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adventureman
Feb 6, 2004, 1:07 AM
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Already posted this in "regional discussion" but it belongs here too:
Figured I'd post this, since there wasn't a specific post for it yet. The new ICC (Indoor Climbing Center) opened on January 28th and it's huge! Here's some more specific info by the company that designed it:
http://www.epusa.com/.docs/pg/311
So far it's been great! A little crowded right now because of the requirement that everyone take a "skills test and orientation" before climbing (even bouldering). Reason for this is that it's a brand-new center, much taller (42ft high) and is directly under the eye of RecSports at OSU (the old ICC was a bit more autonomous). Also, their using ATC's for belay devices now instead of 8's.
Cost: free if you're a student; $5 if you're a "community member" or non-student (like me). Or, $70 per term, which comes out to a helluva lot cheaper than $5 per climb. I've got all the info for "community members" so PM me if interested.
If you're in Corvallis and need to climb, I highly recommend checking it out!
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rei_belay_bitch
Feb 11, 2004, 9:46 PM
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In reply to: Cost: free if you're a student; $5 if you're a "community member" or non-student (like me). Or, $70 per term, which comes out to a helluva lot cheaper than $5 per climb. I've got all the info for "community members" so PM me if interested.
Is the climbing gym in it's own seperate building or in the rec center? How was the climbing gym funded...state $ or through student fees?
The reason I ask is that my alma mater's (Boise State University) new climbing gym is located in the rec center which was funded by student fees. The old climbing gym was located in the back of one of the older buildings on campus and thus was "open" to non-students.
One of the main complaints of the former climbing gym's users is that if you are not a student...it is harder to get in. One must come in as a guest of a current Rec Center member (students, faculty, alumni, etc.). Whereas with the old climbing gym you can just come in and pay your $3 and you are good to go.
Right now our gym is SLAMMED throughout the week. The peak is usually around 8pm when upwards of 50-60 folks are in there. :eek: So I don't know if opening up the wall to the entire SW Idaho climbing community is a smart idea RIGHT NOW cuz there's so many people in there. But on the other hand, this damn wall is NICE and IMNSHO can become a valuable asset to the climbing community around here.
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dynoguy
Feb 11, 2004, 9:52 PM
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This place is awesome! I've been there just about everday since it opened. Yeah maybe I'm a bit of a gym rat now, but its free.
They are having a comp in the last weekend of febuary bouldering and toproping
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rockprodigy
Feb 11, 2004, 10:26 PM
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pics?
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adventureman
Feb 11, 2004, 11:11 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Cost: free if you're a student; $5 if you're a "community member" or non-student (like me). Or, $70 per term, which comes out to a helluva lot cheaper than $5 per climb. I've got all the info for "community members" so PM me if interested. Is the climbing gym in it's own seperate building or in the rec center? How was the climbing gym funded...state $ or through student fees? The reason I ask is that my alma mater's (Boise State University) new climbing gym is located in the rec center which was funded by student fees. The old climbing gym was located in the back of one of the older buildings on campus and thus was "open" to non-students. One of the main complaints of the former climbing gym's users is that if you are not a student...it is harder to get in. One must come in as a guest of a current Rec Center member (students, faculty, alumni, etc.). Whereas with the old climbing gym you can just come in and pay your $3 and you are good to go. Right now our gym is SLAMMED throughout the week. The peak is usually around 8pm when upwards of 50-60 folks are in there. :eek: So I don't know if opening up the wall to the entire SW Idaho climbing community is a smart idea RIGHT NOW cuz there's so many people in there. But on the other hand, this damn wall is NICE and IMNSHO can become a valuable asset to the climbing community around here.
It's in the main Dixon Rec Center complex, the main sports/rec complex on campus. Thus, a ton more people compared to when it was buried underneath the stadium for years.
I can get in whenever I want, doesn't matter if you're a student or not for priority. However, since they're still doing scheduled orientations, they've been at capacity most evenings at 5 when I get off work. Should clear up in the next week as they get people in and the students who are doing it "just because" lose interest.
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adventureman
Feb 11, 2004, 11:12 PM
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Can't find any online except one really bad one before it was finished. I'll try and take my camera sometime soon and see what I can do.
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rei_belay_bitch
Feb 11, 2004, 11:28 PM
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In reply to: It's in the main Dixon Rec Center complex, the main sports/rec complex on campus. Thus, a ton more people compared to when it was buried underneath the stadium for years. I can get in whenever I want, doesn't matter if you're a student or not for priority.
So the entire rec center is open to the general public? Was the rec center built with student fees or state $? I don't know where I stand on rec centers being "open" to the general public. Do you know what the percentage is of "general public" folks is compared to OSU folks in the rec center?
I must say though that I was GRATEFUL that I was able to get into the Arizona State rec center back in the days...man that place was nice.
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adventureman
Feb 11, 2004, 11:31 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: It's in the main Dixon Rec Center complex, the main sports/rec complex on campus. Thus, a ton more people compared to when it was buried underneath the stadium for years. I can get in whenever I want, doesn't matter if you're a student or not for priority. So the entire rec center is open to the general public? Was the rec center built with student fees or state $? I don't know where I stand on rec centers being "open" to the general public. Do you know what the percentage is of "general public" folks is compared to OSU folks in the rec center? I must say though that I was GRATEFUL that I was able to get into the Arizona State rec center back in the days...man that place was nice.
To the best of my knowledge, only the climbing center is open to the general public and you have to either be sponsored by a student or do a term-long pass (like I have). No one (other than students) can just walk in and use the facilities. Near as I know, I'm the only community member who currently uses the climbing center (other than student-sponsored non-students).
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rockprodigy
Feb 18, 2004, 1:56 AM
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I got to climb there this weekend. It's a nice gym for a shopping mall, but they totally blew it.
Do you know they paid $500,000 for that?
I coulda designed a much better gym for a tenth of that price. It's nice they have 60 ft topropes, but when you put all of your square footage straight up, it really limits the number of climbers who can be in there at a time. Furthermore, since they only have one exit, the fire code only allows 75 people in there at once. Oops.
Finally, the route setting is pretty bad right now, it will probably get better over time, but when I was there, all the holds were jugs that were pointing straight up...very creative.
It's too bad they wasted so much money...I prefered the old gym under Parker Stadium.
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adventureman
Feb 18, 2004, 4:18 PM
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In reply to: It's nice they have 60 ft topropes, but when you put all of your square footage straight up, it really limits the number of climbers who can be in there at a time.
Yeah, I ran into this again on Tuesday when I went to go bouldering (which is pretty much all I do there since I don't have a partner and my wife works nights).
In reply to: Furthermore, since they only have one exit, the fire code only allows 75 people in there at once. Oops.
This one kinda pisses me off; since it's been open and I've done my "orientation" I've only gotten in twice (that's on Tues or Thur since Feb 2nd) including my orientation. Tuesday night wasn't too bad, but it was getting full.
In reply to: It's too bad they wasted so much money...I prefered the old gym under Parker Stadium.
Ultimately, so do I. I prefer the environment (to be honest, that was a true climber's gym...this feels like they've "gone commercial" as the saying goes). Yeah, it was old. Yeah, it was kinda smelly. But it was "home". Oh well. Change is good...right?
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smellyhippie
Feb 18, 2004, 4:41 PM
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RP,
Could you have designed a better gym given that the facility it was in was the only place it could be put?
Nate
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climbin_moo
Feb 18, 2004, 5:45 PM
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Hey could one of you OSU guys post a few pictures of it? Thanks! :) I really want to see what it looks like.
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adventureman
Feb 18, 2004, 5:51 PM
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This is the only one I can find; this is before it was painted and the holds were put up; it does look better now. I'll try and take some pictures next week and post them as soon as I get them developed.
http://home.earthlink.net/...man73/images/icc.jpg
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rockprodigy
Feb 19, 2004, 3:36 AM
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They did a good job with the space they had, but nevertheless, making such long TR routes really limits the amount of people who can use it.
Think about it...if you're on a rope for 15 minutes as opposed to 2 minutes on a boulder problem, that 10ft of horizontal space is occupied the entire time you are on that route. So figure out the total perimeter of climbing wall, divide by 10ft per person, multiply by 4 goes per hour, and that is your hourly number of climbers you can accomodate. If they were boulder problems, you would multiply by 30 goes per hour...see how bouldering would allow more climbers?
What they should have done was make three floors of all bouldering...that would have been much better.
It's quite appropriate for Corvallis, though...about 10 years behind the times. The real tragedy is that as long as this place is open, and open to the public, there will be no financial incentive for someone else to build a real gym...they're actually doing a diservice by being there.
If I lived there (and thank god I don't), I'd lobby the state legislature to get Dixon closed to non-students, and I'd open a good gym. Corvallis would be the perfect place for a fancy (and expensive) gym. It has all the essential ingredients: lots of rich kids with nothing to do, horrible weather, and no good rock in town. But who would be stupid enough to try to compete with a state subsidized gym charging $5 a pop? ...even if it does suck.
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dynoguy
Feb 19, 2004, 4:52 AM
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In reply to: They did a good job with the space they had, but nevertheless, making such long TR routes really limits the amount of people who can use it. Think about it...if you're on a rope for 15 minutes as opposed to 2 minutes on a boulder problem, that 10ft of horizontal space is occupied the entire time you are on that route. So figure out the total perimeter of climbing wall, divide by 10ft per person, multiply by 4 goes per hour, and that is your hourly number of climbers you can accomodate. If they were boulder problems, you would multiply by 30 goes per hour...see how bouldering would allow more climbers? What they should have done was make three floors of all bouldering...that would have been much better. It's quite appropriate for Corvallis, though...about 10 years behind the times. The real tragedy is that as long as this place is open, and open to the public, there will be no financial incentive for someone else to build a real gym...they're actually doing a diservice by being there. If I lived there (and thank god I don't), I'd lobby the state legislature to get Dixon closed to non-students, and I'd open a good gym. Corvallis would be the perfect place for a fancy (and expensive) gym. It has all the essential ingredients: lots of rich kids with nothing to do, horrible weather, and no good rock in town. But who would be stupid enough to try to compete with a state subsidized gym charging $5 a pop? ... even if it does suck.
What the hell? That place definitely does not suck. The tall top roping really helps with the endurance for outside. And the boudlering cave is great too. Maybe I just talk it up so much because I can go for FREE
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adventureman
Feb 19, 2004, 4:37 PM
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In reply to: If I lived there (and thank god I don't), I'd lobby the state legislature to get Dixon closed to non-students, and I'd open a good gym. Corvallis would be the perfect place for a fancy (and expensive) gym. It has all the essential ingredients: lots of rich kids with nothing to do, horrible weather, and no good rock in town. But who would be stupid enough to try to compete with a state subsidized gym charging $5 a pop? ...even if it does suck.
Whoa, easy. Corvallis is a nice town; small but nice. I've lived here for over 12 years (and I'm thanking god you *don't* live here), and I love it. And I'm *not* a student. And if you don't like the weather, frankly, get out of Oregon...we like the rain. As for lobbying the legislature, they don't care, and Oregon higher ed can use all the money they can get, so my $70 per term or $5 a shot is welcome revenue I'm sure.
As for it "sucking," you've only climbed there once, right? Did you do their orientation? The ICC will evolve over time, nothing is perfect right out of the box. The majority of the cost was spent on the formed walls, which are gonna be expensive at any gym you go to. You stated earlier that you could build one for a 10th of the cost. The *old* ICC cost a 1/10th of what the new one did...and it was all plywood and textured paint. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but people didn't want that anymore or they'd have left the old ICC alone. The new center is also more friendly to students (which is the point, since it *is* on a college campus) and more inviting to beginners wanting to learn. People were uncomfortable going all the way down to Parker to the dark "cave" that was the old ICC and trying to learn with a bunch of hardcore climbers around.
I've thought often about opening my own gym in Corvallis; there's plenty of real estate for it. As for competition, there are plenty of people elsewhere in the Willamette Valley who would come to climb there. The next closest gym is in Eugene (1 hour away), one in Portland (2 hours way), and then one in Bend (3 hours away). A Corvallis climbing gym could offer more bouldering than the OSU center, a pro shop, things like that. People would come. Still think it'd be "stupid?"
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smellyhippie
Feb 19, 2004, 5:13 PM
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RP,
You're right about the climbers/hour serviced by the TR vs. Bouldering, but blaming the design is missing the mark. I'd bet the designers at EP, the biggest, oldest, and most successful climbing wall company in the world, know a fair bit more about climbing wall design than you do.
Typically it's the administration who decides whether or not to get a climbing wall, and they usually aren't climbers. And if they are climbers, their preference may or may not be bouldering. Climbing gyms at Universities are more than just climbing gyms...they're focus points for attracting students.
THis is one of the reasons they'll often go with a "faux-rock" look rather than a woodie...aesthetics are important, if (very) expensive.
The climbing gym definately does not suck...it's friggin' rad!
Nate
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rockprodigy
Feb 19, 2004, 11:14 PM
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OK, perhaps that is harsh. It doesn't SUCK. However, I travel a lot, I've been to over 30 gyms all over the country, and it is the second worst gym I have ever paid money to climb in. The only one that was worse was built in a grain silo in texas...and I gurantee that one was a lot cheaper to build. Like I said, it's perfect for Corvallis, I just feel sorry for my friends at OSU (including my sister) who had high hopes for the new gym, but now they have to "settle" for that.
You wanna know something funny? One of the instructors told me that since it cost so much to build, they need to get a lot of people in and out so they can make their money back...yeah that'll happen...that's only 100,000 non-student day passes they need to sell. Well, I guess I bought one, 99,999 to go!
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adventureman
Feb 19, 2004, 11:27 PM
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In reply to: OK, perhaps that is harsh. It doesn't SUCK. However, I travel a lot, I've been to over 30 gyms all over the country, and it is the second worst gym I have ever paid money to climb in. The only one that was worse was built in a grain silo in texas...and I gurantee that one was a lot cheaper to build. Like I said, it's perfect for Corvallis, I just feel sorry for my friends at OSU (including my sister) who had high hopes for the new gym, but now they have to "settle" for that.
I'm not disagreeing with you about preferring the old gym under Parker; I enjoyed the uncluttered environment there and the "feel" of the place. I, too, had high (perhaps too high) hopes for the new ICC. I guess I was expecting something like the old gym, just updated; I think a lot of people were. The one entrance, waiting 2 weeks for the skills orientation, and seeing the "at capacity" sign all the time were disheartening at first (okay, they still are a little) but it's all Corvallis has, so it's what we use. You're very fortunate if you have a good gym in your area and real rock close by. The penalty we pay for climbing/living in the great northwest, I guess, is less of both.
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dynoguy
Feb 19, 2004, 11:32 PM
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In reply to: OK, perhaps that is harsh. It doesn't SUCK. However, I travel a lot, I've been to over 30 gyms all over the country, and it is the second worst gym I have ever paid money to climb in. The only one that was worse was built in a grain silo in texas...and I gurantee that one was a lot cheaper to build. Like I said, it's perfect for Corvallis, I just feel sorry for my friends at OSU (including my sister) who had high hopes for the new gym, but now they have to "settle" for that. You wanna know something funny? One of the instructors told me that since it cost so much to build, they need to get a lot of people in and out so they can make their money back...yeah that'll happen...that's only 100,000 non-student day passes they need to sell. Well, I guess I bought one, 99,999 to go!
They like to get people in and out because the gym only holds 35 people. They want all the students to be able to climb. On busy days they ask the climbers who have been there over two hours to leave to make room for others. But it is pretty much done on the honor system, seeing as how they never kick anyone out(unless you spray too much :lol: )
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easyclimber
Feb 20, 2004, 4:28 AM
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I like the new gym a lot more then the old one. I personally think it is great but i guess i havn't been to many gyms. The low capcity does suck, but it is getting less crowded as the weeks go by.
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