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wc
Jul 25, 2003, 8:45 PM
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So far I have been to Black Mountain and have the impression that it is completely untapped and has a lifetime of good bouldering. However, I am interested in scoping out other areas that are cool in the summer. If you have any suggestions please let me know. Also, if you are going out let me know, it would be nice to have some partners.
Thanks
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fredbob
Jul 25, 2003, 9:50 PM
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There are lots of areas for Summer climbing in So Cal:
Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks (near Black Mt, trad climbing);
County Park (Idyllwild, bouldering);
South Ridge (Idyllwild, bouldering)
Bouldering atop Palms Springs Tram;
Lots of various crags in and about Big Bear area (there is a San Bernadino Mt area guide, both sport and trad and bouldering);
Frustration Creek (sport area);
Williamson Rock (Sport climbing central for So Cal, Dogs OK);
Horse Flats (bouldering near Williamson);
There are other spots, but this should keep you more than busy.
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bvb
Jul 30, 2003, 3:27 AM
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oh yeah wes, i'm also gonna make you do "big electric cat" and "the south ridge arete", after you tick caliente. mike paul has agreed to tag along and help me feed you really bad beta. and if you use pads, were gonna laugh at you and stuff.
right now, we're searching gallencamp's warehouse backlogs for a pair of "scats" your size. much better than those muria's you wear.
of course, duecy will be along to capture the whole debacle on video....
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cracksniffer
Jul 30, 2003, 5:13 PM
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rrradam:
"Not a large destination, but worthy of a visit is Pirate's Cove in Newport Beach... VB-V9ish I think. About 70 problems, just be sure to go after 5PM."
"VB"? I get it! Does that stand for "Butter"? Makes sense because that's what the holds can feel like at times in the summer. How cool that ratings are finally taking such factors into consideration!
Still a great place to play around though.
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lox
Jul 30, 2003, 6:24 PM
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Registered: Oct 2, 2002
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Whats really funny is... with your jaw like that, you look like niceporch.
hahahahahahahaha
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cass
Jul 30, 2003, 7:00 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2001
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tut tut...don't insult porchie!
:lol:
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fredbob
Jul 30, 2003, 7:27 PM
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In reply to: Not a large destination, but worthy of a visit is Pirate's Cove in Newport Beach... VB-V9ish I think. About 70 problems, just be sure to go after 5PM.
Ha! The Beach! (Don't call it Pirate's Cove). Actually summer in late afternoon can be OK at The Beach if the humidity is VERY low (which it definitely isn't right now). Otherwise, plan on using about 1.65 blocks of chalk per hour to degrease the holds. Bring a series of brushes to clean the sand off all the holds and watch for used diapers at the base. The
Po-Lice like to hassle you sometimes too.
I cut my teeth (or was it my finger?) at this spot and though I now live within 10 minutes I haven't bothered to go here for years. Maybe that says it all. The problems are some of the most fun, imaginative and wild when conditions are perfect, but that only happens when it has rained followed by 2 days of Santa Ana winds.
And there are more than 70 problems, but many have faded into obscurity, become so dirty and vile to defy comprehension, or have simply fallen off. Just don't call it "Pirates Cove."
P.S.
At least one young "climber" has been killed free soloing here (long before any magazine coverage.) Now who do we blame that one on?
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cass
Jul 31, 2003, 11:34 AM
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Registered: May 5, 2001
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lol
shhhh…you’ve just given them anotehr word to censor!
heheh
edit:
well what u know, Lox's posts got deleted
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bvb
Jul 31, 2003, 4:22 PM
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DOHT!!!
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jetman_jake
Aug 1, 2003, 1:49 PM
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I went out to see my girlfriend in SoCal a couple weeks ago and managed to swing by J-Tree and The Beach, since that's where we were going swimming anyway. We had to wait until the beach cleared out of all of the daily swimmers and famlies, but then there was definately some climbing to be had. Everything was dirty and greasy, but some of the problems were still pretty sweet. I odn't know if I'd make a special trip for the place, but it's a nice area to play in after a day of bodyboarding.
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rrrADAM
Aug 1, 2003, 3:24 PM
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That's why I said go after 5... Sometimes you even have to wait until 6ish. There's a lot of "muchachas y muchachos" there eh ???
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bobtheboulderer
Aug 1, 2003, 9:16 PM
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Registered: Mar 26, 2002
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I have heard great things about Pine Mountain. The pics I've seen from there are awesome. I plan on checking it out when I head out to CA next time. I think the altitude helps keep it cool in the summer.
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wc
Aug 1, 2003, 10:47 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2003
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Where is this place? I guess the picture looked better than it actually is. I don't care, I have been on many BG exploratory missions :roll: and this can't bee much worse.
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fredbob
Aug 1, 2003, 11:06 PM
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In reply to: The problems are some of the most fun, imaginative and wild when conditions are perfect...
Take the 405 Fwy to McArthur Blvd (Orange County Airport). Head southwest on McArthur until it ends at Pacific Coast Hwy (PCH). Turn left (south) on PCH to Marguerite (a signal about 1/4 mile). Turn right on Marguerite (west); go 2 blocks to where it ends at Ocean. Turn left on Ocean (north), drive past the entrance to the parking area for Corona Del Mar Beach and park along Ocean near near here (it makes a sharp right).
A small grassy park area is located on the ocean side of the bluff top; The Beach lies in the rocky cove directly below. Steps lead down. I will see if I can add a scan of an old route topo for you.
Have fun.
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jetman_jake
Aug 5, 2003, 3:50 AM
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Si, y muchos chicos and chicas. The diaper warning is not without merit either. Regardless, it can be a pretty good time, especially when paired with some swimming and boarding. Be sure to stay for the sunset.
~j
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anntadabug
Aug 10, 2003, 8:41 PM
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Registered: Aug 10, 2003
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Pine Mountain is fabulous! I am not sure if I know the number of times that I have been there since May. I have also been to Black. They are both choice areas. You should pick up the Oceans 11 bouldering guide for Santa Barbara, it is great.
As far as partners go, I am out in KY climbing at the Red until the 20th of August. After that I am always open to going to Pine, I have lots of projects out there.
Ann Taylor
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innergee
Aug 26, 2003, 5:28 AM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2003
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just got back from pine mtn. phenomenal bouldering and an epic vibe.sant barbara has some killer sandstone as well. bagged second ascent of whiplash at pine mtn. that problem is not to be missed!
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