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Climbing format changing - Sport to Bouldering - Why?
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endrizzi


Jan 20, 2004, 2:41 PM
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Climbing format changing - Sport to Bouldering - Why?
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Our local gym cancelled their annual sport climbing
competition. Instead they are having a bouldering
contest. They said bouldering is more popular now.

I thought the thrill of climbing comps was watching
weazels like me scream in fear as I fell 15 feet off
the last hold. I personally don't get the same thrill
watching someone fall two feet to the ground and
yell "F()*^((K".

What happened?

dreez


tart


Jan 20, 2004, 2:58 PM
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Re: Climbing format changing - Sport to Bouldering - Why? [In reply to]
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Many bouldering comps we've been to have "high balls", which are in excess of 12 feet, and sometimes up to 20 feet. Bouldering's short, dynamic moves are a lot more exciting to watch. Bouldering also doesn't require the gym to provide belayers.


pawilkes


Jan 20, 2004, 3:23 PM
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Re: Climbing format changing - Sport to Bouldering - Why? [In reply to]
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i never really worked at the local gym but everyone who did pretended i did so i am kinda on the inside. setting up any comp is a huge pain in the ass and takes lots of time and money. the gyms typically have to close down for a couple days before the comp which means loss of money and then afterwards they have a very limited number of climbs, a huge issue for birthday parties and such that make up a huge chuck of my gym's revenue. bouldering comps are easier to set up because routes aren't as long and staffing can be cut in half because they only need a judge and not the belayer as was mentioned. i am not a huge boulderer but i see their point. i think you should still do the comp, cause 6-8 foot unteathered falls are pretty cool, as long as their in the gym. outside those break legs :shock:


dingus


Jan 20, 2004, 3:27 PM
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Re: Climbing format changing - Sport to Bouldering - Why? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
What happened?

You got old.

DMT


lunatixx


Jan 20, 2004, 3:31 PM
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Re: Climbing format changing - Sport to Bouldering - Why? [In reply to]
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boulderring competitions also attracks more young people :) that buys gym t-shirts and water bottles.. i can imagine a boulder competition like a skate board happenning :) climbing is more show-off that way, its good for the gym's image ! my opinion :)

boulderers at my gym are like "la gang" its a very warm part of climbing!

i love it personnally... i would not go to a climbing competition


madriver


Jan 20, 2004, 7:56 PM
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Re: Climbing format changing - Sport to Bouldering - Why? [In reply to]
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...SR (Sport Rock) VA & MD came up with a unique format last year at their Subuaru Comp. They had a combined point total that included...

Bouldering = 40%
Difficulty (lead) = 40%
Speed = 20%

...it was pretty cool and they had "real time" scoring. You turned your red point score in after each climb and it was entered and up on a monitor for all to see. Afterwards they had beer, food, and five (count em) five LIVE bands!!! Check it out this year (Fall 04) if you get a chance.

Bob


rokshoxbkr19


Jan 20, 2004, 8:26 PM
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Re: Climbing format changing - Sport to Bouldering - Why? [In reply to]
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sounds awesome madriver. I will have to check it out. You say fall of this year huh?


climbhigh2005


Jan 21, 2004, 11:44 AM
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Re: Climbing format changing - Sport to Bouldering - Why? [In reply to]
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I've noticed this too.. I havent even haerd of a climbing competition that wasnt boudlering lately... sadly bouldering isn't my strongest point


Partner phaedrus


Jan 25, 2004, 8:13 PM
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Re: Climbing format changing - Sport to Bouldering - Why? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
What happened?

You got old.

DMT

Which only reinforces my personal theory of why bouldering is (generally) better liked by the younger crowd vs. roped climbing:

Bouldering is a lot like having sex when you're a teenager: fun, exciting, and over real fast. :wink: :lol:


tart


Jan 26, 2004, 1:24 PM
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Re: Climbing format changing - Sport to Bouldering - Why? [In reply to]
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Yeah, our kids live in an "instant gratification" world -- bouldering provides that quick rush without the lengthy process of working through a route!


wildduck


Jan 26, 2004, 2:55 PM
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Re: Climbing format changing - Sport to Bouldering - Why? [In reply to]
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I think it's the fact that it's the fairer of the both. It combines all the qualities of a climber. like Strenght, Endurance, Co-ordination, Technique and many more.

Boulderers can't rest on the belayer either. In X games championships, there are 2 categories for sport climbing. One of them is the speed climb and the other is bouldering. No top rope difficulty section.


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