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daryl314
Jan 28, 2004, 6:40 PM
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Has anyone experimented with setting up a less than full-size campus board? I have about 2 feet of space above a doorway, and I've been wondering if it would be worthwhile to put a couple of rungs up there. Might not be as interesting to bounce between two rungs, but would it be possible to get a good workout in that way? (Maybe doing sets of double-up double-down?) Anyone tried doing somethign like this?
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psirro
Jan 28, 2004, 7:12 PM
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i have the same problem...do you know what is the most common distance beetwen rugs which are about 1cm thick?
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hema
Jan 28, 2004, 7:16 PM
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Get a finger board instead.
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daryl314
Jan 28, 2004, 7:21 PM
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In reply to: Get a finger board instead.
Already have a fingerboard with some supplemental pinches and crimps bolted around it. Fingerboards are great for building static contact strength, but I'm looking to add some dynamic "catching" to my workout. Yes, I've seen the video of Dave Graham campusing on a fingerboard, but I don't think the holds on my Metolius Simulator are well suited to campusing.
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marks
Feb 2, 2004, 7:48 PM
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in 2 foot of space you could have 3 rungs.have it overhaging with first knuckle size holds.doing a 1-2-3 and reversing it,also hang 1 touch 2 back to 1 upto 3 back to 1 upto 2 back to 1.leading with each hand will be good
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collegekid
Feb 3, 2004, 12:48 AM
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"Already have a fingerboard with some supplemental pinches and crimps bolted around it. Fingerboards are great for building static contact strength, but I'm looking to add some dynamic "catching" to my workout. Yes, I've seen the video of Dave Graham campusing on a fingerboard, but I don't think the holds on my Metolius Simulator are well suited to campusing."
Ummm...Actually, the Metolius simulator is about as good as a hangboard gets when it comes to campusing. I've been doing all sorts of campusing sequences on it (once i've warmed up through dead hangs and pull ups).
Here's some moves to try on the simulator:
--Starting from the bottom/middle crimp, go up the middle holds (two crimps, two big pockets, and the good slopers) one hand at a time, matching on each hold and alternating which hand goes first, until you get to the slopers...then, dyno both hands to the outermost jugs, then back to the slopers, then back down the crimpers.
--hang from the smallest bottom crimp, then dyno both hands to either the good sloper, or if you're really strong, the bad sloper.
You can campus all over the thing once you get to a certain base level of strength.
I'm not sure what you mean by "the holds aren't good for campusing," however if you feel those are too small to be campused on, you shouldn't be campusing in the first place. Obviously it's not ideal for campusing...but neither is a 2 foot tall campus board.
One suggestion: Have you tried extending the plywood of your proposed campus board down below the level of the door frame? You could extend it as much as a foot without it getting in the way, or build a removeable extention that drops down to the middle of the door. Have you considered making your campus board removeable? I imagine you could get as many as 6-8 rungs on it that way. Just put a couple of lag bolts in above the door and make some well-fitted slots in the back of the campus board so that it slides on. In fact, this is giving me ideas for when i get burned out on my hang board :D
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superfox
Feb 3, 2004, 1:13 AM
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I didn't really understand collegekid's suggestion, so this idea may be the exact same.
If you have a closet that isn't too full, you could just have a piece of plywood that is as tall as the ceiling, but that could be leaned against the moulding of the closet door. Of course, you would need a closet with dimensions like this to do it, but I think it's reasonably common (at least it is in my house). This way, to use it, you pull it down so the bottom is pushed against the back wall, and the top is leaned on the wall in front, so it is overhanging. When you finish using it, just push it against the back wall and you will have most of your closet space left. To get more rungs, you could start sitting down, and you could get a bunch of rungs on it.
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collegekid
Feb 3, 2004, 1:43 AM
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I like superfox's suggestion, however that won't leave enough head clearance or leg swinging room for the dynamic movements involved in campusing.
All i'm saying is that you bolt a peice of plywood on above the door frame, such that the bottom hangs down into the open space where the door would be. Instead of limiting the campus board to the 2 feet of space above the door, use the space below the door frame as well. In fact, in gyms, campus boards are usually attached to a wall in some way, such that they are sort-of hanging off of the wall. Just create a miniaturized version.
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superfox
Feb 3, 2004, 2:22 AM
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Ah, now I understand. The only problem I see with that is that if the board is vertical, it sucks trying to campus up it because your forearms will hit the board, and it is easier that if it were overhanging. But you're right, not much leg-swinging space with my idea. It is only a concept, I haven't done it (yet).
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acronis
Feb 3, 2004, 2:41 AM
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Do you have a backyard with some trees? If so, just build a backer...
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daryl314
Feb 4, 2004, 11:24 PM
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In reply to: Ummm...Actually, the Metolius simulator is about as good as a hangboard gets when it comes to campusing. I've been doing all sorts of campusing sequences on it (once i've warmed up through dead hangs and pull ups). Here's some moves to try on the simulator: --Starting from the bottom/middle crimp, go up the middle holds (two crimps, two big pockets, and the good slopers) one hand at a time, matching on each hold and alternating which hand goes first, until you get to the slopers...then, dyno both hands to the outermost jugs, then back to the slopers, then back down the crimpers. --hang from the smallest bottom crimp, then dyno both hands to either the good sloper, or if you're really strong, the bad sloper. You can campus all over the thing once you get to a certain base level of strength. I'm not sure what you mean by "the holds aren't good for campusing," however if you feel those are too small to be campused on, you shouldn't be campusing in the first place. Obviously it's not ideal for campusing...but neither is a 2 foot tall campus board.
But is that really campusing? The holds aren't all that far apart on the simulator. I was hoping to have consistent holds to use, and it seems that campusing on the simulator would involve moving from one hold to a different one. That and I was thinking you'd have to be mighty precise to stick your fingers in a slot and latch onto it without whacking the top of it. I'm not all that concerned about the hold size, but I don't think i'm ready to campus on 2 finger pockets quite yet. Extending below the doorframe is an intriguing idea.
I guess what I want to know now is whether you could get a decent (although boring) workout with a 3-rung campus board.
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muncher
Feb 4, 2004, 11:41 PM
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You probably could but as was suggested before maybe just try campusing on your fingerboard. If your not quite strong enough then maybe wait until you are, you don't want to hurt yourself but I find that a little campusing on my metolius board provides a good workout. At least the holds get bigger as you go up. As for having trouble sticking the pocket moves, this can only help your climbing, accuracy is important.
That said, I don't see why you couldn't get a decent workout from a three rung campus board, it will only be small and pretty easy to make so if you don't like it then no great loss huh. If it gives you the chance to do some campusing that you are not strong enough to do on your finger board then go for it.
And yeah it will probably be boring but so is pretty much all indoor training, you just have to concentrate on how it will help you send something later, how it is making you a better climber.
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xanx
Feb 21, 2004, 7:46 PM
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seems like that will really be good for is doubling from the top to the bottom....
i woudl have gone w/ the fingerbord campusing. u can get MAD STRONG doubling between slopers, pinches, and crimps (just stay open hand!). Throw in some pockets if u have good accuracy, and a jug once in a while for good measure. What i did is i screwed my door jam into the wall so it wouldn't come off and mounted my hang board as close to the ceiling as possible so i had a lot of room between the door jam crimps and hte top of my board. very interesting to double from the top of my board down into the door jam crimps (about 3/4 of a pad w/ the edge rounded off).
good luck w/ what u got anyway...
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