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rockhound71
Mar 31, 2004, 4:56 PM
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Just curious for those who climb across the spectrum. Have you had more injuries from doing sport, bouldering, or trad? I seem to be in injury hell, one after another lately, bouldering and sport climbing. Are injuries less prevalent in trad? I only started climbing trad last fall, so I don't believe can make a judgment.
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rrrADAM
Mar 31, 2004, 5:17 PM
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I do it all but Aid, and have not been injured.
I do have a tender lateral pully (tendon) on one of my fingers, but this is due to just over use.
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keinangst
Mar 31, 2004, 5:17 PM
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My perspective is to treat bouldering (and to a lesser degree, sport) like an umbrella for your climbing.
Trad, aid, etc, should all fall under the umbrella of your skill set to keep you safe.
That said, I injure myself far more bouldering than anything else. :wink:
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gajeff420
Mar 31, 2004, 6:16 PM
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Bouldering
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empty
Mar 31, 2004, 6:19 PM
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I've injured myself more and worse in 4 weeks of mountain biking
than in 4 years of climbing.
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mandrake
Mar 31, 2004, 6:27 PM
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Interesting question. From a stress-on-your-body perspective, bouldering is basically coming from laying on your back to a full-on crux move at your maximum ability, virtually immediately. Add in the frequency of crimping (really tough on tendons), and sport and bouldering are going to be harder on your body.
For me, when I start getting tweaked in the finger tendons, I find that crack climbing is good active rest. I may still be working it hard (though, if you're new to trad get your placements solid on easy routes first), but it's not the same hard crimping as sport or bouldering.
So, as you're rehabbing your latest injury, maybe the thing to do is to get on some easier trad routes and take it as an opportunity to build those skills. Then, when you're healthy again, mix it up.
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camhead
Mar 31, 2004, 6:49 PM
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the only debilitating injuries that I have had have come not only from bouldering, but from GYM BOULDERING. All of the tendons on my left hand apart from the index finger have been injured in the gym.
stay outside, y'all. gyms are designed to specifically train certain parts of your fingers, and can often be "make or break."
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ntu_soca
Mar 31, 2004, 7:00 PM
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I have definently had more injuries bouldering than any other type of climbing. tho I don't clip bolts to much. And I've never been hurt gear climbing witch is what i do most. Just last night night i took a pretty nasty fall bouldering. I brused the hell out of my right heel, and also tweeked my back witch reinjured a pulled muscle. :( So be careful!
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padge
Mar 31, 2004, 7:15 PM
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Definitly bouldering:
-Multiple pulled tendons on both hands
-Broken ankle
-Multiple twisted ankles
-Bruised rib
-Bruised ass
-Multiple flappers
A friend recently fell bouldering in Josh and landed on his face, breaking out his already fake tooth and shoving it into his gum.
The only thing I've ever really hurt climbing trad or sport is my ego.
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karmaklimber
Mar 31, 2004, 7:40 PM
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Wow.. sounds like alot of injuries.
Just curious: When do you all rest?
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rngrchad
Mar 31, 2004, 7:46 PM
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I am on a "rest" right now and probably for another week. I agitated my right shoulder climbing and while mtb'ing I believe I partially dislocated it. Damn. Oh well, it's raining and I can spend my time studying to pass my BWLF course. I love being young. My body heels so well....wood where's the wood? :shock:
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ntu_soca
Mar 31, 2004, 7:48 PM
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REST??? well I guess I have to rest now, at least for a couple days.
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madmax
Mar 31, 2004, 8:10 PM
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A weekend of fingerlocks at the Creek sure can hurt your tendons, as well.
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jammer
Mar 31, 2004, 8:42 PM
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Bouldering, by far.
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lokionnitrox
Mar 31, 2004, 9:13 PM
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I have to agree that gym climbing of any kind is going to be killer on your body. Can't really explain it but it seems that rock just reaches out and grabs me and holds on as much as I pull down on it. Plastic just seems to require so much stress to pull.
but as for this rest you speak of, I am quite unfamiliar with the term. do you mean that two hour thing I try and do between leaving the bar and getting up to go to work?
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karmaklimber
Mar 31, 2004, 10:07 PM
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In reply to: but as for this rest you speak of, I am quite unfamiliar with the term. do you mean that two hour thing I try and do between leaving the bar and getting up to go to work?
:lol:
I mean taking a day or two off between climbing days or ending a session early so you don't get injured in the first place.
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rockhound71
Mar 31, 2004, 10:42 PM
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Thanks for the responses, all. And in response to the rest question: I climb 3-4 days a week with a rest day in between. Warm-up and stretch before I climb, eat well, and get plenty of sleep. I think all the hard living before I started climbing is starting to catch up with me; who knows? :?
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rockzen
Apr 6, 2004, 10:16 PM
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Bouldering = recipe for overuse... :(
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drrock
Apr 6, 2004, 10:46 PM
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I think overworking a single route or move is a nice recipe for an overuse injury.
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danl
Apr 6, 2004, 10:47 PM
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Bouldering by far:
twisted ankles broken ankles wrists legs busted fingers bad falls, not to mention the cumulitive effect of jumping ie spinal compression and knee trauma.
Trad: Injuries tend to me minor, small lacerations, or major broken bones or death
Sport climbing: often results in broken nails and torn cuticles
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