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lankymonkeyboy
Dec 21, 2003, 2:57 AM
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I just started climbing again after like 5 months. I found that my arms last me about 35 minutes, then there as good as butter. When I was at this store the yesterday, my brother got me a BD forearm trainer, I was wondering what would be the be the best training routine to build my upper body this winter? I plan on getting to the indoor gyms as much as I can.
Thanks for the impute.
Trevor Matin
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smellyhippie
Dec 21, 2003, 4:34 AM
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After three beers and two shots of expresso there's a ten minute window where you can climb anything. Go for it.
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zachallen
Dec 28, 2003, 4:20 PM
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Sorry about that other guy. That was a stupid reply, but if you're looking for endurance then I would suggest lots of traversing and/or laps on easy routes or boulder problems. Do stuff that is below your limit so you can condition your body. After weeks of this you can up the intensity and jump on harder stuff. Also ask people at your gym for tips and look around on the internet at sites like planetfear.com and trainingforclimbing.com.
Happy training.
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deafears
Dec 28, 2003, 5:58 PM
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To get fit for climbing, you train as you would for any other sport. First, you decide what type of climbing you want to improve -- six-hour multi-pitch efforts require different stratagies than six-move problems. No matter what style you pick, you'll get the best results from actually climbing, not from using hand exercisers, weights or other substitutes. Join a gym, build a woodie, or move someplace warm.
Be sure to do different types of workouts for different training effects -- long traverses (or routes) for stamina and fitness, short boulder probs (or campusing) for fast-twitch power. Most people who say "I don't train, I just like to climb" also can be heard whining "I never seem to get any better."
Learn about how to train for climbing from books -- most of them are decent -- and from partnering with good climbers. But, just because something works for one person does not mean it will work for you. The more you learn about exercise science, the better you'll be able to decipher what's an effective training routine and what's not.
lastily, the best way to get strong is to get dumped by your significant other, quit your job, and turn all your rage inward. Stop eating and skinny down. Climb until it hurts and then climb some more. Do NOT listen to your body. These, anyone who knows what's up can tell you, are the time-honored ways to break through the grades, and they work.
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pedroparramo
Dec 28, 2003, 9:11 PM
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Rubber hand donuts like BD's won't help. Eric Horst's Training for Climbing is an excellent resource. You probably won't use everything in the book, but there's a ton on training strategy and exercise ideas. Start there. Climbing until it hurts and then climbing more does seem, though, like a terrific way to injure yourself and prevent you from climbing at all. Rest a day or two between hard sessions, tape your fingers and, contrary to other advice, listen to your body!
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jv
Dec 28, 2003, 9:58 PM
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In reply to: Climb until it hurts and then climb some more. Do NOT listen to your body. These, anyone who knows what's up can tell you, are the time-honored ways to break through the grades, and they work.
This is complete bull-s-h-i-t. Surprsing, because the rest of the post wasn't bad. If you want to injure yourself, then get frustrated during rehab, injure yourself again, only worse, then follow the above advice. It works every time.
Read everything you can get your hands on about training for climbing. Start with Performance Rockclimbing by Goddard and Neumann.
JV
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deafears
Dec 29, 2003, 12:29 AM
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JV,
Okay ... but don't tell Jim Karn, CGrif or Twight.
DE
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b_fost
Dec 29, 2003, 12:40 AM
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In reply to: Sorry about that other guy. That was a stupid reply.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
whats with people being so serious? jeez.
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smellyhippie
Dec 29, 2003, 1:36 AM
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Sorry for that rude post, and thank you for apologizing for me, Zach. I need to remember that jokes are not appropriate, even when they're not particularly funny.
I'm going to go sit in the corner.
Nate
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beckerw
Dec 29, 2003, 2:01 AM
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ignore those other jerks!
remeber one thing....it is all about dyno's....just practice throwing your body wildly up the wall, farther than you can. then, outside, don't be afraid to skip all the crappy holds....it works i swear!
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ronamick
Dec 29, 2003, 2:28 AM
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Its not your arms so much as your feet. Concentrate on getting your footwork back up to speed and everything will fall back into place.
Ive found that when I get rusty, the first thing to go is the eyes. Seeing the holds, recognizing the angle, visualizing sequences. Next is the feet.
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ronamick
Dec 29, 2003, 2:29 AM
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In reply to: After three beers and two shots of expresso there's a ten minute window where you can climb anything. Go for it.
You pansies can say what you want. The boy is right.
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ikefromla
Dec 29, 2003, 2:35 AM
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circuit training.
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lunatixx
Dec 29, 2003, 4:02 AM
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YOGA!
for...concentration
for...breathing
for...flexibility
for...power, balance
i think it my help ... it helped me
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jv
Dec 29, 2003, 4:24 AM
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More bull from deafears:
In reply to: JV, Okay ... but don't tell Jim Karn, CGrif or Twight. DE
First, let's see a quote where any of these guys says "climb with pain." You won't find one because each of them has learned that ignoring pain is a sure and certain path to an overuse injury or an outright tear. Second, Neither Karn nor Griffith have a training book on the market, that I know of, or any medical or physiology background. Finally, Twight emphasizes the importance of _progressive_ training, rest between workouts, and above all, staying healthy.
Any more questions noob?
JV
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flyinghatchet
Dec 29, 2003, 4:34 AM
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Settle down now, children...you can continue your pissing contest in Technique and Training. :wink:
Graison
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flyinghatchet
Dec 29, 2003, 4:35 AM
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flyinghatchet moved this thread from Bouldering to Technique & Training.
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litleclimberchick
Jan 7, 2004, 10:20 PM
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doing laps on routes that are slightly below your level seems to be the best way to build strength. just do that for a while and you should see your strength and ability increase.
happy training.
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kindasleepy
Jan 7, 2004, 11:21 PM
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Building a 'woody' helped me a lot. I don't have a lot of time to hang out at the gym. It cost about 100$ to build and took about 5 hours. I can train when ever I want. There are plenty of designs out there...some are free standing and portable. Think about it.
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andyw
Jan 21, 2004, 2:28 AM
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try down climbing it works your arms really well, but most of all use stress balls for arm strength
It might be helpful to use only smaller holds when you go to the gym and it should condition you for endurance and any situation.
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climbon_stone
Jan 21, 2004, 7:42 PM
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indoor climb, i start at 11a, then do 2 laps, then go down one rateing , and up one lap each time. just wait, u will die once uget to a 5.2 lol. :D :lol: :o :) :wink:
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overlord
Jan 21, 2004, 7:46 PM
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a good training routine is a rotine that targets the aspect of climb that you want to improve strength, power endurance, endurance to name some) and gives you desired results without causing injury.
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clymber
Jan 21, 2004, 8:22 PM
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the best training is to climb
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