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cabrihan56
Jun 13, 2003, 7:11 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2001
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Salve ! I just have a question about ice screws.How much do they resist in a serius fall in Kn....10Kn...20Kn..? Cristian
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crag
Jun 13, 2003, 7:33 PM
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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Depends.
Depends on how the screw was placed, (angle), the quality of the ice, etc. etc. What is the actual hanger rated for in a static or dynamic pull test I don't know, but I don't see how those figures relate to a real world situation. However most of BD stuff has a CE rating @ 10kN, (2248lbs.)
Sorry if this is something you all ready knew.
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dead_milkman
Jun 13, 2003, 8:06 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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In reply to: [..] However most of BD stuff has a CE rating @ 10kN, (2248lbs.)
Only the hanger is rated, IIRC.
But... In good, dry ice a well-placed screw will often tend to fail at the hanger.
Consult "Climbing Ice" for a more detailed discussion of screw placement and relative strength.
DM
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scottharms
Jun 13, 2003, 8:26 PM
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Registered: Dec 11, 2002
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Check out black diamonds website, if I remember correctly I was able to find info on screw strengths. I've read that a 22cm screw in solid ice, placed 10-15 degrees of angle down is stronger than a bolt in rock. Surf some company websites you should be able to come up with something.
Cheers
Also, on a side note the BD 10cm screw is 10kn not ce approved but all their larger screws are ce approved and I believe vary all the way up to a strength of 20kn in the 22cm screw
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