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jsr
Apr 6, 2004, 3:11 AM
Post #26 of 41
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I bought a months membership to HR on saturday. Got a partner no problem (he was visiting though) and maybe someone for this weekend. It's funny that you mention the annoying staff and belaying advice.. I was offered some and I could have contested cause i'm pretty sure of my ways (i was taught by a guy that's done lots of guiding and mixed climbs all over the world), but just shrugged it off and did it his way cause i didn't want anyone to say that i needed to take a refresher course or something.. On the plus side, even though the second half of the gym was closed to workshops, we never had to wait long for routes to become available and the lead wall was untouched by anyone.
I considered A-U but went with HR cause of the extensive bouldering facilities (and the fact that i hate taking buses). It's good to have something to do if you don't have a partner. Maybe next month I'll try A-U and then decide on where to get a yearly membership. I also thought it would be faster to get to HR after classes, but I'm startnig to think that might not be true; it's quite a walk even after you get off at the metro station. Seeing as I will only have 2hrs to get from mcgill to the gym and get some climbing done, this is an issue for me once summer classes begin in may.
All in all i had a good day, cept for the fact that I think i overdid it for a first day back. It's monday and I don't htink i'll be able to climb tomorrow either cause im' still recovering from what are hopefully just sore muscles and a slightly hurt knee (which i'm praying to god is nothing) =/
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aklimerguy
Apr 6, 2004, 3:19 PM
Post #27 of 41
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Registered: Feb 5, 2004
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Quand tu te prends pas pour une grosse star de l'escalade (comme n'importe quel con qui grimpe du 5.12) pis que tu est sympa avec les employés, ils le sont avec toi. Moi je suis un gars (hétéro...) pis je n'ai pas de problèmes et ils ne sont jamais venu m'écoeurer.
Pour les cotes, je dois avouer qu'elles ressemblent à celles de la montagne d'argent. Mais sérieusement...on s'en crisse! C'est pour s'entraîner qu'on va là, pas pour prouver quoi que ce soit!
Bonne journée à tous!!
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cliffhunger
Apr 6, 2004, 3:36 PM
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A long walk from the metro station??? 10 mins tops if I remember correctly...
Gym ratings... ha. It's not worth the effort to try and rate gym routes correctly, it just stirs more shit.
I know Allez-Up is home to some legendary sandbaggers, and I think it's good. You can't get hurt outside (because of a big plastic ego) if you were sandbagged inside.
As for Horizon Roc... last time I went, I did a few easier routes, and they didn't feel off the chart. There was this one particularly nice red 10c on the vertical concrete wall that was very well set.
The rest were unrated, and felt like they should remain unrated.
Climbing 5.12 inside (even outside) is far from exceptionnal nowadays... I wonder how some can build an ego on it. Don't worry, they should mellow out once they climb harder, or outside.
Did you say Orford?
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaah... its magnificent rock...
http://132.210.40.118/
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e_wire
Apr 6, 2004, 4:08 PM
Post #29 of 41
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Je suis bien d'accord avec toi que l'on va pas là pour prouver quoi que se soit. Cependant, combien de grimpeurs(es) ont commencer à l'intérieur et on aimé ca au point d'aller à l'extérieur? Beaucoup.
C'est là que les cotes intérieurs sont plus importantes. Pourquoi? Elles évitent au gens de s'enligner dans des voies hors de leur niveau et d'effectuer des chutes aux sols inutiles.
J'ai vu au moins trois groupes de personnes différente l'an dernier me demander ou était les tuyaux pour passer leur corde... (Val-Da et Kamou 2X). Ca demontre que les gens quittent les gyms directement pour grimper dehors.
Si tu pense grimper 5.10 pis que tu t'enligne dans une 5.10 à Val-Da, tu risque de te faire donner une leçon! A la limite, te blaisser. De là l'avantage de sandbagger un peu les cotes intérieurs.
En bout de ligne, ca renvoit au débat actuelle au QC. Les gens, en général, manque de formation et d'encadrement lorsqu'ils font la transition à l'extérieur. Mais bon, on embarquera pas là dedant!
Ciao
e_wire
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cliffhunger
Apr 6, 2004, 4:51 PM
Post #30 of 41
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It's pretty much the same situation in the states as well, I think.
It's just important to remind the people who don't know what they are doing that they are dangerous.
It's up to you to choose how you will make it clear that they should think a bit more before they climb.
I personally tell the people I teach to that they should not think that they can go outside with what I taught them.
I tell them that they should at least get informed, by reading books and using their head. They simply need to use their preservation instinct and common sense. I tell them that the way things are done was derived from good reasons, and that they should be informed of them before they try it.
Trying to scare adults into not climbing outside becasue it's sooooo dangerous isn't a good way to help them.
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aklimerguy
Apr 6, 2004, 7:07 PM
Post #31 of 41
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e_wire said :
"J'ai vu au moins trois groupes de personnes différente l'an dernier me demander ou était les tuyaux pour passer leur corde... (Val-Da et Kamou 2X). Ca demontre que les gens quittent les gyms directement pour grimper dehors. "
Ha!Ha!Ha!
Elle est bonne!! Mais ça me surprend pas... Kamou, ça fait dur les fin de semaines!
Vive les sites incognitos!
Bonne journée!
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wonder1978
Apr 6, 2004, 7:51 PM
Post #32 of 41
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Registered: Aug 1, 2002
Posts: 250
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I agree with you cliff on that.
Climbing outside shouldn't be made into something it's not. People need to learn properly and head outside ASAP, as it's where they'll discover what climbing is really all about, it's such a beautiful sport, once you leave the gym. And if climbing outside sounds dangerous to anybody, it's certainly because that person is doing something really wrong when they go. Sadly it's too often the case.
On second thought, forget what I said. Climbing outside is more than dangerous, it's deadly. If you start climbing outside, chances are you'll be dead before the summer ends. My anchors always fail on a regular basis, and I have only two lives remaining from my original nine. So please stay inside, learn to love your plastic, and leave all the crags to me. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
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genevieve
Apr 6, 2004, 8:07 PM
Post #33 of 41
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Registered: Feb 20, 2004
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Nice try wonderboy! ;-)
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aklimerguy
Apr 6, 2004, 8:25 PM
Post #34 of 41
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*Climbing outside is more than dangerous, it's deadly. If you start climbing outside, chances are you'll be dead before the summer ends. My anchors always fail on a regular basis, and I have only two lives remaining from my original nine.*
Me too!!! :lol: I lost 5 lives last summer alone!
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shakylegs
Apr 6, 2004, 8:53 PM
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Registered: Aug 20, 2001
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Two lives myself.
Oh, wait, that was in body weight. Never mind.
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e_wire
Apr 6, 2004, 8:55 PM
Post #36 of 41
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In reply to: On second thought, forget what I said. Climbing outside is more than dangerous, it's deadly. If you start climbing outside, chances are you'll be dead before the summer ends. My anchors always fail on a regular basis, and I have only two lives remaining from my original nine. So please stay inside, learn to love your plastic, and leave all the crags to me. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
Oh men... I second that... I'll add that I felt at least 4 times in the last year alone and that all my limbs been amputated. Outside climbing is like jumping in pool full of sharks, gators and other human deadly sea/water living animals! :shock:
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perozee
Apr 6, 2004, 9:37 PM
Post #37 of 41
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Registered: Apr 2, 2003
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Anyone have an opinion on the quality of the ratings at Action directe?
I climb at Action Directe 3 times a week and Andre Laurendeau on occasion and both seem to be reasonnably rated.
C'est le fun de voir les echange dans les deux langues... seulement au Quebec... et pourtant, les américains on leurs deuxième langue officiel aussi (Espagnol ;-))
Ciao
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wonder1978
Apr 7, 2004, 12:01 AM
Post #38 of 41
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Registered: Aug 1, 2002
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Perozee, we sorta have the same routine. You'll usually find me at A-D twice a week and at Vertical once a week. As for ratings, like I said, who cares really. The problem with A-D is that they're routes have no length, so they tend to compensate with short routes with one or two wonder moves. All the guys that put up routes there are boulderers, and it shows in the kind of moves they'll ask you to do. In the roof, all their good routes require powerful dynamic moves, and feet popping off all the time, and I really suck at that. I guess that's why I keep trying them.
Regarding ratings, I don't really know nor care whether they compare to other places or not. What you should really be asking is: are the routes "aesthetically" beautiful (meaning nice moves you'd find on natural classics and such things). Now that matters a lot more as far as I'm concerned. My immediate answer would probably be yeah, some of them are. But an honest answer would be: I don't know, I'm usually not really good at evaluating quality of routes in gym, I guess if I spent any time putting up my own, I'd be a better judge of that.
Bottom line, forget the gym, finish your rack and go outside!
I'll be climbing in Texas this Friday!!! Yéééé!!!
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jsr
Apr 7, 2004, 12:41 AM
Post #39 of 41
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Registered: Mar 27, 2004
Posts: 9
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cliffhunger you have to take the "long walk" in the context in which it is meant. It's not long by most standards but my classes finish at 9pm and the gym closes at 11. The metro ride to assomption is quite long and the extra 10-15 minutes of walking just takes away from the time i have to climb, so it's long enough. ;p
As for ratings indoors I have to agree with the others. only one thing can really be said about them; they're highly inconsistent, even within the same gym.
In reply to: Climbing 5.12 inside (even outside) is far from exceptionnal nowadays... I wonder how some can build an ego on it. Don't worry, they should mellow out once they climb harder, or outside.
You're right it's not. Now I don't know whether or not this is specifically aimed at me or (given the grade mentionned i'm assuming it is), but.. I don't understand why some people feel they need to knock someone the second they mention that can climb 5.1x. It's a point of reference of their climbing ability. Personally, if i'm looking for a partner i'd rather have someone that climbs close to my ability level. Just cause someone mentions the level they climb at (or used to in my case), doesn't mean they have a huge ego or that you have to immediately apply the gym rat stereotype. If I had said i wanted to work back up to climbing 5.9, would I have garnered the same response? I doubt it. Now if I had said "omg i can climb 5.12 hahah im the shiznit and anyone that can't sucks!" it would be a bit different, but then that's not what i said so I don't know how ego is involved.
As for orford, the huge spider webs on the overhanging parts are a major pain in the ass. The times I went, there were hundreds of them. I had to carry a stick when I climbed and even then I kept getting them in my face and it was really bugging me. maybe it was the time of year though.
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ofer
Apr 8, 2004, 2:13 AM
Post #40 of 41
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Registered: Apr 30, 2003
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In reply to: "omg i can climb 5.12 hahah im the shiznit and anyone that can't sucks!"
Thats the spirit man!!! I stand behind you.
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cliffhunger
Apr 9, 2004, 3:14 PM
Post #41 of 41
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Registered: Jul 30, 2001
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The comment wasn't aimed at you at all...
I was referring to a one of the posts, where someone mentionned that some gym climbers (at Horizon Roc I think) were full of themselves with climbing 5.12, or saying that people who climb 5.12 were full of themselves.
I didn't get the "I climb 5.12 I'm the shizznit" vibe from your posts, don't worry.
As for spiders, there are special bug weeks for several species at Orford.
Spiders used to make those gigantic webs until 2 years ago when the overhung part started to see more traffic.
Since lots of people warmup on BMW now, the corner at its start is always clean. Even Alpha Gamma's crack start doesn't harbor them anymore.
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