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alpinerocket
Dec 9, 2003, 5:23 PM
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I would like to switch my crampons (Grivel G14) from dual to mono points. However, I noticed that there were two diffent slots for the mono points (one lateral and one medial) and none in the middle. Has any one done this and which slot did you use? John
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tradklime
Dec 9, 2003, 5:40 PM
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You want to put the front point in the slot closest to your big toe. You can try it the other way, but I'm sure it would be awkward.
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Dec 9, 2003, 5:43 PM
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that is correct.
(how you doing, chad?)
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Dec 9, 2003, 5:43 PM
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that is correct.
(how you doing, chad?)
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alpinerocket
Dec 9, 2003, 6:08 PM
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tradklime wrote:
In reply to: You want to put the front point in the slot closest to your big toe. You can try it the other way, but I'm sure it would be awkward
Thanks that what I was thinking. I have never gone mono before and was not sure. John
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tradklime
Dec 9, 2003, 11:19 PM
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In reply to: I have never gone mono before and was not sure. John
I doubt you'll ever go back... the G-14s are fabulous in mono.
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alpinerocket
Dec 10, 2003, 2:26 AM
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Great!!!! going to try it thursday morning I a setting them up now!!!!
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capn_morgan
Dec 11, 2003, 1:37 PM
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how do you like the G14s? I am considering getting a pair. Do you have the crampomatic or the newmatic version?..jsut wondering if the newmatic version would be as precise as the crampomatic.
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tradman
Dec 11, 2003, 2:03 PM
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I've had my G14s for about a year now and they're GREAT! I use the crampomatic bailings with Nepal Extreme boots and it's a superb combination. A friend of mine uses the new-matic version and it's pretty solid but not quite as sensitive as crampomatic (although he uses different boots so it's hard to be definitive).
The only criticism I have is that they ball up like crazy (depending on snow conditions obviously). The anti-balling plates are good, but they take a bit of length off the points, so I use duct tape instead.
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capn_morgan
Dec 11, 2003, 3:23 PM
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thanks...is it just the front that balls up? I am surprised that thats a problem as it isnt at all with the G-12. Im guessing its the addition of the verticle front points that collect all the snow?
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lambone
Dec 12, 2003, 7:30 AM
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I have the Newmatic that i use with La Sportiva S and Extreme S for all types of ice, I love them. My only concern is that the plastic toe piece might get brittle in super cold temps.
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capn_morgan
Dec 12, 2003, 1:46 PM
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lambone, you havent used the G-14 crampomatics on those same boots have you? Im trying to decide which binding style to get. The new matic is nice (have that on my g-12's) as its easy to get on and doesnt rely on that front groove which can wear out. But my concern is that it will not hold the crampon as tightly to the boot as the crampomatic would. This isnt a problem for walking....but a little wiggle in the crampon on veritcel ice might be kinda annoying.
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tradman
Dec 12, 2003, 3:51 PM
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Mine ball up mainly at the front, but badly enough at the back to be irritating. Again, that could also be due to the boots.
As for fitment, I deliberately chose the crampomatic because the slightly closer fit to the boot and better load distribution across the sole gives more "feedback".
As for the toe or heel grooves wearing out, yeah it's a problem, but by the time the (very deep) grooves on my nepals wear out, I'd expect to have to replace the whole boot anyway, and I'd just buy another pair with the same fitment.
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alpinerocket
Dec 13, 2003, 7:07 PM
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used the monos a couple of days ago. They rock, I am not going back to dual. Thanks for the input. John
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thelawgoddess
Dec 14, 2003, 2:19 AM
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i learned to climb in monopoints (rambocomps) and love the precision. as soon as my g14's came in the mail last week, the first thing i did was switch them to mono. i haven't been able to use them yet, but i'll probably go bouldering next week to start getting back into some semblance of climbing shape. like they said, the point goes where your big toe is ... just like the point of rock climbing shoes. great for doing mixed stuff! (not that i've done much of that ... yet, but anyway. :)
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lambone
Dec 15, 2003, 1:22 AM
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In reply to: lambone, you havent used the G-14 crampomatics on those same boots have you?
No. I baught the Newmatic version to use with the Sportiva S boot (the red one). It doesn't have crampon welts in the front.
I have led water ice 5 with that combo and had no toubles. They work just as well as any crampon I've ever had...better. (switchblade, sabertooth, CM Grade-8 Mono, and Bionic).
They are the only crampon I use on ice now...sold the rest.
Bionics? 80$...in good condition.
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