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tonydevo
Oct 30, 2003, 11:16 PM
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Well, almost flashed it. Read the little 8a.nu blurb.
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fiend
Oct 30, 2003, 11:59 PM
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Someone needs to do that little 17 foot high wonder sans cord so that the bolts can be chopped on it.
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revegentil
Oct 31, 2003, 12:14 AM
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hes pretty darn awesome. he can probobly climb a water fall (not frozen) hah
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fiend
Oct 31, 2003, 12:15 AM
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Waterfall climbing is a sport already.... I think the Japanese started it?
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caughtinside
Oct 31, 2003, 12:15 AM
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In reply to: shes pretty darn awesome. he can probobly climb a water fall (not frozen) hah
Yeah. hah.
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fiend
Oct 31, 2003, 12:20 AM
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http://www.action-philippines.com/english/action/riverclimbing.htm
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revegentil
Oct 31, 2003, 12:32 AM
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wow thanks for the pictures. looks like a lot of fun. i was actually refering to climbing water. just being facetious.
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fiend
Oct 31, 2003, 12:40 AM
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Well now, that's just plain silly.
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muncher
Oct 31, 2003, 12:42 AM
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Hard to say what this means really, is Sharma really that good and the route that suited to his strengths that he could almost flash a 14D when nobody has flashed 14B yet or is the route a little overgraded? I guess it would be hard to compare this route to alot of other 14D's as it is very short, pretty much a highball problem or so it seems.
Then again who really cares what grade it is, it looks sick hard and I guess Sharma deserves a pat on the back for sending it so quickly.
Well that is my very educated view from sitting here in Australia having never seen the route or met Sharma so that counts for axactly zero.
As to climbing water falls, what about Dan Osmans effort in one of the Masters of Stone videos.
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climb_plastic
Oct 31, 2003, 8:55 AM
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In reply to: Hard to say what this means really, is Sharma really that good and the route that suited to his strengths that he could almost flash a 14D when nobody has flashed 14B yet or is the route a little overgraded? I guess it would be hard to compare this route to alot of other 14D's as it is very short, pretty much a highball problem or so it seems.
I think you just answered your own question. It's a short route (Sharma is THE Boulderer) and the moves suited his strengths. It doesn't necessarily mean it's overgraded just because he nearly flashed it. It sounds pretty questionable though. It would be interesting to hear what he said about it although he probably wouldn't rate it.
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rkclmbr
Oct 31, 2003, 1:45 PM
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It might as well be a boulder problem, everyone is toproping it!
Sharma stick clipped the last bolt (there are only two), how is that different than top-roping? So did Tony Lamiche who did the 3rd ascent of it.
See climbing.com for the details.
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hippie_dreams
Oct 31, 2003, 2:07 PM
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Actaully, it said that he failed his flash attempt, then after two false starts he sent it.
He's still a god of a climber though.
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stickclipper
Oct 31, 2003, 3:05 PM
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Ok, when Sharma sent this pretty little route, I was busy wanking about 20 yards to the left on another one of Rumney's three star fantastic sport routes. This is what I know about the Fly and his ascent:
The Fly is a painfully obvious line that's about 20 feet long on beautiful, nearly featureless rock. It overhangs about, oh, I'd say 20 degrees. You walk up to the base, put your mits on the starting crimpers, and immediately you're impressed. I've seen very strong climbers, climbing mid-5.13, unable to HANG off of these holds, let alone pull up on them. There is a low tickmark that hardly passes for a foothold. From there, you make a DESPERATE lunge to a micro-sidepull way up there(2-three fingers, slightly sloping?) which makes you barndoor violently, inevitably making your feet cut. At this point, you have shit to hold on to. Most people get no farther than this. I've seen the likes of Jason Kehl (he's very close to sending) fall numerous times on this. It's gotta be V11+, just that one move. The temperatures have to be perfect for this to work - too hot and you're out of there. And the best part: the crux is farther up, on ferociously small and painful (no doubt) crimpers that are not really visible without chalk. I tell you, it's hard.
Now, being at Rumney all the time, I look at people trying to do this (all elite climbers) and obviously, only the chosen few send. Tony Lamiche, a week before Sharma, completed the ascent in about three days, and no doubt looked strong as hell on this climb. I didn't see. But just as I was saying that no matter how strong you are, no one is going to walk up to the Fly and do it, say, in a day...well, Sharma did just that. I think I watched his flash attempt, and he kind of hung around on these viscious holds, playing with body position and such. I looked really solid on the climb, in general, compared to others I'd seen on it. It is SO AMAZING that he was able to do this. Hats off to LAmiche and Sharma for dispatching such a quality route in so short a time.
Oh, and by the way...I've been hoping that someone will do the route as a boulder problem as well. But as Kehl was explaining to me, it cannot quite be classified as a boulder problem, because a) the landing is crippling b) I don't think anyone could commit to doing the upper moves from the ground up, without the security of a rope. So, the bolts stay on! Sharma and Lamiche stickclipped the second bolt - while Graham and Parady only clipped the first from the ground, risking groundfall while clipping the second. Thus, the ascents of Graham and Parady were done in better style, but, to accuse Sharma or Lamiche of not sending would be ludicrous! All four did the climb, which for anyone who has seen the route defies imagination. The boulder/solo ascent awaits...and it's up to the next strongman to do it. And to be sure, if I were to see someone do the Fly sans cord, I would have the utmost respect for that climber's ability to do HARD moves, above a bakcbreaking fall on jagged blocks of gnarly schist. Have at it!
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stickclipper
Oct 31, 2003, 3:43 PM
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chossmonkey
Oct 31, 2003, 4:25 PM
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In reply to: Someone needs to do that little 17 foot high wonder sans cord so that the bolts can be chopped on it.
That's so lame I have to laugh. :lol: Should we chop all the bolts everywhere because someone has the balls or death wish and solos a bolted route? How about filling in all the good gear placements on a trad route because they seem unnecessary to a couple of people. Just because one person is willing to do something in seemingly better style doesn't mean the whole community should do it that way as well. Would it show better style to the people who regulate climbing to have people carried out on stretchers multiple times a day on tax payer money? Bolt choppers need to get a life. I'm all for chopping routes that were retroed by accident or on purpose that were done clean and safely on F.A. after working, or were put up onsight on lead that are dangerous AND the F.A. objects to the bolts. Chopping bolts just because you see them as unnecessary is dumb. Don't clip them if you don't like them. EVER!
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climb_plastic
Oct 31, 2003, 5:40 PM
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If Graham, Lamiche, Parady, and Sharma used a cord then I think you'll be waiting a long time for someone to do it sans cord.
I thought that comment was too ridiculous to respond to but I was just waiting for someone to respond.
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joshy8200
Oct 31, 2003, 6:45 PM
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Umm....Sharma stick clipped the second bolt on the Fly?!?! What the hell? I think that's pretty bad form. Top roping a route isn't even redpointing it....let alone coming close to flashing it!!!
I feel that hyping this ascent of the route is a load of crap. I've seen the route and video of Graham falling trying to get to the second clip. Having to lead the route is as everyone knows part of the challenge. Props to Sharma for being super strong and pulling the moves in a day...BUT SHAME on him for basically top roping it.
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joshy8200
Oct 31, 2003, 6:47 PM
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Shame on Lamiche too for clipping the second bolt too.
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msiddens
Oct 31, 2003, 6:51 PM
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I'm doubting that Sharma really cared what others thought about when he did it. TR, Onsite, Flash, Worked, Solo, etc.....it's still impressive.
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joshy8200
Oct 31, 2003, 6:58 PM
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Impressive yes...but in the words of The Wolf (Pulp Fiction), "Let's not start sucking each others' dicks just yet." The fact is Sharma and Lamiche top roped one of the proposed hardest climbs in the US.
Let's be real. Do you brag about your greatest top rope ascent?
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climb_plastic
Oct 31, 2003, 7:14 PM
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In reply to: I'm doubting that Sharma really cared what others thought...
You're probably right....he didn't care what anyone else thought. He probably just looked at it and said, "I think it would be fun to work that one..I should probably clip the second bolt first." It's a 14d for goodness sakes so he probably thought he was going to work on it a few days. Usually when people work on climbs they top rope them. That's what I would do. If I look at a climb and I think I'm going to fall then why risk it? Just for a try at a flash without clipping....that's dumb. I don't think he's like that.
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joshy8200
Oct 31, 2003, 7:14 PM
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It's not like I'm saying Sharma isn't an awesome guy and climber. From what I hear and have read he seems to be the chillest, down to earth guy out there.
What I am saying is that the style of the ascent matters more to me than the grade. Clip both the bolts on The Fly and pull it in a handfull of tries...gets a geez man that's awesome! But others that have done it in better style get a bigger pat on the back from me.
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edge
Oct 31, 2003, 7:19 PM
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It's a long download, but you can see Lamiche send the fly here:
http://www.petzl.fr/frontoffice/Sport/static/video/fr_high/lamiche_the_fly_F.htm
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joshy8200
Oct 31, 2003, 7:19 PM
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In reply to: You're probably right....he didn't care what anyone else thought. He probably just looked at it and said, "I think it would be fun to work that one..I should probably clip the second bolt first." It's a 14d for goodness sakes so he probably thought he was going to work on it a few days. Usually when people work on climbs they top rope them. That's what I would do. If I look at a climb and I think I'm going to fall then why risk it? Just for a try at a flash without clipping....that's dumb. I don't think he's like that.
What?!?! You don't try to go for the flash or onsight if you think you're going to fall? Come on now, getting onto a route and climbing into the unknown is part of the challenge.
But yes, let's put it in perspective. Sharma has onsighted 14a. I've onsighted 10a. I don't go out with the mentality of top roping anything about 10a before I lead it.
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climb_plastic
Oct 31, 2003, 7:23 PM
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In reply to: Let's be real. Do you brag about your greatest top rope ascent?
If it was a 14d I would. Even if it took me 2 years to do it. Plus I don't think he's bragging about anything. He probably knows people are still going to talk crap about him...and doesn't care.
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