|
russmanswife
Jan 12, 2004, 6:52 PM
Post #1 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 5, 2001
Posts: 344
|
yes i am going to a doctor get it confirmed but has anyone else every climbed with carpel tunnel? and does it aggravate it?
|
|
|
|
|
dsafanda
Jan 12, 2004, 7:54 PM
Post #2 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2002
Posts: 1025
|
CTS is the result of inflammed tendons or ligaments that pinch the nerve running through your wrist to your fingers. I would think that rockclimbing would be at the very top of the list of activities that could aggravate this condition. An MD or PT should be able to put you a rehabilitative track that makes sense and will let you get back to climbing as soon as possible.
|
|
|
|
|
russmanswife
Jan 12, 2004, 8:09 PM
Post #3 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 5, 2001
Posts: 344
|
i was afraid of that. it just started so i am trying to get it taken care of before it gets bad but i was also wanting to start climbing again soon after having my daughter, just didn't want to hear that i was going to have to wait longer.
|
|
|
|
|
cockjet
Jan 12, 2004, 8:14 PM
Post #4 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 6
|
Very common problem with climbers. Tendonitis is a very high occurence, especialy if we forget to warm up. I used to have a really bad arm.. every time I would boulder hard stuff the pain would start throbbing after a half hour. But I would keep on cranking thinking I was a though guy. Eventually it would get so painfull I would have to take a couple weeks off.
Finally I got into Progressive training at the climbing gym (6 weeks high rep low weight, 6 weeks cardio, 6 weeks low rep high weight...then back to the begining.) And also started doing yoga 45 minutes every day..especialy before bouldering or climbing outdoors. Ever since then, my arm only got stronger with more endurance. I really think yoga is effective, because alot of streches are working your tendons. If done properly, it preps your concentration and attention to detail as well, and climbing the hardest stuff sort of becomes relaxing.
All that to say that conditioning is an investment, a long term one, but a good one. Its alot of time and work but results come suprisingly quick!!!
rock on
|
|
|
|
|
corpse
Jan 12, 2004, 9:11 PM
Post #5 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2003
Posts: 822
|
To start with - certainly don't climb if you are experiencing pain - that goes without saying I suppose.
I'm 30 and have been actively programming for 15 years - and 5 years or so ago I started to get some "jolt-like" pains shoot through my arms and a few other cps symptoms.. I saw a doc and I was not straight up carpel-tunnel, but I was quickly on my way. It got to the point where even after 2 hours of working I would have to take a serious break (30+ minutes or more)..
Since I've gotten into climbing, I no longer have any of these carpel tunnel pains. Now, I never crank ultra hard - am I not into abusive climbing - I think the hardest I've sent is like a 10a.. But in the gym, I do lots of traversing around - and I think that endurance is really helping out.. and it doesn't seem to trash my arms or hands.. Even when I get nice and sore from a good work out, the next day I'm feeling good. Also, I work on slopers at much as possible - they are easier on the tendons than using little crimpers.
So I think climbing can certainly help carpel tunnel, but you just can't crank hard.. I know people that have climbed less time than me that can climber harder stuff - but thats ok.
Also, work some of those opposing muscles.. I've been using the metolius grip saver (that red foam ball with the rubber bands) - and that seems to help - just can't over due one or the other - but that will help in preventing tendonities.
edit: oh yeah - and like others have said, stretching has done me alot of good too! I stretch my wrists and fingers and shoulders - and I have *noticed* a difference..
Is there such a thing as elbow stretches?? seems weird.. Anyone with suggestions for helping to NICELY stretch our the lower back - I suffer from lower back pains alot (damn programming and sitting on my butt too long) - and I need some gentle stretches that won't hurt me more.
|
|
|
|
|
russmanswife
Jan 12, 2004, 9:32 PM
Post #6 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 5, 2001
Posts: 344
|
thanks everyone i know nothing about this i have never had a problem with it before and i just want to make sure i cover my bases. right now it only hurts while i am at work and is fine at home i think i am catching it early enough so hopefully it won't affect my climbing too much but i just didn't want to end up doing more damage to myself. we will see what the doctor suggest later this week i guess.
|
|
|
|
|
marcel
Jan 12, 2004, 9:53 PM
Post #7 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 30, 2002
Posts: 523
|
I have climbed with it for years. I have had 2 surgerys and been told to not climb. Yea, right! I've just learned to live with it and some of the side effects. Of course I don't climb as hard as I use to and I try to use my legs more, and try to stay away from small crimpers. I also try to give myself longer rest periods.
Good luck! I know how painful CTS can be.
P.S. The surgery did help, but it was not a cure all.
|
|
|
|
|
keste
Jan 14, 2004, 2:05 AM
Post #8 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2003
Posts: 20
|
I don't have carpal tunnel syndrome, but have had another repetitive stress injury dealing with the ulnar nerve in both arms. In general, regular gym exercise or indoor climbing alleviated most of my wrist/elbow pain. Sometimes when my wrists and arms get re-aggravated, its time to stop climbing until the pain goes away and wait impatiently and slowly work back up to the same level.. Or below the same level.. :(
The caveats are that I'm a light weight, pain avoidance weekly gym rat. :) The campus board is a piece of exercise equipment to be feared, plus, I can't do more than one pull up. I like doing my happy stretchies and warm up 5.9 climb/downclimbs.
On a side note, my HMO physician gave me wrist supports that I wore as directed which seriously ramped up the frequency and intensity of the pain in my arms. That sucked. We decided to take the metal supports out of those wrist braces and only wear them at night (to stop me from sleeping with my arms snuggled under my noggin'). Ahhh.. Much happiness.
|
|
|
|
|
dsafanda
Jan 14, 2004, 2:45 AM
Post #9 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2002
Posts: 1025
|
In reply to: I don't have carpal tunnel syndrome, but have had another repetitive stress injury dealing with the ulnar nerve in both arms.
Amazing. Someone else that has been through the hell I went through.
I tried for a couple of years to climb through the problem. I ended up having surgery on both elbows to release entrapped ulnar nerves.
|
|
|
|
|
fastestgun
Jan 14, 2004, 3:28 AM
Post #10 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2003
Posts: 11
|
I’ve dealt with CTS symptoms three times now due to THREE SEPARATE CAUSES. Each time was excruciatingly painful to the point where I would only get 2-3 hours of sleep a night. I learned that the most important thing to do is to see a lot of physical therapists (all the doctors want to do is cut) and try a lot of different PT exercises. I’m 100% healthy now, never had surgery (thank god), and am climbing stronger than ever (5.12/V6).
The first time I had it was when I injuried my elbow while XC skiing. I was trying to slow down on a downhill by reaching out and grabbing a tree (bad idea). Anyway, I did something to my ulnar nerve (I think) in my left elbow and after 3 months of no improvement finally recovered by doing bicep curls to failure everyday for ~2 months. For whatever reason, strong and tight biceps helped me heal.
The second time was when I started to follow 5.11’s. I had it in both wrists but once again, the nerve was stressed somewhere other than my wrists so it wasn’t actually CTS (although the symptoms are the same). I struggled with this problem for ~4 or 5 months until I noticed that when I sat for long periods with good posture, the pain subsided. I started doing yoga regularly and paying attention to posture, and this problem went away.
The third time was when I started bouldering a lot. The CTS symptoms corresponded with very sore and tight forearm muscles so I bought a kit from the CTS Institute in New York and started massaging my forearms everyday and doing reverse wrist curls. I still get sore forearms from bouldering, but I haven’t had a CTS symptom since.
Anyway, I know how you feel and DON’T GIVE UP. Keep trying new things and eventually something will work!!!
|
|
|
|
|
russmanswife
Jan 15, 2004, 6:50 PM
Post #11 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 5, 2001
Posts: 344
|
:D oh i am so glad just got back from the doctor and it isn't carpel tunnel yeah! i do have tendonitis in it though so i have to take advil and wear a splint for awhile. also got told to quit picking up my almost 3yr old son, yeah right not sure how i am going to get around that the kid can't even get the backseat of my jeep by himself!
|
|
|
|
|
dsafanda
Jan 15, 2004, 6:54 PM
Post #12 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2002
Posts: 1025
|
Be careful. Tendonitis isn't such a great thing to have either. If you just climb and climb and ignore the pain you'll develop severe tendonitis that can be just as debilitating as CST.
|
|
|
|
|
polishbob
Jan 19, 2004, 2:32 AM
Post #13 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2004
Posts: 58
|
In reply to: :D oh i am so glad just got back from the doctor and it isn't carpel tunnel yeah! i do have tendonitis in it though so i have to take advil and wear a splint for awhile. also got told to quit picking up my almost 3yr old son, yeah right not sure how i am going to get around that the kid can't even get the backseat of my jeep by himself! |
|
|
|
|
hanhosh
Feb 18, 2004, 10:58 PM
Post #14 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2004
Posts: 1
|
Not really sure if I have CTS, but my mom worked for an orthopedic surgeon who thought it was such. I've noticed lately that it's started flaring up again. I guess it doesn't help that I work on a computer all day as well... I often have throbbing pain in my wrist, all the way up to my shoulders. It wakes me up at night sometimes. Frustrating, but I love climbing and would definitely have a hard time staying away from it if a doctor said to.
|
|
|
|
|
sspssp
Feb 18, 2004, 11:44 PM
Post #15 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731
|
In reply to: Not really sure if I have CTS
I've been told that CTS is usually associated with tingling numbess in the wrist/palm. If you are getting shooting pains up your arm (particularly if they are on the top of the arm) and you are not geting any tingling/numbess, then it is more likely tendonitus (which I what I have periodically).
|
|
|
|
|
polishbob
Feb 19, 2004, 6:51 AM
Post #16 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2004
Posts: 58
|
In reply to: In reply to: Not really sure if I have CTS I've been told that CTS is usually associated with tingling numbess in the wrist/palm. If you are getting shooting pains up your arm (particularly if they are on the top of the arm) and you are not geting any tingling/numbess, then it is more likely tendonitus (which I what I have periodically). |
|
|
|
|
timpanogos
Feb 25, 2004, 11:36 PM
Post #17 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935
|
I’ve worked on computers for 25+ years, and cts has been nagging at the door for some time. I started working hitting the gym hard first of January and a lot of the discomfort lessoned after my forearms starting getting some strength/endurance back in them.
Last Sunday I was working out with some aid – thought I was warmed up well and jumped on a 5.10a lead on the overhung (my limit right now). I climbed with no noticeable pain or incident, but upon completing I had radiating pain that was hard to tell the source – a small point in the back of my elbow, middle finger ached the most – noticeable loss of closed fist strength – pain is caused my tightly closing fist.
I assumed maybe an awkward lock off on the elbow or something had irritated something.
I’ve iced and ib’ed during the week and most of the pain has subsided – but still taking it easy (RR weekend after next!) – to pull, push and touch – the only localized touch pain is in right smack in the middle of the back of my hand.
Not sure what the heck – any ideas what I might have aggrevated?
Chad
|
|
|
|
|
simianboy
Feb 25, 2004, 11:56 PM
Post #18 of 18
(5158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2003
Posts: 85
|
timpanogos,
Not sure if I had the same injury as you but it was in the same places when I tried to close my fist but mine was an injury sustained when trying to pull too hard. Unlike yours, it came suddenly when my finger decided it had had enough of cranking in the middle of a crux section of a difficult traverse.
At first, it was difficult to pinpoint where the pain was because it felt like it was in the middle and ring fingers as well as below them (in the palm and in the wrist). A week of resting and moderate range-of-motion exercises later, the pain was only in the fingers. Another week later, it was only in the ring finger and then I started climbing again (probably not a wise move in hindsight) below my previous grade because I didnt use my ring and little finger (too awkward to use the pinky without the ring finger). A couple of weeks later, everything seemed ok, so I started to try and use them again and now it's been about four months and everything is seems back to normal, except I'm careful now not to hop on just anything the younger hotshot gym boulderers are doing.
All I did was lots of resting and the occasional range-of-motion excercises when it wasn't painful.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
