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codey
Feb 24, 2002, 10:25 PM
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What can I do to get to climbing competitions? Real ones. I recently went to one that was on the honor system and everyone cheated.
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compclimber
Feb 24, 2002, 11:35 PM
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Being your age and climbing as hard as you say you do, I would be a little surprised if you haven't heard of the JCCA... well the USCCA, they revamped the system... and are now allowing adults to compete as well. But if you haven't, here's the link.
It sucks that people cheat, most don't but there are a few bad apples out there that would rather take a high place cheating than actually train.
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pianomahnn
Feb 24, 2002, 11:44 PM
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I cheat all the time. I can only climb V0-, but at comps I'm ticking off V12 problems.
I'm also 300 pounds.
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orestes1724
Feb 24, 2002, 11:58 PM
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pianomahn your a loser
[ This Message was edited by: orestes1724 on 2002-04-10 08:45 ]
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crazyiv69
Feb 25, 2002, 12:10 AM
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If anyone is interested there is a comp in Springfield, MO. Its called he CRUX FEST its an awesome event and is held in april normally on the 20th every year.
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colin
Feb 25, 2002, 12:42 AM
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Cheating can be a problem at comps but most of the climbers know what actually happened and who deserves what.
For the comps at my gym you ALWAYS have an employee watching you so cheating doesn't occur too much.
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codey
Feb 25, 2002, 12:42 PM
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I have heard of JCCA! The comp with everyone cheating was an ABS. The gym owners should have put in age groups and then som thing to keep you from cheeting. Are all comps like this. I have been to a few others but they were similar.
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vaness
Feb 28, 2002, 1:49 AM
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are you sure all the people were cheating at an ABS comp? you said that it was run by the "honer system" unless im wrong the ABS isnt just honer system
or i could just not be clear on what you mean by honer system
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ryhawk
Mar 20, 2002, 3:58 PM
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dude, this message is to crazyiv69. i live in springfield,MO too. i'm just starting to climb and i'd like some more info on the CRUX FEST. is it at Petra climbing gym?
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madscientist
Mar 20, 2002, 4:22 PM
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All the comps I have been to have a judge that determines if you have completed a climb. You give your scorecard to a judge, and the judge tells you when you can start climbing, and when you are finished. He then marks the score on your card and gives the card back to you. Is this the system they use in the ABS? What are people doing to cheat? I have never seen anyone cheat.
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rck_climber
Mar 20, 2002, 4:49 PM
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I've had the opportunity to "judge" two JCCA comps in the past, and I can tell you the only "honor" system portion is when you sign up as a beginner, intermediate or expert. Other than that, as a judge, my only job was to watch the kids send the routes or problems to verify it. If it wasn't witnessed by a "judge", it wasn't climbed.
Sounds like a poorly run event - that's a shame.
Mick
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fiend
Mar 20, 2002, 5:49 PM
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I've only been to one ABS comp and there were a few people cheating
EG:
-asking witnesses to sign off on an onsight where the climber barely slapped the finishing holds nevermind matching.
-sending problems by using (obvious) out of bounds holds or features.
One of the people I saw just didn't know any better (i think) but there were a few morons blatantly cheating.
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madriver
Mar 20, 2002, 6:37 PM
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ABS comps are all run differently. I have been to gyms (Phily Rock Gym) where its run like a JCCA event. They also know how to run an event. Their Midnight Burn Comp is one of the best run events anywhere! No cheating going on there. Other gyms run ABS comps like a free for all. It can be fun, (Earthtreks in MD.) runs a wild high energy ABS comp complete with DJ's. Super fun but total chaos and room for cheaters. ABS does not govern how events or routes are setup. PRG sets routes for everyones ability which makes it fun for everyone. Other gyms have routes setters that want to make statements. Incredibly hard route setting (I think) promotes cheating. I.E - some comps set 1/2/and 3 point totals for a problem. Flashing the route gets you the highest point total, redpoint down to the lowest. Some gyms say deduct (1) point for each failed try. This system can promote cheating and does. ABS is grass routes vehicle to promote bouldering comps with a fairly loose set of guidelines. They are for the most part incredibly fun (depending on the gym). Climb true to yourself and have fun. Worrying about everybody else will only spoil it! Whew - thats the most ranting I've done in a while. Anyway, a subject I'm somewhat passionate about (no kidding).
Mad River
[ This Message was edited by: madriver on 2002-03-20 11:20 ]
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jcclimber
Mar 20, 2002, 7:24 PM
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JCCA and ABS Comps are usually well organized and cheating is kept at a minimum. JCCA Comps especially have a zero tolerance for cheating, and it is closely watched!
Jake out
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codey
Mar 20, 2002, 11:40 PM
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What happened was you wrote down the rout you did and they beleived you.
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stigonrock
Mar 21, 2002, 12:22 AM
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'What can I do to get to climbing competitions? Real ones. I recently went to one that was on the honor system and everyone cheated'.
Man..I was surprised to read the above comment. Here in the UK I've done a few Regional bouldering comps but I've not seen much cheating. Regardless the 'cheats' never win anyhow, so how does it work in the USA. How can a 'cheat' win or qualify? Seriously, does that happen?
Am I soooo naive
Ang
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