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boesgaard
Jul 31, 2003, 12:13 PM
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Registered: Jul 4, 2002
Posts: 66
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I'd like to dome some training, where I dont need a belayer. My idea was to build a circular route on our overhanging boulderwall, and do - well - circles on it. Does anybody have experience with this kind of training? Ideas to spice it up? Ideas to make it more effective? I was planning to make some kind of training-schedule, where I could do this thing in the morning everyday, before work. I would continue on doing my normal climbing (which is just climbing for fun three days a week, mostly bouldering - working on new moves and projects). What do you think? brgds Thomas
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fcorl
Jul 31, 2003, 2:18 PM
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Registered: Jul 10, 2003
Posts: 40
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Another great way to build power endurance is to get on steep, easy bouldering problems and lap them. I do 4X4's at the end of a bouldering session. Pick 4 problems that are all different but fairly easy. Pick problems that you have wired. At the end you want to fall off because of fatigue, not the inability to make the move because of technique. If you are a V5-6 boulderer start on V2-3. Probably V2's for the first week or two. Then do the problem 4 times in a row without any rest. If you finish all four then you need to climb a harder problem. If you fall off on the fourth try then it is perfect. After you do 4 reps rest for 3-5 minutes? Repeat this four times. After I finish this I work on my core strength with different types of sit up/yoga stuff and do some dips/pushups to work my triceps. Don't do this every day though! You need at least one good rest day in-between workouts so you muscles heal. Just rest and get some protein in your system right after you finish bouldering to aid in the recovery.
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overlord
Aug 8, 2003, 9:46 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
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i like to do circles. just create a not to difficult circular problem and go for it. those things are really interesting. and you get to downclimb.
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