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jdean
Jan 31, 2002, 5:16 PM
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Here's what happened to me: The first time I ever climbed outside, I TR'd a 5.9. I struggled with it the first time, but sent it on about the 3rd or 4th try. My problem was not that I wasn't strong enough, but that I was nervous, which caused me to not think about the climb and my technique and made me overgrip everything. This of course led me to pump out really quickly. Well, right then, I decided to work on my endurance, so I went back to the climbing gym that I frequent and got on our 40'lead roof (people speculate it's somewhere around a 5.10c or d just because of the pump factor). I told myself that when I redpointed that, I would be ready to lead outside. All of this ocurred about 2 or 3 months ago. I redpointed our lead roof about a month ago and did my first outside lead this past Sunday. It was a nice little 5.7 which is a classic first lead for the majority of the climbers in the area which I onsighted and repeated. My point is, that a). you have to be physically prepared of course, but even more so mentally and b). work on your lead technique in a safe controlled environment like a gym. If I were to have to evaluate where you stand just by what you told me, I would say "Go for it, you are definitely ready", but I don't know what your mental state as a lead climber is. In the end, you have to decide whether you are ready or not. Did that make any sense or did it sound like I was just rambling? I hoped it helped.
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maculated
Jan 31, 2002, 8:57 AM
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
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I'm itching to try some lead climbing, and I can on-sight 5.9 top ropes with no problem. There are a couple 5.7 and 5.6 sport routes available to me and I have quickdraws which I've been practicing with.
So, I had an interesting conversation with someone a few days ago who's been climbing a bit longer than me and has seen me climb. This guy, who has been with me on my last couple stints out, told me that he doesn't think I'm ready to be lead climbing because I should "not expect to fall, ever" on the rock.
I'm very comfortable with 5.9 climbs with NO falls, but him telling me this has got me wondering whether I should be waiting to lead climb until I'm in the 5.10a/b range, at least, or if he's just full of it.
I'd like to know your opinions on this, as I'm going about this self-taught as much as possible(with the help of experienced climbers such as yourself, Mountaineering: Freedom, etc).
Thanks!
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wigglestick
Jan 31, 2002, 5:29 PM
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If that guy is saying that you should never fall outdoors than he is full of it. Especially on sport routes. If you ain't flyin' than you ain't trying. Have you tried leading indoors yet? I would say that would be your next step. You can do super easy routes while you learn to clip properly (i.e. not backclipping or z-clipping) and then get used to taking leader falls in a more controlled atmosphere. Then make the jump to outdoor sport climbs.
[edit] Now that i re-read your post I notice that you may not be talking about tr'ing in a gym and are actually talking about doing it outside. How refreshing. You could always "mock" lead a route by being belayed on tr and clipping bolts at the same time to practice and get comfortable. But it is still ok to fall on outdoor sport routes. [/edit]
[ This Message was edited by: wigglestick on 2002-01-31 09:35 ]
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froggy
Jan 31, 2002, 5:33 PM
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I had been climbing for about 8 months before I jumped on my first sport lead. I was onsiting most 10a's and b's in the gym and 9's and some 10's outside (on top rope) My first two sport leads were a 5.6 and 5.7. I had no fear at all because I was so 'in the zone' that I did not really realize what was going on. Since I was so impressed with that cool feeling and the no fear and peace of mind I was capable of I decided to jump on a 5.10b and had to take once but completed it. Anyways to try and make a longer story shorter the next time I went out I jumped on a long 5.9 and was still 'in the zone' but was quickly taken out of the zone when I realized that every bolt was slightly out of reach on the crux sections making it so I would have to make a move before clipping - Scared Shitless - gave me that first REALITY glimpse and now I have been a lot more timid, but building confidence slowly.
My advise is to take it slow and build lots o' confidence so when you get in those positions - which will happen - you can calm yourself down
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camhead
Jan 31, 2002, 6:54 PM
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You are going to have to learn to fall some time, may as well get it over with. If you have no problem with 5.9, you should start leading on 7s and 8s right away. I am assuming that all these are sport routes.
cheers!
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maculated
Jan 31, 2002, 8:00 PM
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
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Sport routes and outside. Thanks a million, guys!
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jt512
Jan 31, 2002, 8:05 PM
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Your friend who says you should never fall outside is full of it. When you are pushing your limit, falling is ok when the fall is "safe." You can't just fall willy-nilly on every route, but if you're not sure if you can do the move or not and the fall looks "clean" and the pro good, go for it.
-Jay
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climber1
Jan 31, 2002, 9:07 PM
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leading is a whole different ball game. there is much more to think about. do a practice lead on a slack top rope first. that's how most schools teach leading. also, if you want to lead trad, you must know how to place gear.
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bigevilgrape
Jan 31, 2002, 9:09 PM
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I have always been a scidish climber, so i didn't start leading for quite some time. When i did my first lead it was in the gym on a 5.6, well within my ability. To lead at our gym you have to take a test, so I lied to the guy and told him that I had been leading over the summer. I knew exactly what I was doing because I had been climbing for so long. I liked starting leading in a gym becase it is so safe, its boulted every five feet and the draws are already in place. The best part was the hold at the top of the route, that i needed to clip the ancohrs off of, was on a strped bolt so it spun a few inches till it hit another hold. it scared the living day light out of me
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jds100
Jan 31, 2002, 9:23 PM
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Registered: Aug 5, 2001
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Adding my voice to those who've said that falling is part of getting better. The saying that a "leader must not fall" is from early 20th century Europe, I believe, when ropes were made of plant fiber, and could not be counted on at all to stop a falling climber. And, when the belay of practice was a hip belay.
I've fallen on trad gear, and I've fallen on bolts; part of leading is evaluating the risks of a fall at any given point, and also knowing your own capabilities. If you don't try routes that are at or a little beyond what you think your limit might be (and, right now, it might be leading 5.7), then you can never get an accurate picture of what your limits really are.
Try to climb with people who are supportive of you and encourage you.
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hendicrimpin
Jan 31, 2002, 9:43 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2001
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if you have good(safe!) gear, a belayer you trust, the skill on toprope, and good bolt placement .....than go for it! you have to first experience the fear before you ever get over it. climb on.
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maculated
Feb 3, 2002, 10:15 PM
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
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Just thought I'd update you and tell you that I did my first successful lead climb this weekend. It was somewhat out of neccessity (no ascents to anchors to just top rope, and I was the most confident in my abilities), but I pulled it off safely and successfully. Thank you for your support!
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