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yaki
Mar 18, 2004, 2:27 AM
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I just signed up for my lead course
(it's a few months wait)
but I need to buy a rope
problem is..
I know nothing about ropes..
what do I need?
what diameter?
I know I don't need a dry rope
but beyond that.. I have no clue
little help?
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genevieve
Mar 18, 2004, 2:36 AM
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I would go for a 10.5 mm
I have a mammut flash 60m and I like it!
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drunkencabanaboy
Mar 18, 2004, 3:19 AM
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why do you say you don't need a dry rope?
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yaki
Mar 18, 2004, 3:30 AM
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cuz I'm nto ice climbing or anything like that
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genevieve
Mar 18, 2004, 3:52 AM
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In reply to: cuz I'm nto ice climbing or anything like that
And you're right ;-)
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yaki
Mar 18, 2004, 4:02 AM
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*smile* I did a little reading
but I'd still liek to ask some people who know what they're talking about
I imagine I'll be picking the ears of my buds at the gym..
(poor guys)
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nthusiastj
Mar 18, 2004, 4:06 AM
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I bought a 50m rope and hardly use it. Go 60m for sure. I would go dry too. It just makes your rope more versatile and last a little longer. Diameter... whatever you feel comfortable with. I am going as thin as possible next rope.
J
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drunkencabanaboy
Mar 18, 2004, 4:35 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: cuz I'm nto ice climbing or anything like that And you're right ;-)
Well I hope you never get stuck in the rain, and your rope never falls into a puddle, and you are cursing yourself for not spending the $30 more. I understand you are just starting, but if you treat your rope well it will last a while.
In addition to being a b*tch to handle when wet, your rope will not perform as well when wet (see: http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/services/safety/Nylon%20and%20Ropes%20Turin%202002.doc)
I guess it depends on what you mean by "need".
JMO
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cjstudent
Mar 18, 2004, 5:14 AM
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I just bought this rope:
http://www.gearexpress.biz/...=G&Product_Code=5111
I so far like it. For your first rope people will recommend the 10.5mm because you might be alittle harsh on it and the extra mm may help. But you also mentioned that you are beginning leading? In that cause you may not want to drag a 10.5mm rope behind you. That rope above is a 10.3mm 60m dry rope. U said you didn't ice climb and didn't need a dry rope, but I don't ice climb either. I sport and trad lead and have only had this rope for a short time and have had it exposed to water. To me 60m is a good length, I've seen a 70m rope be used but that is alittle long for "ordinary" usage. At only $114 (and gear express gives free shipping on orders over $20) its a good deal.
My partner also has a 10.2mm rope - and that was our first rope for leading. It served me well, and we were rough on it. We still use that line some too. Its a Sterling rope...so far I like Sterling and Edelweiss ropes
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cliffhanger9
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Mar 18, 2004, 5:15 AM
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Gear Guide oooo
http://www.rockclimbing.com/gear/index.php?c=23
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genevieve
Mar 19, 2004, 3:24 AM
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I actually have a dry rope...
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hikerken
Mar 19, 2004, 6:19 AM
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At the International Conference on Nyon and Ropes for Mountaineering, one of the studies mentioned stated the following (from the UIAA website, the people who certify and set the standards for ropes:)
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Claims abound about the benefits of dry coating of ropes (durably waterproof, improved handling, abrasion resistance and durability, etc.). First of all, there are no standard procedures. Manufacturers can do as much or as little as they feel like. Furthermore, there are no tests specifically for climbing ropes, which measure durability, abrasion resistance or waterproofing. No valid comparisons can, therefore, be made. However, there is no doubt treatments and finishing processes are known, which reduce water absorption. The aging behaviour of this treatment is supposedly good over the rope's lifetime, but it is also accepted that the dry proofing deteriorates with rope use. A study of dry proofed ropes from thirteen different manufacturers, using a variety of test methods, shows that only a very few ropes do indeed repel water well. The rest are bunched together with much higher absorption rates. One may say that many of the claims hold no water, but the ropes do.
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So save your money on dry ropes if you are not going to be in the snow.
My advice, buy the least expensive single dynamic rope available. You won't be starting your leading career with the ability to distinuish nuances, anyway. If you want to go the next step, get the one with the lowest impact force rating.
Have fun!
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drunkencabanaboy
Mar 19, 2004, 6:36 AM
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In reply to: At the International Conference on Nyon and Ropes for Mountaineering, one of the studies mentioned stated the following (from the UIAA website, the people who certify and set the standards for ropes:)...
way to quote the article i already posted a link to.
you conveniently forgot to quote what was said earlier in the article tho:
"Water absorption in polymers is much better understood now than over 30 years ago, when tests established that a wet rope loses much of its dynamic performance. Today it is known that water causes the nylon to plasticize, drastically changing its mechanical and physical properties."
as I said, get a good rope and treat it well after doing your research, and you will be happy. buy a shit rope and you will be wanting to buy yourself a new one before the old one has even used up half it's life. buying the cheapest rope you can find sounds like bad fiscal advice not to mention bad safety advice, and at minimum will result in minor irritation/inconvenience.
again, JMO
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jackscoldsweat
Mar 19, 2004, 7:15 AM
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Some people have more money than brains....
With that being said, go with a 60m 10.5 standard rope. As a beginning leader, a 10.5 will last longer. If you get it wet, let it dry before taking falls on it. If you get caught in the rain up high, rapping on a wet standard is fine. Dynamic falls on a wet rope is another issue. Go with any major brand name and you'll be fine. Using common sense, it's hard to F*^k up a rope purchase. By the time you wear your 1st rope out, you'll know exactly what you'll want (size,stiffness, stretch etc..) for your next purchase.
JCS
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drunkencabanaboy
Mar 19, 2004, 3:35 PM
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In reply to: Some people have more money than brains....
funny, I would have said the same thing about anyone who suggests buying the most expensive piece of equipment a sport climber owns twice as often as needed. But I agree with your suggestions about a 60 x 10.5.
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mustclimb69
Mar 19, 2004, 3:43 PM
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MEC in canada has a new rope for spring
Eldrid or Eldeweiss 10.3, 50M non-dry for $98 Canadian
They do deliver.
www.mec.ca it is not listed online yet but is in the brand new catalogue and in store
Depending where you climb 50M may be enough
I have a 2 60M ropes and have only needed it once.
If your gym leading 50M is PLENTY!!!!
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rngrchad
Mar 19, 2004, 3:51 PM
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My first rope: Blue Water 10.5 Accellerator 60 Meter, non-dry.
I've been doing a ton of tr'ing with my rope and only led a few times on it. I haven't noticed the extra weight while leading because I have not had the fortunate experience of using thinner and therefore lighter ropes. That being said, until I do use lighter ropes I haven't had a problem with the weight of the rope. I have exposed it to water(snow actually) and yes, it does absorb enough to make the rope feel heavy, however drying it out over night has never been a problem. I just string out a piece of static rope from one end of my room to the other, and drape the climbing rope over that leaving it suspended on the static line.
I realize my post will most likely come under scrutiny by many of the more knowledgable veterns on the sight so when they chime in to correct me, believe them. I'm no expert.
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usaclimbing
Mar 19, 2004, 4:15 PM
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dry treatment is not worth the money. you can go with a sterling (and some other companies, not sure which) that dry treat their cores (which is more or less perminant). go 60m unless you know the only place(s) you are going to ever use the rope before it dies only require a 50m (most of the time you dont need a 60m, but often enough on trad routes and at some sport crags you do need a 60m). and go with a 10.0-10.5 (9.9 is fine). bigger than 10.5 is a pain, and smaller is more difficutly to handle, and wear more quickly. Also, you wont notice the wieght difference. over the length of the rope you are talking about maybe a pound or two on average (10something, comparedto 9 something), more problems are going to be cause by rope drag through the protection that the actual weight of the rope.
personally, i like sterling. if you really want bi-color they have that for pretty much all their ropes. the 10.2 in the evolution seriers is a nice rope, as is the 10.0 or 10.5 marathon.
oh, and also, as far as bi-color, i would say you probably wont need that unless you are going to be doing alot of rappelling. its not that hard to find the center point of a rope without bi-color, or you can by special markers (blue water "makes" one) which you can write on the rope with and just make a permant middle mark. (*note: DO NOT, just use any old marker to write on a rope as many potenially have chemicals in them that can damage your rope)
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j_ung
Mar 19, 2004, 4:39 PM
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I could go either way on the dry treatment, but prefer standard. Buy a 50m rope and you'll regret it everytime you stand under under a sport route wondering whether it's taller or shorter than 80'.
Chalk up another vote for 10.5mm x 60m, standard.
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rhu
Mar 19, 2004, 5:27 PM
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Mammut 10.2 Supersafe. Very nice rope, handles well, safe, durable...
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madmax
Mar 19, 2004, 5:54 PM
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Don't buy a 50 meter rope; the extra 10 meters is very useful and doesn't weigh that much more. And there isn't any reason to not buy a dry rope. Yes, its costs a little more, but just because you don't ice climb doesn't mean your rope isn't gonna get wet.
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jt512
Mar 19, 2004, 6:00 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: cuz I'm nto ice climbing or anything like that And you're right ;-) Well I hope you never get stuck in the rain, and your rope never falls into a puddle, and you are cursing yourself for not spending the $30 more. I understand you are just starting, but if you treat your rope well it will last a while. In addition to being a b*tch to handle when wet, your rope will not perform as well when wet (see: http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/services/safety/Nylon%20and%20Ropes%20Turin%202002.doc) I guess it depends on what you mean by "need". JMO
Don't listen to this gumby. You're right. You don't ned a dry rope.
-Jay
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rocket
Mar 19, 2004, 6:01 PM
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Personally, I look for weight too. If you're on a long climbs and hauling up some extra weight then that is no fun. A good 9.6mm 60m rope is great. Dry is good, but for a first rope look for cost, and a good fall rating. Of course, the narrower the rope the less lower the fall factor.
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robmcc
Mar 19, 2004, 6:10 PM
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In reply to: cuz I'm nto ice climbing or anything like that
I bought my first new rope in years in 2003. Nondry, 10.2mm, 60m. Why spend the money on the dry coating when I never climb in the rain?
I can't tell you how many times since I bought that rope that I've climbed in the rain, or more rarely, on rock that was still wet from recent rain. Or in snow, sleet, or on icy rock.
:roll:
Rob
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dredsovrn
Mar 19, 2004, 6:17 PM
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I would get a dry rope anyway. I didn't think I needed a dry rope until I got caught in an unexpected thunderstorm. The rope turned into a giant wet noodle. Go for dry. It's worth it when you need it.
That being said, go for something with a low impact force. Check out some of the comparisons on www.mtntools.com or www.gearexpress.com. I think even REI has a good comparison. 10.5mm is probably a good start if you expect to take a few falls in your future.
Most of you good ropes have decent handling, but I have to say Sterling with Drycore is one of my favorites. A sharp edge rating never hurts.
If you really want to have some fun, get a nice set of half ropes and have them teach you to use them at your course.
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