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maohaihuang
May 14, 2003, 10:31 PM
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Registered: Sep 12, 2002
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I have heard that some heavy weigh international competition
organization requires the belayer to use the Figur 8 in "sport mode".
as show in A in
http://www.cc.nctu.edu.tw/~mclub/meichu/teach/equip/fig8b.jpg
Anyone knows more about it?
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maldaly
May 14, 2003, 10:36 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
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I know that in the late 80's, at a WC comp, and American woman (I think her name was Susan Wilson) was dropped by her "Professional" belayer who was using a Figure 8. She turffed from 50' and broke a leg or ankle.
Mal
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overlord
May 15, 2003, 8:56 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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hehehe, we call that "turbo" and dont even use it at training. its considered the second worst belay, the worst being bare hands :P and it is required for comps????? stupidstupidstupid.
its only pro is that you can feed slack FAST.
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mwbtle
May 16, 2003, 3:59 PM
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Registered: Nov 22, 2002
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I find it kind of hard to believe that it would be required...most gyms I've been to don't let you use an 8 to belay ever. No matter how you rig it.
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teddy
Jul 16, 2003, 9:19 AM
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Registered: Jul 2, 2003
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Now is it just me or is a figure 8 meant to be used for abseiling, i doubt itd be required for comps... maybe a figure 8 in the rope, for climbing........ but usually u use ATCs/Trango's/ etc.
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apollodorus
Jul 16, 2003, 9:57 AM
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The figure-8 is mostly used to twist your old rope into a tiny bundle so you can throw it away easily. You rappel with the 8 at the gym, and the rope becomes a small snarl of coils that is easy to put into a plastic garbage bag.
You can also just feed the old rope into a garbage bag by hand, and not buy the figure-8.
If you already have a figure-8, you can get rid of it here:
www.ebay.com
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redpoint73
Jul 16, 2003, 11:09 AM
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I've heard of this as well. A climber from France told me that it was required for comps there. But I don't know how reliable this information is. I haven't seen mention of it anywhere else.
Any French climbers have some insight?
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rockdganja
Jul 19, 2003, 7:06 AM
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Registered: Jun 2, 2003
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I would like to try a competition with a a figure-8 on the belayer.I think its dangerous.I have not entered yet on a competition with a figure-8 requirement for the belayer. :twisted:
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overlord
Aug 4, 2003, 12:58 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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In reply to: I've heard of this as well. A climber from France told me that it was required for comps there. But I don't know how reliable this information is. I haven't seen mention of it anywhere else. Any French climbers have some insight?
on the WC comp in kranj last year i believe i observed that the belayer DID use a figure8. and i dont mean the knot.
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