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deco
Mar 18, 2004, 6:47 AM
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Hey,
I am taking a 4 days trip to try a project (that i consider hard for me: 5.13c/d) in 3 weeks.
Right now, i am climbing mondays, wednesday and thursday at the gym, then weekends i go outdoors.
I am thinking to climb a lot in this period, but i am also concern to get there with an overtraining, and not perform well.
What do you guys think is the best?
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kalcario
Mar 18, 2004, 6:52 AM
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What's the route, have you been on it before, what's your previous hardest route, how many other 13's have you done...
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boltdude
Mar 18, 2004, 6:59 AM
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If it's your project, then you've already been on it, right?
So you ought to know what you need to work - a one-move crux, or power-endurance, or whatever. Tell the forum about the route and your strengths, there are people who know all about training for hard stuff.
If you haven't been on it before, then it's not a project for you yet, you may on-sight it!
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deco
Mar 18, 2004, 7:01 AM
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Well, i havenīt try it, but i belay my partner a year ago....and i could check some moves.
My hardest send so far was a 13b, and iīve sent about 4 ...13īs....
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roughster
Mar 18, 2004, 7:10 AM
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With most sports, periodization has proven to be one of the most effective forms of training.
Since you have three weeks to go, I would climb hard for two more weeks, then take the week before the trip easy. Keep climbing on your current schedule, but do easier routes, and don't get "blasted". This recovery week with maintained easier activity should allow your body the time it needs to regenerate and process the muscle gain, then on your trip you should be ready to rumble! Make sure to get lots of sleep on the rest week before the trip!
Ideally you would have started training 13 weeks out. That gives you three cycles of 4 week periods.
Week 1 - Hard Climbing + Cardio + Stretching
Week 2 - Hard Climbing + Stretching
Week 3- Hard Climbing + Cardio + Stretching
Week 4 - Recovery/Easy + Light Cardio + Stretching
Week 5 - Hard Climbing + Cardio + Stretching
Week 6 - Hard Climbing + Stretching
Week 7 - Hard Climbing + Cardio + Stretching
Week 8 - Recovery/Easy + Light Cardio + Stretching
Week 9 - Hard Climbing + Cardio + Stretching
Week 10 - Hard Climbing + Stretching
Week 11 - Hard Climbing + Cardio + Stretching
Week 12 - Recovery/Easy + Light Cardio + Stretching
Week 13 - Road Trip
If you have a specific route in mind, a technique that is useful is creating the "rough sequence" of the crux and/or cruxier sections on a home wall or gym with approximately the same angle of steepness. The holds can and most likely should start off being larger and easier to use than the actual route holds. You want to build the engrams for the body position and the movement and this is accomplished by trying/doing the move over and over. If the holds are too small, it may be too taxing early on in the program. As you progress through the weeks, you could reduce the size of your "training crux" holds until maybe the last hard week where the holds are as small as you can conceivably use to get through the moves.
If there is one thing that all of my triathlon training is teaching me it is that periodization works and is awesome. I am doing endurance stuff now that I would have never thought possible a year ago. I am looking forward to finishing off my Ironman so I can start focus on climbing specific training full time!
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deco
Mar 18, 2004, 7:21 AM
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The route starts with a bouldering section, about 12 crimpy moves with tiny and slippering feet, then you have a pumpy but not so hard section on a steep wall, finally you have this last hard move.
The crux is the first part, but you have to be ok for the last part.
My strengths is my endurance, but iīve been working on power explosive moves lately, specially bouldering and using campus board. I am getting better, i can feel it.
But sometimes i feel heavy, and my climbing sucks.
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overlord
Mar 18, 2004, 7:59 AM
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seem like you already know what youre doing.
i would only reccomend taking two to three days off before the first climbing day of the trip. you cant really train well in such a short time but you can sure rest.
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deco
Mar 18, 2004, 8:21 AM
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Is just me or sometimes you want to climb but your body doesnīt?
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overlord
Mar 18, 2004, 9:49 AM
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In reply to: Is just me or sometimes you want to climb but your body doesnīt?
yes, especially after a hard party :wink:
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unabonger
Mar 23, 2004, 6:58 PM
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You're climbing 5 days a week?
Not for long, you won't be. Read up on microtrauma in PRC or other sources.
The TornBonger
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jsr
Apr 6, 2004, 11:02 PM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2004
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PRC is a site? If so could you link it please? thanks.
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