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climb_plastic
Oct 31, 2003, 7:28 PM
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In reply to: What?!?! You don't try to go for the flash or onsight if you think you're going to fall? Come on now, getting onto a route and climbing into the unknown is part of the challenge.
It's case by case. If I look at a climb and think there's a possibility and it doesn't look too dangerous I'd probably go for it. But if Lamiche took 3 days to work on it before me then I'd probably clip in first.
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alwaysforward
Oct 31, 2003, 7:28 PM
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You guys complaining about this are tools. Some dude waltzs up to some route and says "cool but it looks like it's a dangerous fall, I'll stick clip and still HAVE FUN CLIMBING". He happens to send and it happens to be a 9a and you whip out your flamethrowers. The guy who climbed the route didn't even mention it to anybody as far as we know. Please. The style of the ascent...
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lilcapntravis
Oct 31, 2003, 7:34 PM
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amen alwaysforward.
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the_pirate
Oct 31, 2003, 7:38 PM
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Dude, I flashed The Fly years ago. Even got the send home from school for it.
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redpoint73
Oct 31, 2003, 8:13 PM
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In reply to: Someone needs to do that little 17 foot high wonder sans cord so that the bolts can be chopped on it.
Foolish boy. Have you ever even SEEN the route? You need to, and touch the starting holds. I think you would change your mind about the ROUTE completely.
Stickclipper pretty much said it all. If you wanna try to do cordless, feel free. Just don't do it while I'm around. I don't wanna have to help carry you to the ambulance.
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stickclipper
Oct 31, 2003, 8:33 PM
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joshy8200
Oct 31, 2003, 9:20 PM
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Look...I'm just playing some devil's advocate here. I don't need for you dumbasses to point out that I'm flaming Chris Sharma working the moves of a 14d in a day. I am not flaming Sharma.
What I am flaming is the fact that someone lured me in with "Sharma FLASHES 'The Fly'". Then as I read on, I find out it was just 'he almost flashed'. Then I find out that he didn't even lead the route. As you've said no one has even really redpointed it.
So after this I'm done posting on this subject. I may start another that will talk about the point at hand if it hasn't been done before. But, the style of ascent totally matters. It matters whether the route is a 5.15 or a 5.1.
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climb_plastic
Oct 31, 2003, 9:58 PM
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Imagine what kind of discussion we'd be having if Sharma fell and landed on a ledge but didn't weight the rope and continued on from the ledge to complete the climb.
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dlintz
Oct 31, 2003, 10:02 PM
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In reply to: Imagine what kind of discussion we'd be having if Sharma fell and landed on a ledge but didn't weight the rope and continued on from the ledge to complete the climb.
:lol: :lol:
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stickclipper
Oct 31, 2003, 10:09 PM
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Joshy8200:
The point is, the style in which the third and fourth ascensionists used to make the climb is considered valid in the climbing community. Stop acting like you could do better. Oh, and making unrelated comments such as, "I don't need you dumbasses to point out..." only detracts from your point. Stick with the subject, buddy. And go climbing. Style is a personal decision - you make your own rules.
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climb_plastic
Oct 31, 2003, 10:15 PM
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In reply to: Joshy8200: The point is, the style in which the third and fourth ascensionists used to make the climb is considered valid in the climbing community. Stop acting like you could do better. Oh, and making unrelated comments such as, "I don't need you dumbasses to point out..." only detracts from your point. Stick with the subject, buddy. And go climbing. Style is a personal decision - you make your own rules.
So what you're saying is that as long as he didn't weight the rope then it would be a flash even though he landed on the ledge. That's a valid point but I'd still say he fell unintentionally. :wink:
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akd
Nov 1, 2003, 2:26 AM
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In reply to: Joshy8200: The point is, the style in which the third and fourth ascensionists used to make the climb is considered valid in the climbing community. Stop acting like you could do better. Oh, and making unrelated comments such as, "I don't need you dumbasses to point out..." only detracts from your point. Stick with the subject, buddy. And go climbing. Style is a personal decision - you make your own rules.
You'll have to define "valid" and talk for yourself, not for the "entire community"... :wink: As this joshy guy said, he was playing the devil's advocate role (it was pretty obvious, so it was kinda funny how some people reacted), and as you said, you make your own rules, and for him (joshy), it's more valid what Parady and Graham did, nuthin' more.
I don't know what the community thinks, but it's totally sick what Sharma did, and also, seems quite clear that he also took his own decision, and it was to try it with both bolts preclipped (after trying to flash it with only ONE). So he sent it (as it could have happened before), he had fun and that's it. If he'd care about what joshy, me, you, or the community thinks, maybe he'd have tried it with only one preclipped bolt, but he doesn't... (and he'll probably send it next try...)
So, stay cool, congratulate the supernatural Sharma, and respect the comments of others.
ps: I also think that "dumbasses" was out of line...
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fiend
Nov 1, 2003, 3:00 AM
Post #38 of 88
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In reply to: In reply to: Someone needs to do that little 17 foot high wonder sans cord so that the bolts can be chopped on it. Foolish boy. Have you ever even SEEN the route? You need to, and touch the starting holds. I think you would change your mind about the ROUTE completely. Stickclipper pretty much said it all. If you wanna try to do cordless, feel free. Just don't do it while I'm around. I don't wanna have to help carry you to the ambulance.
Actually, I have seen it. I didn't think the landing was all that bad. I mean, it's not great, but considering some of the other problems out there people have done with bad landings.
The anchors may be at 20ft but they're a few feet above a ledge... the 'topout' of the climb, thus making the actual climb less than 20ft.... who leads something so small? I'd say leading is no better than top-roping... how can clipping an extra bolt be better style? If Graham risked a groundfall then why not risk a bouldering groundfall?
I just think it's contrived.
And my sending ability has no bearing on whether or not I think it's contrived so suck it. It's my opinion and I'm entitled to it.
Oh and to the dude who claimed the first ascensionist has the right to bolt whatever they want... does that mean I can bolt cracks if I FA them? Maybe I'll bolt some boulders in the North Walls over here in Squamish.
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climb_plastic
Nov 1, 2003, 6:04 PM
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Fiend, drop it already...your points make no sense. Maybe if someone actually believed that you saw the route then someone would listen to you.
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climbsomething
Nov 1, 2003, 8:27 PM
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In reply to: Fiend, drop it already...your points make no sense. Maybe if someone actually believed that you saw the route then someone would listen to you. |
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jhump
Nov 1, 2003, 8:53 PM
Post #41 of 88
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Why is the word flash being used? Not even close. Nothing taken away from the climber, I'm sure he didn't use the word flash. Sounds like an internet spray lord hype job to me.
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wrenrunner
Nov 1, 2003, 9:26 PM
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Have You seen the landing!!????? :lol: It would be pretty hard to protect unless a person hauled 20 crash pads and a few air matresses up!!!
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jipstyle
Nov 1, 2003, 9:56 PM
Post #43 of 88
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In reply to: Fiend, drop it already...your points make no sense. Maybe if someone actually believed that you saw the route then someone would listen to you.
I don't just believe ... I know Fiend has seen the climb.
I also know that it is largely irrelevant. Hell, having watched the VIDEO posted in this thread, I'd say the landing isn't horrible ... with a couple good spotters to direct you onto your pads.
As for Fiend's points not making sense ... you might not agree, but if you think they don't make sense, you need help.
Personally, I wonder why the word 'flash' was used in the 8a.nu article AT ALL. Sharma fell on the crux move his first attempt, made two 'false starts', and then sent. Now, this is pretty damn incredible, but not a flash. Pure journalistic hubris, IMO.
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braaaaaaaadley
Nov 1, 2003, 10:22 PM
Post #44 of 88
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Who cares what the hell Sharma did. Everyone is ready to bash him when he fails and go "damn that guy's good" when he climbs something spectacular. Most of you will never become a climber as good as he is so who are you to go bashing him when he fails. He's already a great climber so lets just leave it at that instead of having a discussion on him every five minutes.
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neeshman
Nov 1, 2003, 10:26 PM
Post #45 of 88
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Ok. Couple of things...
1) The term "Flashed" was definitley not true. Cause he fell. Therefore voiding the flash.
2) In reply to: Oh and to the dude who claimed the first ascensionist has the right to bolt whatever they want... does that mean I can bolt cracks if I FA them? Maybe I'll bolt some boulders in the North Walls over here in Squamish.
Your an idiot. LOL :D :D :D Not to be rude, but I think your getting way to emotional about this. Chill out. Just cause someone said that the FAist has the right to bolt whatever they want does not mean that all the other rules of routsetting go out the window. But you are right about not bolting cracks.
3) How bout everysone stops bickering about who did this, why didn't they do it like that blah blah blah. And the only people who can say something should be the people who have climbed it. The whole route is absolutley SICK people. Watch the video. I dont even want to see it up close cause it looks impossible. I would not want to be up 15-20 feet on those holds and suddelny pop off. Anyways.... Yeah. Everyone relax, and go climb something
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superfox
Nov 1, 2003, 10:34 PM
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In reply to: Have You seen the landing!!????? :lol: It would be pretty hard to protect unless a person hauled 20 crash pads and a few air matresses up!!!
That's my impression of the situation, having touched the starting holds a couple times. Falling on the first move, or maybe the second, would give a good landing on a flat ledge. however, past that, if someone fell, their feet would either clip the starting ledge, making their head and upper back smash into the rocky terrain a couple feet lower than the ledge, or they would miss the ledge and fall on the sharp rocks below. 20 crash pads could make it boulderable, but then people would be complaining how they don't have the balls to do it without crashpads. The only way I see this "controversy" ending soon is if an elite climber gets seriously injured trying to boulder it.
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micronut
Nov 1, 2003, 10:37 PM
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In reply to: Let's be real. Do you brag about your greatest top rope ascent?
Well, if my hardest TR was .14d in a day.............
This discussion brings up the often debated issue of what truely is a lead?
My personal opinion is that this accent by Sharma is just as valid as any rap bolted sport "lead", where the danger is bolted down pre-climb. I'd like to see the masters on the cutting edge dispence with bolts whenever possible and just focus on pure free climbing. It's too hard to clip the bolts anyway on the hardest routes. To have to "lead" it on pre-placed bolts for an accent to be valid is as contrived as anything else.
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tweek
Nov 1, 2003, 10:53 PM
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In reply to: Let's be real. Do you brag about your greatest top rope ascent?
I'd brag about Jumaring a 5.14d
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jipstyle
Nov 2, 2003, 2:36 AM
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In reply to: 2) In reply to: Oh and to the dude who claimed the first ascensionist has the right to bolt whatever they want... does that mean I can bolt cracks if I FA them? Maybe I'll bolt some boulders in the North Walls over here in Squamish. Your an idiot. LOL :D :D :D Not to be rude, but I think your getting way to emotional about this. Chill out. Just cause someone said that the FAist has the right to bolt whatever they want does not mean that all the other rules of routsetting go out the window. But you are right about not bolting cracks.
Fiend's post was humour .. there's no reason for him to 'chill out' ... he's laughing. Everyone who got their panties in a wad over it needs to relax a little.
In reply to: Everyone relax and go climb something
AMEN! :)
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climb_plastic
Nov 3, 2003, 3:37 AM
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In reply to: Everyone who got their panties in a wad over it needs to relax a little.
That's what I've been trying to say all along....all you critics need to relax a little and not get your panties in a wad.
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