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cliffhanger9
Moderator
Feb 6, 2004, 10:07 PM
Post #26 of 41
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 2275
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yes. it really is the best
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fredbob
Feb 6, 2004, 10:22 PM
Post #27 of 41
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Registered: Mar 7, 2003
Posts: 455
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For years I climbed in Boreal shoes, but since the introduction of Fusion 3, I would actually have a half resole done on my Boreals with C4 right after I bought them. I like C4. And, yes, Fusion 3 was that bad.
But having now compared C4 with Evolve's newest rubber (and their shoes), IMO Evolve's rubber has a small performance edge (no pun intended) over C4 and seems to last a bit longer too.
The Evolve shoes (particularly the Rage and a new lace up version of the Rage) are now my favorite shoes.
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aznrockclimber82
Feb 6, 2004, 11:12 PM
Post #28 of 41
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Registered: Nov 5, 2002
Posts: 212
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HF is pretty harsh stuff. C4 is what I started on, but I would have to agree with Deryl.....HF is the shizz, That stuff can stick pretty sick on some small jibs...course that has alot to do with the shoe...but I would stick with HF just in case it adds a "little something" to stickin anything erroneous.
Gecko's Rule
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gregr
Feb 8, 2004, 2:32 PM
Post #29 of 41
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 49
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In my opinion, Sportiva's XSV rubber is a better performer than Stealth rubber.
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billydude
Feb 9, 2004, 11:34 PM
Post #30 of 41
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Registered: Jan 26, 2004
Posts: 84
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hey, dont mad rocks wear easily? i havent heard too many favorable reviews
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curt
Feb 9, 2004, 11:57 PM
Post #31 of 41
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
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Here is another observation. 5.10's C4 rubber works best when the temperature is fairly cold--around 50 degrees F, I believe. The Mad Rock compound used on the Phoenix and Flash (not the dual-density stuff) claims to be optimal from 60 degrees to 85 degrees F., according to a booklet that comes with the shoes. So, if you really want to be anal about it--switch shoes on a seasonal basis to optimize performance. :wink:
Curt
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dirtineye
Feb 10, 2004, 4:06 AM
Post #32 of 41
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
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In reply to: Here is another observation. 5.10's C4 rubber works best when the temperature is fairly cold--around 50 degrees F, I believe. The Mad Rock compound used on the Phoenix and Flash (not the dual-density stuff) claims to be optimal from 60 degrees to 85 degrees F., according to a booklet that comes with the shoes. So, if you really want to be anal about it--switch shoes on a seasonal basis to optimize performance. :wink: Curt
I have observed that C4 on a hot day will roll and even tear a little, while la sportiva xvs vibram will work great, but in cold, as in 45 F, the c4 is superior.
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fischer
Feb 10, 2004, 5:31 AM
Post #33 of 41
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Registered: Dec 4, 2003
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I feel alot more confident about my foot placements with C4. I just got my Cobras resoled with it and its the best!
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onsabbatical
Feb 10, 2004, 6:28 AM
Post #34 of 41
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Registered: Nov 20, 2003
Posts: 26
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somebody...wait, lots of people have said they resole their new boreals with C4...
my question is: how do u 'rip off' the boreal rubber? or is that something the resoler does?
that's all, thank you and come again.
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sixter
Feb 10, 2004, 7:16 AM
Post #35 of 41
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Registered: May 25, 2003
Posts: 262
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In reply to: i think i'm going to spring for the Evolv velcros. My anasazi velcros are near falling apart and i've only had them 3months.
If they fit, get them. I finally sprung for a pair, now that Nomad Ventures carries them, and I could try them on before I bought them. I was very pleased with the performace they gave. I felt secure on little nubins. They edged quite nicely for me. I might send my mad rocks to Yosemite Bum to be resoled in their rubber, I never felt secure edging with them. :roll:
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adeptus
Feb 10, 2004, 8:39 AM
Post #36 of 41
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Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 322
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I normally climb with a pair of Boreal Zen. They fit good and they preform well on positive edges, but when it comes to smearing they stink!
I just bought a pair of Anasazi Velcros and I swear never to go back. Not only can I stand on edges I couldnīt before, but they smear like crazy.
I love Stealth C4 rubber.
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randisi
Feb 10, 2004, 1:28 PM
Post #37 of 41
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Registered: Feb 9, 2004
Posts: 15
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This may be the time to state the obvious.
If we're arguing over whether one rubber is better than another, then rubber is aid!
You'd be amazed at how well people climbed in those roller skates called EB's and PA's, let alone zillerthals and Kronhoffers. I remember when the Fire first came out in '82(?). It was the first boot with sticky rubber, and it changed the ratings of many of the slab climbs in Tuolumne. Where once there was a crux, now you could chalk up and rest.
In fact, most rubber used on modern climbing boots is the same. Blind taste tests have shown that climbers who are told that one shoe has a special rubber on it and that the other is only soled with some common rubber will claim the special rubber boot out-performed the other - even though they are in fact the same!
Also once rubber oxydizes and gets dirty most differences between climbing boot rubber evens out.
More and more I've been enjoying climbing bare foot. You know, except for edging, skin makes a damn fine rubber. It has excellent friction, though you may have to chalk it a little. I love the sensual feel of the sandstone under my toes (though like your fingers your 'tips' can get blown).
Seriously folks, quite quibbling over mere technology.
Randy
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styndall
Feb 10, 2004, 1:44 PM
Post #38 of 41
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Registered: May 29, 2002
Posts: 2741
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In reply to: If we're arguing over whether one rubber is better than another, then rubber is aid!
If we're arguing over whether one type of training is better than another, then training is aid.
:)
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randisi
Feb 10, 2004, 5:09 PM
Post #39 of 41
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Registered: Feb 9, 2004
Posts: 15
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Styndall gets an F in my critical thinking class!
Randy
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deadpointman
Feb 11, 2004, 11:37 AM
Post #40 of 41
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Registered: Apr 20, 2003
Posts: 176
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In reply to: Seriously folks, quite quibbling over mere technology. Randy
This is the Gear Heads forum--it's what we do best (aside from climbing). :)
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sherwood_climber
Feb 12, 2004, 3:05 AM
Post #41 of 41
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 9
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I have a pair of steaths, very very old, older then me infact. Probably the most durable. The shoes I have are about 16+ years old. The rubber just started to wear through, the shoes aren't for overhangs so it has thick leather, I can still wear them even thought the front end is misiing all the rubber.
I would have to say that madrock has the stickest rubber though, very undurible. only people ,the smartest organisms climbs rocks for fun
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