|
crow
Feb 28, 2004, 10:10 PM
Post #1 of 14
(1442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 7, 2003
Posts: 37
|
So I shattered my tallus (bone in your foot) in Nov. and will be getting my cast off in a couple days. I really won't be able to climb till mid-May (maybe) and was wondering if anyone had any great info on a good method of starting back?
|
|
|
|
|
warloc
Feb 28, 2004, 10:24 PM
Post #2 of 14
(1442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2003
Posts: 75
|
mmm My case may be different, because the reason of my long-time pause was a bad-finger.
The word is patience. You will probably suffer on routes you could do easily before. But you have to go on slowly though, as your body also cannot train as hard.
Anyway don't worry, with a little patience the first month, you'll improve quite fast.
|
|
|
|
|
justin
Feb 28, 2004, 11:07 PM
Post #3 of 14
(1442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 20, 2003
Posts: 196
|
I broke mine too; right foot. It was a few years before I got into climbing but I'd say climbing actually helped. My foot reset with the arch a bit lower and as I pronate it has been a hindrance at times. How'd you break it? I've never met anyone else with the same injury. Tough bone to break, apparently.
|
|
|
|
|
josephine
Feb 29, 2004, 4:13 PM
Post #4 of 14
(1442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2002
Posts: 5794
|
josephine moved this thread from General to Injuries & Accidents.
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Feb 29, 2004, 4:53 PM
Post #5 of 14
(1442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
When I take time off, the thing that always gets me when I start back is forearm pump. Very frustrating.
Perhaps, in the weeks before you actually get on rock, spend some time on a hangboard or something similar to reduce the frustration that forearm pump brings
Also, maybe work on your flexibility in your hips through stretching and core strength by doing leg raises or situps/crunches, and lower back strengthening exercises. This flexibility and core strength will help you get your "technique" back faster, I think.
Good luck!
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
jkelley
Feb 29, 2004, 5:37 PM
Post #6 of 14
(1442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2001
Posts: 11
|
SLOWLY!
My experience with back surgery, and my friends experience with breaking a bone in his ankle tells me the worst thing a person can do is start back too hard too soon. I will spare you the whining and just say I would be better off if I would have taken it easy for a few months more early in recovery.
Jon
|
|
|
|
|
roughster
Feb 29, 2004, 5:44 PM
Post #7 of 14
(1442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
|
In reply to: So I shattered my tallus (bone in your foot) in Nov. and will be getting my cast off in a couple days. I really won't be able to climb till mid-May (maybe) and was wondering if anyone had any great info on a good method of starting back?
PM shoestring. I know he just finished a successfull rehab of a similar injury.
Aaron
|
|
|
|
|
pawilkes
Feb 29, 2004, 7:47 PM
Post #8 of 14
(1442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 10, 2003
Posts: 275
|
i just got word from my doc on friday that i could start weighting my foot again so i went the gym on saturday morning and climbed a little. honestly it wasn't nearly as bad as i had expected b/c you rarely even put 50% of your weight on your foot. the approach is worse than the climbing. good luck
|
|
|
|
|
nagatana
Feb 29, 2004, 7:54 PM
Post #9 of 14
(1442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2003
Posts: 425
|
Focus on regaining your endurance; even if it means climbing 5.5s.
|
|
|
|
|
crow
Feb 29, 2004, 10:05 PM
Post #10 of 14
(1442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 7, 2003
Posts: 37
|
I decked out on this climb where the first bolt (hadn't clipped in yet) was about 15 ft up and landed straight on my feet. I guess my left one took the brunt of the landing.
|
|
|
|
|
fredo
Mar 1, 2004, 1:55 PM
Post #11 of 14
(1442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 501
|
I spilt my talus in half in August. I did not require any surgery and was fortunate not to be in a cast, but a big boot/brace thingy. I was in rehab almost right away working on flexability and range of motion. The thing I found that was the most difficult was leg strength. Are you going to be doing a prescribed PT regiment or are you doing it yourself? Your PTist should know what to do, just mention that you are looking to regain climbing strength as your overall leg/hip/knee strength comes back. The big concern will be balance, not blowing your ACL when you walk/workout or tearing your achelies(sp?)
It took me about 4 monthes start to finish (day of break to full leg strength) and I have been climbing un-encumbered since Xmas. Patience dude, do not injure yourself further just to shave a week or two of recovery, remember how you heal now will effect how well the ankle works when your 60. PM me if you have any other questions.
|
|
|
|
|
fredo
Mar 1, 2004, 2:04 PM
Post #12 of 14
(1442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 501
|
Sorry, forgot to add this to my last post. In my experience arm and finger strength come back relatively quickly. While you are doing PT for the leg you can do a variety of forearm and wrist/figer excercises to aid you so your pump will be slower once you are actually climbing again. An older issue of R&I has a great workout for shoulder/arm/finger/core strength. I will check the issue # when I get home from work and post it if your interested. Also Cardio baby..ride the bike/row/elliptical, or better once you are walking pain free take a hike
rock on!!
fred :)
|
|
|
|
|
dirtineye
Mar 1, 2004, 3:25 PM
Post #13 of 14
(1442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
|
I brone ly leg twice in high sahool soccer, adn the worst thing besides muscle atrophy was the lack of flexability. Go easy and do a lot of gentle stretching along with whatever else you do to build back up.
|
|
|
|
|
fredo
Mar 2, 2004, 2:35 AM
Post #14 of 14
(1442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 501
|
In reply to: An older issue of R&I has a great workout for shoulder/arm/finger/core strength. I will check the issue # when I get home from work and post it if your interested. Also Cardio baby..ride the bike/row/elliptical, or better once you are walking pain free take a hike rock on!! fred :)
Rock and Ice #113 with Tommy Caldwell on the front cover
|
|
|
|
|
|
