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verticallaw
Apr 5, 2002, 9:07 PM
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Here we go. I love overhang routes, and not just a bit. I find them exillerating but no matter how much I work on it pulling out from the roof onto the vertical above just don't seem to work. I make sure thatI keep my hips close with one closer / crouch up and prep to push out but I always seem to get the wrong angle (tragectory) and blow myself right off the roof. This is obviously a cause for soe whippers and cheers and jeers from below. so what am i doing wrong (I dont want to be known as rocket man forever and I would dearly love to finish or even get to the route above. Now just to clairify these are roofs that exeed my own body length so i am unable to push from the previous vertical wall
Thanks
Mike
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bill_w
Apr 5, 2002, 9:18 PM
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Your post is kind of vague and there are so many types of roofs, but in general for roofs, always try and keep your feet on and arms straight. When you are ready to heel-hook or plant a toe on the vertical face above the strength of your abs will be crucial.
So keep your feet on and work out your abs more at home.
[ This Message was edited by: bill_w on 2002-04-05 13:19 ]
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rrrADAM
Apr 5, 2002, 9:51 PM
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Getting your hands as high as you can is key...
Keep your feet deep under the roof and your torso close to the roof as you reach for higher holds. Keep moving your hands up while using your feet. When pulling the roof, look for where your feet are going after you pull the lip, as once you have your feet past, you're done. I do a lot of high stepping to these key feet, as this lessens the time I have to keep pulling.
rrrADAM
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miagi
Apr 6, 2002, 12:35 AM
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Another method that works, if short static movements wont be useful (in times where there arnt alot of handholds) is deadpointing it or lunging. If i have "solid holds" Ill place myself, and put at least one foot on the wall or roof and push off as hard as i can and use my hands as a pivit. The force of me pushing will force my body upwards and if i get high enough i can grab onto a hold or (which is really hard) palm down. Only try this if you have a really good hold because if you push off hard, you can fly right off the rock.
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dontneedfeet
Apr 6, 2002, 1:44 AM
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When pulling past horizontal roofs, I've got a habit of campusing. The foot placement thing takes too much time, energy, thinking. All bad.
And now you know how I got my username.
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miagi
Apr 6, 2002, 3:07 AM
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Campus moves can be pretty hard though on a roof if there is nothing to hold onto on or above the roof. If there isnt, thats one hell of a mantle Sometimes toe drag will help
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joemor
Apr 7, 2002, 11:06 AM
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try to heel hook over the lip, if you can, it really helps on some climbs.
joe
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crux_clipper
Apr 7, 2002, 11:22 AM
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Also, if you can't heel hook, try to get your feet clost to the lip, with hands on the verticle, and push and pull at the same time.
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phil_nev
Apr 12, 2002, 8:47 AM
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this is not exactly an answer to your question, and u may already know this, but, when placing pro, chalking up, or contemplating your next move, hang of straight arms, it will stop u getting pumped so quick.
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