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majicman17
Feb 22, 2002, 5:06 PM
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What are some recomendations for a good beginners climbing shoe? Will be doing mostly indoor climbing, and toproping on the weekends. Thanks
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phylp
Feb 22, 2002, 6:59 PM
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I personally don't think it makes any sense to think in terms of a "beginner" vs. "expert" shoe, rather, the point is, what type of climbing are you going to do most and what is the best shoe for that purpose. You say you will be most in the gym. For myself in the gym I like the 5.10 mocasym because it lends itself to the type of routes most found in gyms (overhanging, toe-in pockets etc.) I also sometimes wear my Zens.
A velcro or a pullon is good for the gym because you can slip it off between climbs. If you are wearing a "general purpose" type of shoe and it's comfortable to stand around in all day, it's probably fitted too loose. And if it's uncomfortable becasue it is fit properly, you will have the hassle of lacing and onlacing.
For limited outside use the mocasym slipper works fine but it will wear faster than an all purpose shoe. It's not as precise in steep edging as you might want and it will be a bit painful in hand, fist cracks.
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jt512
Feb 22, 2002, 7:09 PM
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Moccasyms. See my comments at tradgirl.com. Click on the link and scroll down to "From: Jay Tanzman."
-Jay
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fo_d
Feb 22, 2002, 7:16 PM
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I havent worn any of the shoes mentioned above but the slipper of velcro thing seems like a good idea for indoor short routes. I was going to recomend the spire, I love my spires and I'll keep resoling them till they fall apart.
Les
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phyre
Feb 22, 2002, 7:33 PM
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I own a pair of 5.10 newtons and I love them, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend them for the gym. The important thing about buying shoes is to try on every pair you can. Every shoe fits differently and the most important thing is that they fit your foot. you won't care how well they edge or smear if you are in pain because they don't fit right or because they are so loose they don't work.
once you find some that fit well I think I'd go with something a little softer rather than something like the newton or the Boreal Ace, for the gym.
phyre
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gerhard
Feb 22, 2002, 8:22 PM
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I think a pair a Boreal Zyphers would do!
G
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cajunman
Feb 22, 2002, 8:36 PM
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I've had 5.10 Spires for about 2 and a half years. They really work great on anything you climb on. In or outdoors. Also if your looking for cheap beginner shoes check ou the EB Optium. There only about 75 bucks, my friend has a pair and loves them. You can get them on gearexpress.com.
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rigel
Feb 22, 2002, 9:48 PM
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shoe size aside (snug / tight...but not uncomfortable) the biggest thing i would recommend is compare the sole thickness. the thinner the rubber the more feeling your feet will have but the faster the shoe will wear out. this is especially bad for beginning because experience will give you better foot work...and in the beginning you generally don't have as good footwork. as you get better you can go to a thinner shoe. but you should still consider the rock. i have a pair of super thin matrix that i only use out doors on limestone because granite and especially the indoor gym wall texture eats through shoes like the cookie monster with oreo's.
i certainly wouldn't shell out a bundle of cash for my first pair cause they won't last.
[ This Message was edited by: rigel on 2002-02-22 13:49 ]
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vaness
Feb 22, 2002, 10:27 PM
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i dont really like the spires...i have had them for almost a half a year and i think they suck, but im climbing around 5.10 and theyw ere good for a first shoe. so i guess there a good beginner.
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jeepmonkey
Feb 22, 2002, 10:58 PM
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When i first started 1 1/2 years ago i was worried about the shoes to get; what was the right one.
get a general all round shoe for outdoors and wear the hell out of them trying different routes. 5.10 Huecos are good for that, spires also. see what other climbers recommend as a general all round shoe. After you've climbed you'll learn your own habits on the rock, what your shoes will and won't do, what you want to do, and then spend the money on something specialized. I like my Huecos: they smear well, are okay on dime holds, and okay in cracks.
i wear mocs in the gym. don't want the hassle of lacing up. slip on, slip off. i use Red Chilis for the gym. 5.10 are also popular. different midsole on both, so try them in the store and pick the one you like.
hope this helps.
Jeep
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miagi
Feb 23, 2002, 8:51 PM
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The slipper style shoe is usually the best. Well...the recommended, maybe not the best. Anyways it causes you to use your feet more. Its increased exercise training when you wear those shoes. Also i bought a pair of Kermits from www.climbingshoes.com for 60$. Ive seen beginners through experts use these shoes and i for one love them. They are cheap, durable, just as good as the brand name ones. Good luck
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kaptk
Feb 24, 2002, 2:05 AM
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I have a pair from Scarpa that I bought in England for a great price. One of the things that I like about them is the heel protection. It is great when I have to do a heel hook. Just from what has been posted already it seems that everyone likes the shoes that they have. That is the most important thing, that they work for you. All of us have different feet, so we need different shoes. I have a wide foot, so some of the brands didn't fit well. I had to go for one with a wider toe box. I also would tell you that eventhough you plan on mainly climbing in the gym for now, you will probably have an urge to get out on the rock soon and an all around shoe might be worth your while. Have fun climbing.
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climbingaddict
Feb 26, 2002, 1:07 PM
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i would recommed 510 anasazi, either velcro or laceup... they're really good for both beginners and experts. And since you're doing indoor, velcro is the recommended shoe from me.
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tofattoclimb
Feb 27, 2002, 11:14 AM
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I agree with trying as many pairs as you can the 5.10 stealth soles are brillant so I would try them a bit more money but worth it, also ask your self do I waant comfort or performance just starting go for a tight ish fit no point crippling yourself hope this helps.
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climbingaddict
Feb 27, 2002, 12:47 PM
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yeah, bring on the 510
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its_me_drew
Feb 27, 2002, 2:48 PM
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I would recomend the LaSportiva Mythos. I've had great success with them in the gym and I found that they work rather well for climbing cracks in the outdoors too. Just one word of warning, they really stretch out after about a month or so. Get a tight pair.
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amethyst
Feb 27, 2002, 3:16 PM
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Rigel-
I am not sure with your theory. My first pair of shoes were not cheap. Which made me think about my footwork, which in turn helped me develope decent tecnique right from the beginning - All because I did not want to wreck my shoes!!!!
Amethyst
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woodse
Feb 27, 2002, 4:24 PM
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Personally I think La Sportiva's Mythos is a great shoe, especially for beginners because it really grows with you. Buy them small cause they really stretch.
woodsE
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treyr
Feb 27, 2002, 11:58 PM
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I think a good indoor shoe foor beginners is the Bufo Spider. It has good grip especially for indoors. They are fairly inexpensive compared to other shoes and they are velcros. U can look at them at www.rockshoes.com
I have a pair and use them for indoor and real rock and i think they are goood
TROB
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old_school_guy
Mar 6, 2002, 8:00 PM
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If you like the fit of Spires, but want a little more advanced shoe, consider the 5.10 Mojave. I just bought a pair after considering lots of shoes - Trad and Sport, lace-ups and slippers. I have a really narrow foot and thought 5.10s wouldn't work. Was I wrong. The Mojave's seem to work well for everything - gym, bouldering, etc. They aren't as comfy as the Spires or the La Sportiva Cliffs (what is?) and they are a quesy, baby-asprin orange color. But they fit like really tight gloves (my toes are a little unhappy, but that will change as they break in..I hope).
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carterslamfan
Apr 1, 2002, 3:27 AM
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i am just starting climbing and i am thinking of getting a pair of boreal diablos. if you have them or have heard about them please tell me if they're good or not. thanks
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redox
Apr 1, 2002, 3:56 AM
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DONT BUY DIABLOS!!! THEY SUCK.
I had a pair originally, but they hurt like hell in the cracks. AND they fall apart at the toes super fast. Most of my friends that have them say they dont last at all.
I promptly exchanged them for the Equinox. I love em in the cracks, but not so good on the face.
--Ryan
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sparhawk
Apr 1, 2002, 4:19 AM
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Hehe, until the gear review section is fully functional... there's gonna be a lot of post like this floating around...
I personally started with the 5-10 anazasi, which is what climbingaddict is recommmending here. It was my collegue who advise me to go with velcro to save the hazzle taking them on and off when I am not used to wearing climbing shoes for too long yet... velcro provides fast adjustment which I found allows a better fit adjustment by the user than slip on, and I also found slip on tend to be a little bit too soft for my beginner's feet. The other thing about the anasazi are the upper is made of synthetic instead of leather which minimized stretching, something many beginner climbers tend to under estimate (I know a lot of climbers with their first pair of shoes being too big). And the narrow tip of the shoes makes it excellent on jibs, small edges and jamming when climbing ceilings.
But what I would really recommended is to go to a shop with a climbing wall (not a big one, just a tesing wall) so you can slighty test things like edging, and how much you can feel under your feet. Also, ask climbers around you...
hope this helps,
sparhawk
p.s. diablo stretches quite a bit...
[ This Message was edited by: sparhawk on 2002-03-31 20:20 ]
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decoeric
Apr 4, 2002, 9:46 PM
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I really like Diablos, I would recommend them...
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hathor
Apr 9, 2002, 4:23 PM
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What do you do if your shoes stretch too much? Curse and buy a different pair?
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