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girlclimb
Nov 20, 2003, 5:49 AM
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Ok so i've never done a climbing comp in my life but the local gym is holding a very big bouldering comp on sat and i've decided to compete (in the beginers level most likely :) ) Any way has any one out there competed before and if so any advice :) THANKS
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gdeveney
Nov 20, 2003, 5:59 AM
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don't worry about winning. Just climb hard and have a good time. Try and make the best sends possible. Don't blow all your strength trying something that is out of your league, but also don't tire yourself out on easy stuff so that you run out of gas on problems at your level. Also watch other climbers, especially those better than you for tips and technique ideas. But above all have fun.
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karmaklimber
Nov 20, 2003, 7:16 AM
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Have fun.
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chill
Nov 20, 2003, 8:44 AM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2003
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agreed.
having fun is key. in my opinion it's easier to send when you're having fun then when you're feeling sh*tty.
to make sure you don't get your spirits down, start off on some easy warm-up problems. get in a rhythm and just keep working your way up in difficulty. when you're feeling ready, go ahead and tackle the problems at your limit.
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joshj
Nov 20, 2003, 1:42 PM
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I'll give you the same advice everyone is giving me: Have fun, learn from climbers better than you (which for people at my level, isn't hard to find), and FORGET that it's a competition. If you place well in your division, then great. But don't focus on it.
Good Luck.
josh
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mustclimb69
Nov 20, 2003, 2:12 PM
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Watch what others are doing, technique plays such a big part of advancing.
Have fun and push your self!
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girlclimb
Nov 20, 2003, 5:41 PM
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thanks for all the advice so far guys :)
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scubasnyder
Nov 20, 2003, 5:49 PM
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Registered: Oct 3, 2003
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I always just kept climbing as fun not as a contact i should try that sounds fun
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jgass
Nov 21, 2003, 6:27 PM
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for my first indoor comp i had been climbing in that gym for about a year so i dont know if this will help. for my first time i just kind of sat around and looked at what went on. when i climbed i was with all these 20 year olds and i was 13 so it wasnt like i could use the beta they were using cause they were like 6' and i was 5'. IN OTHER WORDS for your first comp dont try to compete and win, compete and have fun no matter what place you get.
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gentry
Nov 21, 2003, 6:50 PM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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Lots of redbull!
never do a problem first and dont spend too much time on any one problem. cant do it move on and come back to it. If its your first..i would try to really compete to win and that will give you a taste of whether or not competing is for you.
i just did my first comp and was completely strung out on getting points and placing that it was hard for me to stay calm and enjoy myself. I will be a spectator from now on..
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minjin
Dec 15, 2003, 8:04 PM
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there are a couple of tips i teach the kids i coach with regards to bouldering comps:
1) if you don't send a problem in your first five tries, move on.
2) don't stress about placing or points, focus on the climbing.
3) warm up and stretch. i can't stress this enough.
4) read the route before you get on it. try to onsight your problems.
5) don't let go, and climb hard.
6) if you're tired, take 30+ mins off and get ready for the second wind.
granted, there are exceptions to the first and last rules, because they depend largely on time and format. if you have three hours or so to climb, warm up for the first half hour, focus on sending until the end of the second hour, rest a bit, and then use the last half hour to knock down any problems that can get you extra points. make sure your tendons, etc. are thoroughly warm before you climb hard, because overzealous comp climbing tweaks tendons like there's no tomorrow (which, incidentally, has happened to me on two occasions). also, route setting does wonders for your route reading abilities, so practice it when you can.
but most of all, have fun with it. ha, you can't make much money off of climbing anyways, so you might as well be in it for the joy it brings.
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hema
Dec 15, 2003, 8:25 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2003
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A few tips from my first bouldering comp, which was held on last sat.
Start warming up on really piss easy routes. And before warming up, make sure you have warmed up your fingers and hands.
Get a couple of tries, and if no success move on and coma back later.
Get beta by watching others climb.
After warming up on easier routes try to do routes that are not so nice to fingers and save a couple of juggy or slouper routes to the end.
Drink enough (not alcohol).
Eat something and have a couple of short brakes.
DON'T BRAKE YOUR HAND LIKE I DID AFTER FISRT 2,5 h (of 4,5 h comp).
AND HAVE FUN!!!
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alderak
Dec 15, 2003, 8:34 PM
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Registered: Nov 18, 2003
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Get a good night sleep the night before, and since it is normally a preformance day and not a training day, climb problems that require your personal strengths. Climb the big dynos and overhangs if your powerful, climb the crimpy slabs if you have great balance and reach, ect....
Have fun and don't sweat the placing... its all subjective and random anyhow. Everyone gets a prize at the comps I have been to.
Good luck
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