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bspisak
Jul 24, 2003, 12:15 AM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2002
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I'm new to alpine snow and ice, but want to get out on some classic Sierra couloirs. I'm looking at lightweight leather boots ala LaSportiva Glaciers/Makalu, Kayland Multi-Traction or Lowa Guide. I'd also like to have a pair of crampons that can be used for snowed in approaches for other Sierra rock climbs.
It seems to me a semi-rigid strap-on steel 10 pointer might be the way to go. I'm considering the Grivel G10 (with the classic bindings) or the BD Contact Strap.
I love the Stubai Ultralights since they are so light, but I think steel would be better and more durable for what I have in mind. Going with a 10 point is lighter and better for approach type use, but are they what I need for steep couloirs? And although the boots I'm considering have a heel welt, if I use strap-on bindings, I can wear them on approach shoes as well.
- How important is a 12 pt crampon for moderately steep couloir climbs?
- Will not having a step in binding be problematic on this type of Sierra terrain?
- Any comment on the Grivel vs. the BD?
- For future use, will these serve me in the Tetons or Cascades?
Brian (new to snow and ice)
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trad_mike
Jul 24, 2003, 1:11 AM
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Registered: Jun 25, 2003
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- How important is a 12 pt crampon for moderately steep couloir climbs?
Really important. The G10s are really for bacpackers who might get on a 30 degree snow slope once in a while. With French technique on glacial ice or neve you really want 10 points of contact per foot.
-Will not having a step in binding be problematic on this type of Sierra terrain?
No. Denali and Everest are often climbed with strap bindings. They're a bit of a pain because of having to stop and retighten. Hybrid bindings with strap toes and heel bindings work great on all of the boots you mentioned. I use full toe and heel bindings for waterfall ice and hybrid bindings for glacier travel. Conditions on many routes can range from blue ice to slush. I feel more secure with a heel binding minimum.
- Any comment on the Grivel vs. the BD?
Whatever fits your boot best.
- For future use, will these serve me in the Tetons or Cascades?
I would choose a stiffer boot than the Glacier. Maks will get you through some Cascade climbs, Glaciers probably won't. I find that I need really stiff boots to maintain proper technique. Front pointing or flat footing with mushy boots sucks.
I prefer plastic in the Cascades. It can get cold and wet.
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thegreytradster
Jul 24, 2003, 8:01 PM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2003
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A lightweight sierra setup I really like.
Trango II's, Grivell 2F Neumatics
Advantages, Light, an old man like me can push the boots comfortably to about 5.8 on rock, The crampons are also light, a vert rail 12pt and can be set up hinged for a snow slog or rigid for gullies. The Neumatic , (not Crampomatic) attachment system seems real secure, doesn't impede circulation or require a special toe on the boot, Can be put on and removed one handed.
Disadvantages, Narrow Sportiva last, (your foot might not fit), Short lived boot, (seam seal all the seams before use, glue them together or they will blow out) and it's not the most comfortable hiker. All said I'll trade that to feel secure on the steep.
The 2F's aren't a real high performance on the vertical stuff, but beat the heck out of my antique Salwea strap on setup.
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gideon
Jul 24, 2003, 8:09 PM
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Your future climbing resume holds some cold climbs. Depending apon the season you choose to summit I think you should go with plastic boots. They are less comfortable on the approach however they will keep you drier in the long run. As far as climbing in the boots just make sure that what ever you choose has steel shanks in it for horizontal support while using the front two points of your crampons. This will save you mucho energy for the end of the day.
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raybo
Jul 24, 2003, 9:06 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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I am certainly no expert, but enjoy the type of climbing you mention. I have the Grivel 12 pt crampons with the newmatic binding. I wear them on Makalus or Scarpa Laser AT boots. I think they are a great all around crampon. A friend has the Grivel 10 pt. They worked fine for a snow slog up Mt. Shasta, but I would not feel comfortable climbing an icy couloir in them.
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joegoesup
Aug 11, 2003, 8:31 PM
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I like the Grivel models. The are rock solid when attached to your boots properly.
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verticalturtle
Aug 11, 2003, 8:49 PM
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I can back up what was mentioned about the LaSportiva Trangos. There are several models though make sure you are looking at the right one. If they fir you they are good for approach and great on route. I have an older model and have done many routes in WA, WY, CO, BC, & AB using them (they lead well up to 5.8, WI3+). These will accept the semipneumatic type crampons ( I use Charlet Moser S-12) so they go on fast (almost as fast as full step ins, I think it takes me about 5 seconds longer). Kayland's multitraction is similar as are several by Garmont. What ever you pick make sure it fits well. I did have a pair of Makalus at one time...I don't have anything nice to say about em. They felt clunky compared to the trangos and they are certainly heavier which is something you will want to consider BEFORE you do the 8 mile approach to your route.
VT
PS check uot those CM cramps & think about water i.e. getting your feet wet. Gore-tex breaths only so well - you mostly need protection at the fron where you are kicking into the snow for a few hours - in this the high rand on some boots is a serious advantage. I have never gotten wet in my Trangos.
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sticky_fingers
Aug 11, 2003, 9:27 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2003
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I used the "strap"-ped G10s for a winter ascent on Mt. Washington and they worked fine (just don't forget to file the hell outta them when you buy them and spray silicone on them to prevent rust). My partner and I encounter a guy with step-in bindings who had problems every 20feet or so with them popping off. He said he'd done this mountain (and some 14ers in his crampons) lots of times, which made me think he was rather experienced both in skill and gear. Judging by how many problems he was having with the crampons staying on his boots, I don't think I'll ever get step-ins....
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cjain
Aug 15, 2003, 6:39 PM
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Registered: Jan 28, 2003
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In reply to: I... My partner and I encounter a guy with step-in bindings who had problems every 20feet or so with them popping off. He said he'd done this mountain (and some 14ers in his crampons) lots of times, which made me think he was rather experienced both in skill and gear. Judging by how many problems he was having with the crampons staying on his boots, I don't think I'll ever get step-ins....
Doesn't matter how much experience he had -- it sounds like he was trying a new combination of boots and crampons that just did not work. Properly matched boots and step-in crampons will not have this problem. (That said, newmatic or strap-on crampons will work with a much larger range of boots. )
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chalkbag
Aug 17, 2003, 6:58 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2003
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> - Any comment on the Grivel vs. the BD?
BD tends to make their step-in crampons without a toe-strap, which just makes no sense to me, toe-strap is a piece of safety I can see no reason to leave out. Interestingly, they do put them on when selling their crampons in Europe, apparently, nobody would buy a step-in without a toe-strap there...
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skiorclimb
Aug 17, 2003, 7:19 AM
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Registered: Apr 16, 2003
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I only have experience in ski mountaineering. My experience with strap-on crampons is they need constant tightening. I plan on using g-10's next season for this reason. Also someone mentioned front points being used past 30 degrees, my experience is that french technique will get you as steep as 45 degrees on hard snow/boiler plate.
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cjain
Aug 18, 2003, 11:35 PM
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Registered: Jan 28, 2003
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In reply to: > - Any comment on the Grivel vs. the BD? BD tends to make their step-in crampons without a toe-strap, which just makes no sense to me, toe-strap is a piece of safety I can see no reason to leave out. Interestingly, they do put them on when selling their crampons in Europe, apparently, nobody would buy a step-in without a toe-strap there...
Agreed. I wouldn't even consider a step-in crampon without a toe-strap.
Most of the time (all of the time?) when a step-in crampon pops off, it is due to user error, either in not fastening it securely or in using it with improper boots. I've had a crampon pop on me for both reasons and I've also seen this happen to other people. And when it does, the strap makes a big difference.
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hallm
Aug 18, 2003, 11:40 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2002
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I use the Chalet Moser BlackIce Rapid Fix (i.e., without a toe strap, only a bail) crampons on La Sportiva Nepal Extremes for alpine and have not had a problem with them popping off.
Just my experience.
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