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nrudowski
Dec 19, 2001, 5:55 PM
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Registered: Aug 18, 2001
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For horizontal cracks, is there anything that can be used other than cams or tri-cams? I know that if the crack tapers, two nuts can be set up opposed to each other, but what if the crack is relatively uniform?
Thanks
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graniteboy
Dec 19, 2001, 6:41 PM
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Registered: Dec 1, 2001
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In the order of preference;
1)Cams
2) TCUs or Nuts
3) The Old fashioned Piton (this can jump to Preference #1 if it's snowing and the rock is glazed with ice).
4) A pounded in Ice screw or warthog.
5)Little sticks, collected from a packrat midden and tied off with dental floss or your girlfriend's thong.
6) Bubblegum with a duct tape sling.
7) A MacDonald's star wars happy meal toy, slung with french fries and held in place with ketchup.
[ This Message was edited by: graniteboy on 2001-12-19 10:43 ]
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paulc
Dec 19, 2001, 8:42 PM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2001
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I would add Tri-cams first and they probably slung hexes (assuming no sharp edges) If you fall on any kind of wired pro on a horiz. crack you will kink the wires.
This goes for nuts, cams, wired hexes. Personally I don't like replacing cams so I would try to avoid that if you can as if the cam gets its wires kinked you have to un-kink them in order to get it to trigger properly and then you can get wires breaking and so on.
If you use 2 nuts in opposition be sure you know how to construct a multi-directional anchor, ie: don't use an American Triangle.
Paul
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nrudowski
Dec 20, 2001, 4:43 PM
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Registered: Aug 18, 2001
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Gunks style... Would that be threading a loop of webbing through the eye on the shaft of the cam to lessen the amount of leverage on the piece of protection? Also, duh... I'm sorry, I completely for got about hexes. SO I suppose my question has been answered. Thanks all!
NRUDOWSKI
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wandt
Dec 20, 2001, 6:04 PM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2000
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I like hexes. Longer flat side facing up. Then the smaller side acts as a fulcrum and when it is weighted, like a cam, it gets more secure. (If set properly.)
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beyond_gravity
Jan 14, 2002, 2:18 AM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2002
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Hexs, Cams, Tri-cams, Pitons, why dont you just say everything but nuts? anyhoo, i dont really think about placing ger on horizontal cracks because most of them are not for very long, and if they are i'll just slot a cam or a hex..unless you mean horizonal, as in roof, then your stuck with cams buddy
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