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psirro
Nov 24, 2003, 3:08 PM
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ok i am pretty too close to .13a and i would like to ask how to improove my endurance to climb up to this level i believe my technique is ok for reaching this level.I special need some kind of training to help me .
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mattdog
Nov 24, 2003, 3:12 PM
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In reply to: ok i am pretty too close to .13a and i would like to ask how to improove my endurance to climb up to this level i believe my technique is ok for reaching this level.I special need some kind of training to help me .
I just started onsighting 5.13a myself, and let me tell you, there's one thing and one thing only that got me there:
BEER.
Lots and lots of beer.
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mattdog
Nov 24, 2003, 3:14 PM
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P.S. Not that cheap variety, mind you. The good stuff. Try it, you'll be amazed and what you find yourself doing.
Check out my profile pic. I never would have been able to send that V15 if it handn't been for the six pack of Sierra Blue Moon in my pack.
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cgranite
Nov 26, 2003, 2:31 AM
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I don't climb 5.13 yet either and it's also because of endurance. It's like, if I cut a 5.13 into sections, I could do it all, but sending the whole thing is a different story. I have been working on endurance by staying on the wall as much as possible without brakes, but I know there are other things that could help as well. I know there aren't very many hard climbers on this site, so if you are, lend your advice.
thanks
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jookyhead
Nov 26, 2003, 2:38 AM
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Man, I've climbed 5.13 since I first started. It's easy, if you need a hold while you're climbing, just hit the rock with a chisel a few times and then you'll cruise the thing.
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nateyoun
Nov 26, 2003, 2:43 AM
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the majority of 13's that i've been on and done seem to be more of power endurance rather than straight endurance. So, if you're doing 13's like that, maybe 40 feet long and just one hard move after another.. 4x4's are the answer.. not off road vehicles..
here's what to do. pick 4 boulder problems that are tough for you, but not to hard.. you probably flashed them when you first got on them, but they were still tough.. then do all four in a row.. the less time between the better.. try not to even chalk up, just jump down from one, and get on the next, and if you fall off one, either go to the next or get right back on where you fell. then rest for about 3 or so minutes then repeat.. a total of 4 times... if you're gung ho, do two full sets in a night..
also, maybe start off on some easier ones to gauge your strength.. but you wanna be hurting when you're done..
these helped me a lot when i actually did them... it's hard to motivate you cause they really really hurt if you're doing them right. try to get a partner to do them with you, you don't even have to do the same problems..
also, don't do the same ones every week. switch it up a bit.
if the 13's you're on are just long. like red river stuff and some stuff at new river. climb and down climb.. get on a mid 11, climb it, and then down climb again.
a lot of outdoor routes have good rests.. really learn to use them. i know so many people that get on a route that has a medium rest on it half way up, and they just blow through it cause it gets them pumped. well. the first few times you get on that rest , it will pump you out, but if you train the rest, it'll start actually feeling better.
hope that helps.. good luck
can i ask what route and where you're projecting?
nate
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thrasher
Nov 26, 2003, 2:45 AM
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Can't help you with climbing .13's but I can help you with your spelling... :roll:
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sponge
Dec 8, 2003, 11:52 PM
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It's not your endurance. You simply need to climb more.
To claim that your technique is sound is quite a bold statement. I'm sure that even seasoned climbers such as Ron Kauk or Peter Croft would tell you that they can still learn new ways to save energy while climbing.
It's all too easy to to blame one aspect of one's climbing on their inability to succeed on a given climb. In all likelihood, it's a combination of factors that have hindered you on achieving your goal.
Without knowing you at all, the only advice I could give, would be to go out and climb tons of .11's and .12's at, or just above your onsight level. This will definitely increase your endurance, rock-reading abilities, and overall aptitude as a climber.
Good luck.
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rjtrials
Dec 9, 2003, 12:04 AM
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Stav,
I am assuming that you train pretty regularly, either at the gym or at the crag. I am also going to assume that you have one or more regular partners to train with.
One of the methods of training that I regularly used was simple. Aim for a goal of number of climbs, say 30, for the day. We would usually do them in sets of three. The first being almost to the max grade, second a bit less, and the third even less. Fire the three routes in quick succession with minimal rest between (only the time it takes to lower). By the third route you should be so pumped, every move is a strain...
1st climb: 12
2nd climb: 11+
3rd climb: 11-
Try this out, and I can assure you, your endurance to make the moves while your arms are toasted will drastically increase.
RJ
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wallrat
Dec 9, 2003, 12:04 AM
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Look at your breathing too. When you are pulling through desperate crux moves the tendency is to tense up and stop the oxygen flow just when you need it worst. When you quit breathing you start dying. The next time you are out bouldering, check what your chest/breathing are doing when you are mid crux, you'll see what I mean.
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sammatt
Dec 9, 2003, 12:49 AM
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Go for overlapping linkage when you're working a route, and boost your overall fitness/endurance level by cross-training with aerobic exercise.
In other words, if you're working a 15-bolt 5.13b and you keep falling off at the 11th bolt cuz' you're shithouse pumped, instead of just flinging yourself at the route only to fall in the same spot again, try this: After you fall, rest 5 minutes, then lower down at least two bolts and try to climb from there to the top. That's overlapping linkage.
As for the aerobic training, I've found that trail running really helps my lung capacity; being able to breathe easier on long, pumpy routes will really help you de-pump at rest stances. I'm sure whatever kind of aerobic activity you picked would do the same. Just don't overdo it on rest days.
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rwaltermyer
Dec 9, 2003, 1:20 AM
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In reply to: Go for overlapping linkage when you're working a route, and boost your overall fitness/endurance level by cross-training with aerobic exercise. In other words, if you're working a 15-bolt 5.13b and you keep falling off at the 11th bolt cuz' you're s--- pumped, instead of just flinging yourself at the route only to fall in the same spot again, try this: After you fall, rest 5 minutes, then lower down at least two bolts and try to climb from there to the top. That's overlapping linkage. As for the aerobic training, I've found that trail running really helps my lung capacity; being able to breathe easier on long, pumpy routes will really help you de-pump at rest stances. I'm sure whatever kind of aerobic activity you picked would do the same. Just don't overdo it on rest days.
hope your partner has a gri-gri! opps I'm not a .13 climber...how dare of me.
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fiend
Dec 9, 2003, 2:58 AM
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Training is over-rated.
Just get on a lot of 13s and get yourself worked, keep climbing at your onsight limit, and boulder - boulder - boulder.
Climbing is good training for climbing.
Or train. Some people need that, some people don't. 5.13's are pretty attainable though.
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mutant
Dec 9, 2003, 3:08 AM
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This thread is about as stupid as it gets! If you want to climb harder just go out and put your heart and mind to it. Don't ask advise of others to benefit your compressed ego. Just enjoy the aspect of climbing without the rating. You will find that the enjoyment lies below the rating but at the apex of the perfect climb. Do not settle short of the perfect route either 5.5 or 5.14. Who gives a rats a**. You are the only one who does, so enjoy yourself at all costs.
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fiend
Dec 9, 2003, 3:13 AM
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I also recommend yoga, meditation, granola and pot.
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wedgy
Dec 9, 2003, 4:36 AM
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I tried every possible avenue; diet, aerobics,extensive training(mind&body), home climbing gym, I even moved close to some real rock and still the elusive 13 escaped me. Then, in a moment of genius it hit me:quit your job! In 2 months I did 13d. Now I have tendonitis and no job. Better luck. Peace. Out.
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bluesky
Dec 9, 2003, 4:47 AM
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I wanted to climb a 13. So I climbed a lot. It still was too hard for me. So I kept climbing a lot. Then I found the right line for me - to my strengths.
So I climbed it a lot and learned it really well. Then I fought a mental game against expecting failure. Finally I sent.
I didn't specifically train. I desired. I haven't desired since then in the sport climbing world - but I have had (too much?) bouldering desire lately.
Good Luck.
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couloir
Dec 9, 2003, 5:26 AM
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Hey,
I know you all don't climb 5.13...The original poster is going to be furious...wait a minute, I don't climb 5.13 either....ahhh....I have to get out of here
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quickclips
Dec 9, 2003, 5:44 AM
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I snuck in too, and I'm not yet a 5.11 climber. Thats right I'm a rebel.
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solid
Dec 10, 2003, 12:01 AM
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To the original poster: Your problem is you are not strong enough. There is no particular area you need to get stronger in. You are far too weak in all areas. Work on your weaknesses and sack up.
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tweek
Dec 10, 2003, 1:24 AM
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FA any route and rate it at 5.13. As long as you don't tell any one about it then it won't be downgraded 8) .
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fullahsiffur
Dec 10, 2003, 2:10 AM
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The topic, written the way it is, makes everyone who sees it click on it to see what's happening inside of this chat club for the elite..
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ikefromla
Dec 10, 2003, 3:20 AM
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I work at a bouldering gym. As such, the most convenient training for me is circuit training. It freaking works wonders. Since I started circuit training 15 months ago, my hardest redpoint has increased 6 letter grades. Though, I cannot fully attribute this to circuit training (i also try to live a healthy lifestyle... and spend a LOT of time focusing on improving my technique)
my $0.02
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dmon
Dec 18, 2003, 8:14 AM
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From your profile pic it is evident that you suffer from the same problem as me. You have no biceps.
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fredrogers
Dec 18, 2003, 5:17 PM
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First of all, how can someone give you advice from such an undetailed post? What are your strengths and weaknesses? What grades have you climbed - how many and how long did they take you? Where do you climb?
Want to climb a 13a? It's not much different than when you tried an 11c or 12c. There's nothing magical about this grade. Climb a lot of routes under 13a first. Do a bunch of 12b, c, and d's (the ones you did 5 years ago don't count) and then you'll do a 13 in no time. Find a route that inspires you. The kind that makes you want to keep coming back and try over and over.
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