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shortfatoldguy
Aug 30, 2003, 2:12 PM
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I'm getting to the point at which my lack of good hip turnout is holding me back on face climbs. For several months last year, I was ending my weight workouts (3/week) with two-three minutes on one of those groin stretcher machines--where you sit up and dial your legs out to the sides. But after several months of doing this, I'd made little progress.
I understand flexibility is largely genetic, but I'm wondering if anybody has advice for me, about other stretches or about the principles of stretching.
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daryl314
Aug 30, 2003, 2:53 PM
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Would a groin stretching machine really do anything for hip turnout? I have reasonable groin flexibility myself, and essentially zero hip turnout. Something tells me that it might be a tendon issue (i also have very tight tendons in my hands as my fingers do not bend backwards at all) and that there is nothing that can be done about it. Anyone else have experience with this?
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norskagent
Aug 30, 2003, 3:35 PM
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turn (drop) your knee more than you think necessary...reaching up and left, drop left knee and vice versa.
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jipstyle
Aug 30, 2003, 3:44 PM
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Drop knees are great, but can sometimes push you away from the rock on absolutely vertical / slightly less than vertical terrain. Hip-turn-out is important for face climbing, in my opinion ... and yoga has been the best way for me to increase my flexibility. It is much better than using a machine, and has the added bonus of providing more strength and flexibility for your entire body.
Oh ... and the classes tend to be 90/10 women / men ... which is nice. ;)
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coldclimb
Aug 30, 2003, 5:54 PM
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Moved to Technique and Training. :)
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naitch
Aug 30, 2003, 7:01 PM
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Can someone point me to a picture of what you mean by hip turnout?
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jansuw
Aug 30, 2003, 7:32 PM
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It might not just be the flexibility of your inner groin but the strength and flexibility of the tensor that opens up your legs. Its kind of on the side of your butt! It always seems to be tense or sore after a hard day of climbing for me, and its also the weakest muscle in my extremely weak legs. :oops:
There are stretches and exercises for them. A lot of people just don't exercise it as it's one of those muscles that support and guide the quads and hamstrings, or something. Don't take this as fact though, cause I'm no doctor or physiotherapist. :roll:
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shortfatoldguy
Aug 30, 2003, 8:18 PM
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In reply to: It might not just be the flexibility of your inner groin but the strength and flexibility of the tensor that opens up your legs.
Maybe I'll just have to get a lot stronger to compensate for my lack of flexibility.
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jansuw
Aug 30, 2003, 8:28 PM
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The little progress might just have to do with you trying it a lot and your body getting more used to the movement. When I do that innergroin thingie at the gym, I have problems pushing my legs wide enough to actually make the exercise cover the whole range. When I do this, the small muscle that opens the legs hurts, or kind of stings for a bit while I strain my legs open. I honestly think you should try working out the opposing muscle of the abductor, i think its the adductor, if i even have the first name right. Your gym should have one... just try it once! If its hard then that might be your problem. People usually think that the only muscles they need to train are their forearms and upper body but most of the body positions utilise your core and legs. You cant get into the high grades if you have weaknesses in your body, thats why I'm spending this winter at the gym instead of the cave! :?
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bluesky
Aug 30, 2003, 9:31 PM
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As for all advice - take it with a grain of salt - and listen to your own body.
For my hip turnout I do three stretches and I wholly recommend yoga -- for all stretches hold for at least 20-30 seconds if not longer and BREATHE:
1) The standard 'butterfly stretch' -- While seated put the soles of feet together with heels perhaps a few inches to a foot depedning on your flexiblity -- and stretch to get your knees near the floor. After you stay in this stretch for a while try to bring your heels a little further in without letting your knees raise.
2) A sort of 'frog pose' -- lay on your stomach on a soft surface (carpet, crash pad) -- put your knees bent a little less than 90 degrees out to the sides. Your behind will be further up in the air depending on your flexibility. Slowly let your body weight (or someone can help push if you are comfortable with the stretch) bring your hips closer to the ground and open your hips joints. Careful, on this one it's more intense than it might even feel at first.
3) A modified 'Pigeon Pose' -- Hard to describe - see this page http://www.yogabasics.com/asana/postures/pigeon.html and use the modified version A - basically laying forward on the leg - you may need to use your arms or a prop as you lay forward on your leg - Breathe!
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drkodos
Aug 30, 2003, 11:19 PM
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Experment with different positions while carrot waxing.
Aim for self flagellation, as this type of hip movement may transfer well to steep sport climbs.
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styndall
Aug 31, 2003, 3:18 AM
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Open up a starbucks. That should really draw in the hipper cell-phone set.
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overlord
Aug 31, 2003, 7:17 AM
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do all tipes of hip stretching. groin stretching is only one of them. you also have to stretch like you were doing a womans split (one leg in front of you, the other behind your back).
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shortfatoldguy
Aug 31, 2003, 12:43 PM
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styndall, go fall off and bruise your knee.
:)
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charley
Aug 31, 2003, 6:39 PM
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Warm up by walking,biking, or something. Do the butterfly stretch^. Then what I have found to be a good stretch is to get your butt real close to the wall while on your back with feet and legs in the air against the wall. stretch or open your legs as wide as you can. Shoulders and back are flat on the ground. Let the weight of your feet and legs pull you even more open. Careful you don't hurt anything.
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