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jonoj
Jan 15, 2002, 11:29 AM
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At the time I bought myself a pair of la Sportiva Makalu mountain boots, I was told that due to the fully rigid sole, they would be suitable for step-in crampons. I have since heard conflicting reports, that they should be used with strap-on crampons.
Anyone know for sure, whether I can in fact use step-in crampons with these?
Jono
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atg200
Jan 15, 2002, 3:19 PM
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I've used rigid crampons with Makalus before, and never had a problem. Make sure you try your crampons on your boots before buying them. Some crampons fit certain boots better than others-much like rock shoes.
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jonoj
Jan 16, 2002, 6:03 AM
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That is fabulous news - thanks! I've been offered a good deal on some Charlet Moser Bi-points (rigid), which fit my boots well - just haven't had the opportunity to test 'em in the field, so to speak. Being in South Africa, there's usually not much ice available expect in the thick of winter in the Drakensberg mountains. Will be heading there this winter for my first ice climbing experience! Can't wait!!
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ravens_wing_jim
Jan 22, 2002, 5:59 AM
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I'm now on my 2nd pair of makalu's,
and can tell you from my experiance with
them, that once they break in, your better
off using strap-ons over step-ins.
Sure their step-in crampon compatible,
at first.
Keep in mind that I'm extremely hard on
my boots(did I mention I'm on my 2nd pair?)
But once their worn in, theres too much flex
in the ball of the foot(not really favorable
to step-ins).
But in my opinion, yer always gonna be
better off in plastic's for step-ins anyway.
[ This Message was edited by: ravens_wing_jim on 2002-01-21 22:00 ]
[ This Message was edited by: ravens_wing_jim on 2002-01-21 22:04 ]
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saltspringer
Jan 22, 2002, 7:05 AM
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I use Charlet Moser 10 point strap-on crampons for general mountaineering and they're great...I think that if you want to get in to more technical ice then plastic is the way to go.
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beyond_gravity
Feb 2, 2002, 9:50 PM
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i use BD switchblades, there great, but then again, so are my Camp LC40's (i think thats what there called) It doesnt matter weather you use technical ice crampons or alpine strap ons.
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bradhill
Mar 22, 2002, 10:29 PM
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There is a difference between step in and rigid crampons. Nearly all rigid crampons are step-in, but there are flexible crampons with a wide variety of binding types.
Makalus are step-in crampon compatible. Step-in bindings are lot easier to use but can come off sometimes. It's a personal preference issue, mostly.
However, you should NOT use rigid crampons with Makalus. By rigid crampons I mean vertical-rail crampons designed for technical vertical waterfall ice. Makalus only have a 3/4 steel shank and the soles do flex. On a vertical rail, ridid crampon, this flexing will stress and cause metal fatigue and your crampon frame will eventually break. Rigid crampons should only be used with extremely rigid boots. (Plastics or full shank leather boots like the Lhotse, K3, Nepal or Trango series)
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tanderson
Apr 3, 2002, 3:06 AM
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Makalu's work fine with most rigid crampons. Camp footfangs need the front bail modified for them, Charlet Moser's fit them just fine. Grivel's work fine with them. Not sure about Black Diamond. I've used Makalu's with rigids for about 6 years now and no problems. I havn't broke a crampon with them yet. Mixed climbing broke/wore out my crampons long before the boots ever could! I've had Camp's fall off (front bail problem mentioned above). They should work fine and will work fine for at least several years. I also use Trango Extremes, Nepal Tops and Nepal Extremes. I'm a big fan of Sportiva boots! Hope this helps.
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