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andyw
Jan 28, 2004, 1:19 AM
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how in the world do you hold onto them? its next to impossible. especialy when you have a really hard route. does anyone have any type of technique for holding onto them or is it just practice and strength? or even a combo of both.
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flyinghatchet
Jan 29, 2004, 2:44 AM
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yeah they're really sloppy :wink:
just train, train, train slopers. i don't know any better way. keep incorporating them in lots of traverses in the cave at your gym.
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scubasnyder
Jan 29, 2004, 2:48 AM
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on a lot of slopers different contact can be made to make the holds easier to hold onto, but to get really good at climbing on slopers you must train a lot on them. Ask your local route setter or someone in charge if they could add more slopers in the routes and most likely they will.
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bnjohns
Jan 29, 2004, 3:52 AM
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The general idea seems to be to identify the plumb line, that is, the vertical line down from where your hand is touching the rock, and make sure that you're maximizing pressure in that direction. Also, keep that contact steady and stable, even if the rest of your body is moving, say, to grab another hold.
Lots of times, when I find myself slipping off a sloper, it's because I've shifted my weight and am no longer maximizing vertical pressure.
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curt
Jan 29, 2004, 3:55 AM
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Do you really mean sloppers, like true "2 baggers?" If so, why would you want to hold onto them anyway? :lol: :lol: :lol:
Curt
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aklaunch
Jan 29, 2004, 4:01 AM
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i think it is all about keeping the weight on your feet. so you dont need to have such a good hand hold.
i have buddys who boulder V10. they can campuss the things. i think they are just extremely strong. but also know all about weight transfer.
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hippie_dreams
Jan 29, 2004, 4:08 AM
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the biggest key to using slopers (sloppers whichever way you spell it) is to remember that they are all body position. Think of where your body is relative to how you're holding on. The plumbline thing is pretty correct, I would just say think of the surface your holding onto -- you, ideally, want to pull normal (perpendicular) to that surface.
Anyhow, train train and train -- traverses are the best for it too.
Eric
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bnjohns
Jan 29, 2004, 4:14 AM
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In reply to: the biggest key to using slopers (sloppers whichever way you spell it) is to remember that they are all body position. Think of where your body is relative to how you're holding on. The plumbline thing is pretty correct, I would just say think of the surface your holding onto -- you, ideally, want to pull normal (perpendicular) to that surface. Anyhow, train train and train -- traverses are the best for it too. Eric
Good point -- opposition!!
:D
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overlord
Jan 29, 2004, 1:25 PM
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body tension and good technique. contact strenght also helps.
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coolmn
Jan 31, 2004, 8:06 PM
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I still have trouble with them, and they probably will always give me trouble. I noticed i started improving on my sloppers when i someone told me to work my palm muscles. So i started using the chinese balls and twirl them around all the time. Also those squeeze bars. I noticed i was hanging on sloppers that i never could before. So give that a shot.
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thinksinpictures
Jan 31, 2004, 8:37 PM
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In reply to: contact strenght [sic] also helps.
contact strength: A term used by climbers to describe a force somewhere between friction and magic.
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legless
Feb 1, 2004, 8:06 AM
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In reply to: So i started using the chinese balls and twirl them around all the time.
and makes for a happy chinaman i suppose
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thinksinpictures
Feb 6, 2004, 4:15 PM
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In reply to: ...and makes for a happy chinaman i suppose
"The chinaman is not the issue here, dude. I'm talking about drawing a line in the sand, dude. Across this line, you Do Not... Also, dude, chinaman is not the preferred nomenclature. Asian-American, please."
-The Big Lebowski
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mustclimb69
Feb 6, 2004, 4:33 PM
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Try to maintain as much contact with the grip as possible and apply directional pressure with your albobs pinting the was you want to pull and close to the wall this helpd off set the slop-ey ness. Committ and try to put more pressure on the "easier grips".
Just come to my house and Ill teach you! this is hard to explain
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climbsomething
Feb 6, 2004, 5:09 PM
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Sloper- after rappelling/rappel/rap, the most misspelled term in the climbing lexicon.
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jkarns
Feb 6, 2004, 5:26 PM
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I find that the trick to slopers is to figure out how to hold onto them. Very commonly, the best way is not to just pull straight down. Rather you need to figure out where the sloper is most positive and pull in a line perpendicular to that surface. Then you need to figure out where the rest of your body needs to be positioned to make the pull in that diraction worthwhile. There's a lot of "figuring out" involved. Finally, set the hand carfully and delibrately and try to hold it steady and not readjust. i find that it is almost useless to try to readjust on really bad slopers. If I don't hit it perfect, I'm done.
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gregtrammell
Feb 6, 2004, 5:55 PM
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it's all about the friction, you want to have as much force distributed over the surface of your hand that is in contact with the hold. body position and body tention are also very important.
the best way to get better is to try and see what makes it easiest for you to hold on to them.
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karmaklimber
Feb 6, 2004, 6:14 PM
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In reply to: the biggest key to using slopers (sloppers whichever way you spell it) is to remember that they are all body position. Think of where your body is relative to how you're holding on. The plumbline thing is pretty correct, I would just say think of the surface your holding onto -- you, ideally, want to pull normal (perpendicular) to that surface.
THANK YOU! Finally, someone who knows what they're talking about...
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reprieve
Feb 6, 2004, 6:26 PM
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I think it also takes a lot of contact strength to hold on to slopers. The more experienced climbers probably don't even think about that anymore since it seems so natural, but for we noobies it takes some finger strength.
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andy_reagan
Feb 6, 2004, 8:08 PM
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get a fingerboard with two slopers and train on that. I suck at slopers. :oops:
But I'm pretty damn good at those tiny assed crimps. :lol:
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legless
Feb 9, 2004, 9:01 AM
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were not talkin about the guys who built the railroad here....
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