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jpearl
Dec 22, 2003, 5:19 AM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2003
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Climbing Gyms have been getting a bad rap lately. Granted there are justifiable reasons for this. Some gyms are indeed small, sweaty, loud, rude, and produce climbers with sub-par safety skills. But in the end, the pros outweigh the cons when it comes to gyms. Gyms serve as an easilly accessable portal to the world of climbing for begginers and as a place for advanced and experienced climbers to hone particular skills or to stay in shape in the off season.
The object of this thread will be simple so that it can be productive. Please list one thing that you like about indoor climbing gyms. Then list one thing that you would improve, add to, or suggest to make gyms better.
I'll go first:
1. I like that gyms give me year-round access to climbing.
2. I would post signs asking climbers to keep in mind that a low level of noise is important so that climbers and belayers can better communicate.
O.K. everyone, now it's your turn...
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barefooter
Dec 22, 2003, 6:01 AM
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I like gyms because i can climb after work without climbing in the dark.
I'm sure all the old kooks that drop their kids off and let them run wild love it but i'd prefer them droping em off at chucky cheese
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lil_horsechick
Dec 22, 2003, 6:29 AM
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I like gyms because they HELP promote the Access Fund, which helps keep beautiful climbing areas open. I also like gyms because they promote rock climbing, which I PERSONALLY think is a good thing. I also like gyms because ours provides a decent living for my family, and it keeps me in shape (especially in the winter). :)
You know...I think it was great idea to make a thread on why climbing gyms are good, because just like it was mentioned...too many "outside" climbers are down on gyms all the time. GYMS ARE GOOD!!!!
One more thing...gyms also make the perfect setting for competitions!!! :wink:
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wildduck
Dec 22, 2003, 6:54 AM
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I've started my climbing intrests in a local gym. I've been going there all week to keep fit and stay in shape for outdoors. I think gyms have the suitable enviroment for more people to get introduced to the sport. Sure, rock climbing is not as famous as tennis or soccer, but it's popularity is gaining due to the increase in people climbing at gyms. They soon turn pro and go outdoors !
I hate beginers who think they own the gym and book an entire wall. They let their kids run about screaming and they think they have the right to chase other climbers who are traversing across the walls away because they don't know we're traversing. Gosh i hated the times when those punks told me "hey buddy, we're climbing here" when i was travering across "thier" wall. And they weren't even climbing, there were merely setting up to climb. $!#@ punks.
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_dyno_figly_
Dec 30, 2003, 2:03 AM
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im obsessd w/ gyms.......they rock in my oppinion. climbing real rock has that certain satisfaction 2 it tho that u just cant get in a gym. but gyms are still awesome. they give easy access 2 climbin w/o travelin miles nd miles to the nearest outdoor location. they also publisize climbing which is good because it could use some more attention. one of the bad things about gyms are all the little brats and gym rats that are always, innevitabilly hanging around. if your not gonna b serious, dont bother coming. i mean im all for having a good time, but god kids...get a life....dont b a loser :x
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climbingurlie
Dec 30, 2003, 2:34 AM
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I learned to climb in my gym, I've made some awesome friends in my gym, I can climb better in the gym, I'm comfortable in the gym. The Powerhouse Gym in Vegas just all around rocks! :D
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moabbeth
Dec 30, 2003, 3:12 AM
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Gyms are so awesome cause they keep people climbing inside and leave more open rock outside for me to climb on. GYMS RULE!!! :lol: :lol:
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lachendro
Dec 30, 2003, 3:33 AM
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:D Good:Year round climbing, strength and endurance building, great setting for competitions.
:( Bad:Too dam expensive(in my area), cocky, self-impressed gym rats that have never touched an outdoor route, too crowded at times.
Overall though, I agree that gyms can be a wonderful thing.
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xanx
Dec 30, 2003, 5:12 AM
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hehe jpearl as an east coaster u should join our proud tradition of making as much noise as humanly possible ;-) i have heard stories of people out west who think climbing should be like a fcking golf course "SHHH!!! I'M TRYING TO CLIMB HERE!!"
hehe sry jk...
anyway what i like most about indoor gyms is how strong they can make you. u can climb more consecutive days in a row and recover faster. the safety factor lets u try hard stuff w/out fear. u can learn to do really sick moves off of really sick holds. of course, this is alsmost entirely dependent on ur routesetter...
make fun of gym rats if u want, but we are still going to be the ones who walk up to The Fly and campus the first move... (of COURSE i don't mean me :roll: )
what i don't like about gyms: it is very difficult to prepare for the mental aspect in a gym. and believe me i have tried.... boulder problems up to the ceiling with commiting moves up top... but the fact is u still always have pads and spotters under u. fear hasn't been a huge obsticle for me yet; i have been called a little crazy for some of the stuff i have jumped on yet i still think i am way conservative when it comes to safety... although i have to say i got a bit scared on Yikes, and i think that fear prevented me from pulling hard enough to stick that last move.
but i digress....
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climb_plastic
Dec 30, 2003, 5:15 AM
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In reply to: Gyms are so awesome cause they keep people climbing inside and leave more open rock outside for me to climb on. GYMS RULE!!! :lol: :lol:
I think they actually get more people to start climbing outdoors. It's what got me started. I think that's another reason why a lot of climbers don't like them.
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climber49er
Dec 30, 2003, 6:27 AM
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My gym is cool because they just set up a slackline today...
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johnnyslimane
Dec 30, 2003, 1:37 PM
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Good: I can climb year round without worrying about getting West Nile (I'm in KY, there are tons of mosquitos) or dealing with the hot and humid or cold and rainy (or snowy) days.
Bad: Some parents think climbing gyms are friggin' day cares.
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crag
Dec 30, 2003, 1:52 PM
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I like Climbing Gyms because they spawn Posers
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piton
Dec 30, 2003, 3:19 PM
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i like gyms because there are so many gym gumbies to laugh at! ex lil-horsechick once again climbers support the access fund not gyms! :roll:
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b_fost
Dec 30, 2003, 3:44 PM
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you gotta love the people who wear ascenders on their harness at the gym :roll:
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doones
Dec 30, 2003, 4:10 PM
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After being out of climbing for a while, I found that the local gym was a great way to build back the skills and strength lost over time. The one I go to is quite small and if you are certified, access is from 5:00 am 10:00 pm most days. I am also using it to teach my son and daughters the essentials of climbing. It cannot replace the rock but its better than nothing.
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bighigaz
Dec 30, 2003, 4:46 PM
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First, we can take the positive from the negative... it seems we all agree there are a number of self-righteous, egotistical climbers at the gyms... and some even work there, unfortunately... but you know what? If they ARE the typical "gym-rat" then having the gym at all will keep them off the REAL rock!!!
For many of us, the gym is the only way to get a good pull in the afternoon after work or school... this is a good thing.
Now, I really believe it is easy for a gym to separate itself from the mundane drudgery of the typical dirty, loud, rude atmosphere...
1. CUSTOMER SERVICE. If you own a gym, don't just train your employees to climb... train them to be friendly and professional. This will bring people back as much as a quality route setter.
2. VARIETY. Caves, overhangs, cracks, aretes, textured slabs. Give people the whole experience! Also, make the atmosphere condusive to the outside... Murals, paintings, PLANTS, even boulders (real ones) to sit on.
3. GOOD VENTILATION. Proper heating and cooling, and good air flow. Floor fans, ceiling fans, whatever it takes.
4. The OWNER(s) needs to be just as excited about climbing in the gym as somebody who walks in for the first time... If and when I own and operate a climbing gym, if I am not completely excited to be there, with yet another opportunity to climb, then something is going to change.
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sspssp
Dec 30, 2003, 5:17 PM
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In reply to: :( Bad: ...gym rats that have never touched an outdoor route,
No, people that only climb inside is good.
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rplocek
Dec 30, 2003, 5:45 PM
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The coolest thing about the climbing gym is that it taught me about footwork. After having spent three years climbing outside, I still didn't grasp it completely. After only one winter inside I was much better at paying attention to my feet.
Something I would like to see improve would be a standardization of safety requirements and belay classes. It scares me to think of what isn't being taught to beginners.
Keep climbing, the higher you are the better it gets!
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juanjo
Dec 30, 2003, 5:56 PM
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Registered: Oct 19, 2002
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You can climb whenever you want, donīt depend on the weather and you gain strenght and technique.
What I dont like is that you get ussed to climb at low heights and when you get to the rock gonna be a little freaked out :shock:
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the_pirate
Dec 30, 2003, 6:01 PM
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In reply to: Gyms are so awesome cause they keep people climbing inside and leave more open rock outside for me to climb on. GYMS RULE!!! :lol: :lol:
Took the words right out of my mouth.
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supe
Dec 30, 2003, 6:04 PM
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Registered: Apr 23, 2003
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Good: Only place to climb when it is raining or freezing outside -(not that that is much of a problem where I live :wink: ). Good place to work on footwork and push yourself all day long especially past sundown. Also, the gear shops in climbing gyms are usually preferable to the small ones in my area that are tacked onto local sporting goods stores. Another thing- i like to climb to music and that is usually not permitted down here due to the fact that people come out for the peace and quiet.
Bad: Gyms are usually inhabited, or dominated by the Gym Rats that think because they've scent a 5.12. in the gym they own the place. Also, people just aren't as friendly there and generally the only question a visitor gets asked is "are you done screwing around on that route yet?" And worst of all they bring unexperienced people to outdoor crags that think it is just like a gym, and that they don't really need to belay because the hard rock at the base is probably just as soft as the big cushy pads at the bottom of their gym :shock: . Oh and one more thing. I hate when someone fresh from the gym comes out to the real rock and swears up a storm about how they can climb 5.12 in their gym and that this stupid route must be over rated.
All in all though I have learned to like them for what they are worth...
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dabhaid
Dec 30, 2003, 8:33 PM
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Registered: Nov 24, 2003
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gyms are great - without my campus gym I would be doing no climbing at all at the minute :( I miss rock.
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furryfrisbee
Dec 30, 2003, 8:50 PM
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In reply to: The object of this thread will be simple so that it can be productive. Please list one thing that you like about indoor climbing gyms. Then list one thing that you would improve, add to, or suggest to make gyms better.
Like: You can work with a new partner before you head out to the wild.
Improve: More rock, or textured walls that look/feel like rock.
http://www.nicros.com/nicros/#
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xanx
Dec 30, 2003, 8:55 PM
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i guess everyone else seems ot have a different definition of "gym rat" than i do... i think of a gym rat as a climber who climbs predominately inside, but a climber nonetheless. i think what a lot of u are talking about are called "indoor spraylords" - the lowest level of "climbers" - these are the people who spray about doing "the blue route" inside and who pull 5.13 in the gym. i think u would be hard pressed to find someone who actually PREFERS gym climbing to real rock...
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