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theostudent
Jan 30, 2002, 2:14 AM
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Registered: Jan 13, 2002
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The reason why I am posting this is to see if anybody knows the signs of pushing yourself too hard. I am kind of a beginner. I have been climbing for 5 months now, but have started to put in a lot of climbing hours. I just put in 5 hrs. last Saturday for example. My forearms, when I stretch them, feel like I just bruised my side of forearm, or am experiencing a hairline fracture. Obviously this is not good, but does anyone have any suggestions on how to treat injuries to the hands, forearms, and warning signs to look out for?
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amethyst
Jan 30, 2002, 2:30 AM
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Registered: Jun 18, 2001
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If you broke something you'll know about it - or you've been smoking too much of your cereal.
I can only say from personal experience that as you get stronger and climb more often the injuries kind of dissapate UNLESS you do something stupid. It is kinda like you body builds a resistance!!! Or maybe I have inhaled too much chalk.
Oh dear. Maybe someone who has a clue should be posting here!
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jt512
Jan 30, 2002, 2:52 AM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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Well, I'm basically the poster-child for overtraining, so maybe you can learn from my mistakes.
The first rule is, "When in doubt, rest." The reason for this is that the symptoms of overtraining are subtle (until it is too late). If you even slightly suspect that you have been overtraining, then you probably have been. Take time off. Rest.
The second rule: "Never weight your fingers more than four days a week." Keep in mind that this does not mean that it is necessarily ok to weight your fingers four days a week; it just means that it is definitely wrong to exceed this limit. If your fingers are sore after two climbing/training sessions a week, take time off. Rest.
Rule three: Stretch the forearms before and after climbing, and on your rest days. Do a search. I recently posted descriptions of the specific stretches and why they should be considered mandatory.
Rule four: Don't climb (or train the climbing muscles) more than two days in row. You can occasionally make exceptions to this rule for road trips, but break it regularly, and you will quickly get injured.
Rule five: Remember that gym climbing is more stressful than outdoor climbing. Most pulled tendons occur in the gym.
Rule six: If it hurts, stop, and don't climb again until it stops hurting. Heeding this rule at the first sign of pain can head off a major injury and the resulting major time off from climbing.
Rule seven: Vary your climbing/training. If you keep getting on the same type of routes or boulder problems day in and out for weeks on end, you are more likely to develop an overuse injury than if you mix it up a bit.
-Jay
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kunzie
Jun 13, 2002, 9:17 AM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2001
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You know you're training too hard when the people at your gym start preparing your bed on a portaledge on their wall.
No, seriously, it's too much when it hurts, and use RICE (rest, ice, compression, elevation) if you have post-training pains.
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micahmcguire
Jun 14, 2002, 5:16 AM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2002
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a very common forearm injury among climbers is a strained pronator teres. This is a little band of muscle which starts up just distal to your elbow joint and wraps diagonally down the interior of your forearm to a spot proximal of the wrist. I have had to deal with this injury before. Basic treatment includes light physical therapy (resistance therapy with an elastic band) and lots of ice on the area of the injury. Dunno, but this might be what is bugging your arm.
[ This Message was edited by: micahmcguire on 2002-06-13 23:54 ]
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