The guy put a quickdraw from one bolt to the other the put a locking biner in the middle then put the rope through, and off he went. Has anyone else ever seen someone do this? is this safe?

Ok first to Vegastradguy. I've been taught how to set up a toprope so i know that i can set one up right. but like you said learning about how a bad one is setup might be good to know as well.

Now to crushingfinger. Can't get rid of her, we live together! lol

Honestly, who could climb and not think it's fun?

Question two: I saw someone set up a toprope that was kinda strange. The guy put a quickdraw from one bolt to the other the put a locking biner in the middle then put the rope through, and off he went. Has anyone else ever seen someone do this? is this safe?

Daniel :)

I would say "might be good to know as well" is about as tentative and understated as you can get. Make yourself an expert on anchor systems, such that you can design one that is solid, redundant, equalized, and offering no extension regardless of the situation, placements, direction of loading, weather, or state of mind. Read both of the "Climbing Anchors" books by John Long, absorb them, and practice setting up anchors utilizing everything from tree trunks to car bumpers to bolts to nuts and SLCDs to pebbles you find on the beach. Learn to improvise, to see placements, and evaluate anchor systems good, bad, and marginal, at a glance. That being said, never just glance at a fixed anchor, but inspect every inch of the gear comprising the anchor as well as the configuration of said gear. the engineering as it were, not to mention the quality of the rock, soil or other material surrounding the anchor. Thoroughly inspect your gear every time you use it.

I've seen unsafe anchors in locations ranging from Half Dome and El Capitan to ice and alpine climbs in Canada. The American triangle is a common fixed rappel station throughout the United States. Bolts are sometimes placed in detached blocks, Rap rings are sometimes worn to ten percent of their original thickness, fixed pins loosen over time and temperature variations.


Your girlfriend is right to be scared of heights. Free fall rapidly develops forces equal to that of being struck by a car travelling 50 mph. I am still afraid of heights after climbing for 35 years. What your girlfriend does not have is confidence in the safety systems involved in climbing. Given your apparent inability (this is based solely on your post, mind you, and no offense intended) to recognize unsafe systems, this lack of confidence might not be less than well-placed.

Regardless, start small, using bombproof anchor systems. Leaving the ground is the first step, simply being suspended by the rope with feet able to touch the ground simply by setting them down. Gradually and at her own pace go higher, developing confidence in both you and the safety systems.

Stay safe, enjoy each other's company, and remember to have fun.

Brutus of Wyde
Old Climbers' Home
Oakland, California

Ok I ll try this one
The girlfriend issue will pass she wil gradually become accustomed to falling and get used to heights
The top rope set up could be Ok or could be wrong.
Depending on the legnth of the draw and the distance between the bolts this could have been ok.

For example if the bolts were average width apart and the Draw was actually a shoulder legnth sling between the biners and the angle of the sling was " acceptable" and the sling has a half twist in it then you are Ok.
UYou could beef the system up with locking biners on the bolts and two reversed gate lockers on the rope suspension point. The 2 biners isnt because on is going to break it is because the bend in the rope is more gradual and is easier on you rope for repeated wear and it is redundant, which is good. the twist in the sling is to back up the bolts. If one failed and the twist wasnot there there is a chance that the suspended biners and rope could slide off the half twist bypasses this freak accident. common for trad and big all and adds further rundancy. you could aleo double up on the slings it never hurts and the potential fall does.

Never trust you life to a singel peice of gear!!
Word but OPM for any explinations

As to the first question:
If your girlfriend is afraid of heights, I would suggest that you give her 3 or 4 margueritas before she ties in. This will not only take the irrational edge off her acrophobia, but could also pay off in spades later on, after the climbing session is over. :lol:
Curt