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tenn_dawg
May 21, 2003, 10:05 PM
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When I look back on my first days climbing I realize that I was concerned in all of the wrong things. I was asking questions about techniques, gear, different kinds of climbing, was 5.7 good, and yes, shoes.
While I was asking these questions I didn't realize that I was missing what was really important about our sport. Climbing is not about shoes, ratings, gear, and hype. What makes it the most incredible sport in the world is our community, our ethics, and our spirit.
I wish that I had been given answers to the questions I wasn't asking. And in my reflections here's just a few of the things I wish I would have been told 5 years ago.
Take a road trip as soon as possible to a climbing destination. Camp at the campsite the most crowded with climbers, sit around the campfire, and listen.
Find the old guys in your area, and listen to everything they have to say. Ignore the young guys with too much to say.
Get experience in all possible facets of climbing. Go trad climbing, sport climbing, top roping, and bouldering. Learn about aid climbing. Get on a multipitch climb as soon as you can safely. The real adventure begins more than one ropelength off the ground.
Climb with as many different partners as you can. You will learn what to do, and what not to do in half the time. You will learn what you respect in a climber, and what you hate as well. Emulate the good, and don't let yourself become that asshole that we all see occasionally.
It is no coincidence that the Best climbers in the world, do the least talking about their accomplishments. Nor is a coincidence that some of the worst talk even if no one is listening.
Become involved in the community. Join your local climbers group. Donate money if you like, but it is far better to participate. Seeing the fruits of your labor, and knowing you have helped make some of the best climbing memories. Don't complain unless you have an alternative. Don't ask for anything until you have contributed.
Karma is real. No matter what anyone says.
Learn all you can about the history and ethics of your area. You should be on a first name basis with some of the old guys who developed the crags. They will be around the campfire. Respect them and their wishes as your own. They were in your shoes at one time, and they can probably still outclimb you.
Don't buy a Drill or a Bolt for at least 5 years, and even then you had better be on a first name basis with all of the old guys around the campfire. Don't be that asshole that we all see occasionally. If you want a first ascent before 5 years, make a trad ascent, it will mean more to you later. Trust me.
Never belittle someone for climbing in the fashion they love.
Find your own personal ethics early, and stand behind them. Always strive for a higher ethical standard, never let yourself be pulled down. Don't hesitate to argue your ethics around that campfire.
Do everything you can to help other climbers. They are your family while you pursue this sport, and this family can seem suprisingly small at times. Karma is real.
Don't trespass. If the area is worth climbing, rest assured that a climber somewhere is working his ass off trying to get it reopened. By jumping that fence you are damning our cause. Always be part of the solution, not part of the problem.
Enjoy every second of being outdoors doing something you love. You may very well be having the best time of your life. Share the experience with as many people as you can. Give as much as you receive.
And don't be that asshole...
Haha
Travis
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hopper
May 21, 2003, 11:02 PM
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Wow
Thanks dude
As a beginner myself, this gives me a good starting point.
Unfortunately, I'm currently "transportationally disadvantaged", and there isn't really anywhere around here (near Syracuse, NY) to climb.
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zmehl
May 21, 2003, 11:06 PM
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That is one of the best threads I have ever read on this site!
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neomagi
May 21, 2003, 11:08 PM
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good stuff...
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tenn_dawg
May 21, 2003, 11:23 PM
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Thanks guys, I'm kind of proud of that post.
I'd be honored if any of the old guys from this site had something to add!
Jgill, bvb, curt, elcapbuzz (well not quite old), brutusofwide, base104, Karlbaba.... and countless others. What do you guys think?
Travis
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jt512
May 21, 2003, 11:44 PM
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In reply to: Thanks guys, I'm kind of proud of that post. I'd be honored if any of the old guys from this site had something to add! Jgill, bvb, curt, elcapbuzz (well not quite old), brutusofwide, base104, Karlbaba.... and countless others. What do you guys think? Travis
I think you shouldn't call them "old."
-Jay
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vegastradguy
May 21, 2003, 11:50 PM
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outstanding...nice job tenn_dawg. thanks.
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tenn_dawg
May 21, 2003, 11:56 PM
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Crap. Jay, I forgot to include you on the list.
And believe me, the term old is in comparison to us youngsters who've got lots to learn, and is used with the upmost respect.
I should have classified them better. Look for the guys at the campfire drinking non-light beer and disgussing something besides their current "sick project yo". If they're holding an Olde English listen especially closely.
Listen for the terms goldline, first ascent, 19seventy something, voltswagon bus, and "young punks". These are dead give aways.
Mabey this will help a little. Ha.
Travis
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curt
May 22, 2003, 12:08 AM
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Jay,
Thanks for not thinking I should be called old. I prefer "chronologically advanced" hehehe.
Travis,
Great post. It reminds me in some respects to a post about the "mentoring" method of learning to climb. I certainly benefitted from learning the trade from Gill, Stannard, and others from that generation.
Although I am not antisocial, I do tend to climb with the same people I have known for years--out of habit I guess. So, I was quite pleased when a young couple of guys from the local gym asked me to give them some crack climbing instruction. It was fun, and made me feel like I could sort of close the loop, and pass on some of what I learned many years ago.
So, don't be afraid to look up your local "old fart" and ask for his/her help. Most, I bet, will be more than happy to help you out.
Curt
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lilred
May 22, 2003, 12:19 AM
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d :o
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bvb
May 22, 2003, 12:24 AM
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Trav, I'm on my way out the door so I can't respond at length right now...but what you wrote sort of transported me back to late in 1972...
Let me digest a bit. When I get a moment, I'd like to relate some of the stuff that I experienced in my first 24 months of climbing...easily the most important (and dangerous) 24 months of my life!
Bob
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coldclimb
May 22, 2003, 12:38 AM
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Very good post! Hopefully this gets seen by a lot of people, and sinks in good.
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brutusofwyde
May 22, 2003, 12:46 AM
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In reply to: I think you shouldn't call them "old."
Yup. "Ancient" is closer to the mark.
Good post, Tenn Dawg!
Brutus
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mutant
May 22, 2003, 1:32 AM
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Travis,
That was a very inspiring post. Seems you have really found the basic essentials that make you happy in climbing.
Mutant
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jgill
May 22, 2003, 2:41 AM
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Great post, Travis! You have done a really good job. Hey, I don't mind being called old! 66 is getting up there, and I kind of like the distinction of being the oldest climber on this site (I guess I am?). Only thing I might add is to read a bit of the literature - not just the latest climbing mags. Read books and journals that go back in time to get a feeling for the historical development of the sport. Read about Mummery and his landmark ascent of the Grepon in 1881, and how that changed the complexion of rock climbing in the Alps. Read about Whymper and Fred Beckey ( they weren't contemporaries!) Read about the gold medal ascents of the north walls by the Germans prior to WW2. Read about Royal Robbins and his climbing mates and how they opened up the great walls of Yosemite. Read about Miriam Underhill and her all-female ascents in the Alps in the 1920s. There's a huge amount of historical literature out there having very little to do with the latest 5.14, but having a great deal to do with the evolution to the current standards. 8)
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gymclimbfreak
May 22, 2003, 2:55 AM
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Wow!! That was a totally awesome post. I'm copying that and putting it with other things i need to save about rock climbing. It was truly an awesome post. Being relatively new to the sport ( less than 1 year) I haven't made the road trips or sat around the campfire, although hopefully in June I will get the chance. To all the "Chronologically Challenged" out there; THANK YOU I plan on going out and buying those history books, and reading them, and learning from them. To everyone else who knows more and has more experience than me that has given me advice, thank you too. I think sometimes we don't always give credit where and when credit is due.
Tim
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dingus
May 22, 2003, 3:51 AM
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Tenndawg,
I wish I'd written that. Outstanding.
DMT
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lawdog
May 22, 2003, 2:28 PM
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Thanks Tenn_Dawg, I think many people loose track of what sports like this are really about. We need more posts like that one 8)
LawDog
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wideguy
May 22, 2003, 3:05 PM
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Nice post. I'm sure alot of what you wrote would serve well in just about every facet of our lives or with any new endeavor. Just recently asked my wife's grandfather about his time in WWII, he was in the first platoon to enter Dachau... a whole new perspective.
Great job. Now I needs to find me a campfire.
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jbird
May 22, 2003, 3:26 PM
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I agree with all.
Great post Tenn.
Too many times the youngest climber is the group is doing the most talking.
Technology has improved and is can really assist but it's the old-timers that built the platform we go off of.
My gram went through the depression. I love hearing her tell stories about WWII. Things like Hitler, JFK, and vietnam are "recent" to her. Her father even fought in WWI.
For her generation the Civil War was like WWI and even WWII for todays generation.
Much respect given to the old-timers.
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miker
May 22, 2003, 3:35 PM
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Excellent post, all true and I try to live up to all the ideals discussed.
miker
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hugepedro
May 22, 2003, 3:44 PM
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Nicely done, Travis.
I'll add two more to your list of do's.
Get your hands on every copy of "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" that you can. Study them.
Learn about the broader context of climbing. Read "Freedom of the Hills" cover to cover.
Cheers,
Peter
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crankenstein
May 22, 2003, 3:47 PM
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A truly great post. I especially like the part about sharing the experience..., and not being the asshole..., and take a road trip... I've tried to live by many of these 'rules' for many years but I know that I have room for improvement also. I also agree with John Gill about reading the history of climbing and learning everything you can about this sport/life style that we all love. Good work!
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vertical_reality
May 22, 2003, 3:52 PM
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Finally a real post for beginners!!!!! Being around "experienced" climbers does so much more for your climbing then anything else. Listen to them and respect them, it'll make your climbing journey that much better!
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dingus
May 22, 2003, 4:10 PM
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Not sure if anyone is interested, but here is a link to a short story (the short part is subject to debate) I wrote along the lines of this topic.
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&th=991af79ea3d2c8e6&rnum=44
Whudaya think?
Cheers,
DMT
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