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davidji
Apr 19, 2004, 5:18 PM
Post #26 of 31
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Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
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In reply to: i've only been climbing almost a year... and (ppl say) I'm pretty solid on 5.10s... and I feel good on them most of the time. My balance is pretty good, strength getting better... but how to I get to climbing 5.11s? I climb about 3 or 4 nights a week, in a gym, open 4 hrs. a night. What can I do to get better other than just keep climbing? How do I improve my technique?
1. A lesson or two from a good instructor. This might be the fastest way.
2. Have someone who climbs much better than you tell you what you're doing wrong.
3. Closely watch a climber of similar dimensions, but much better technique climb a route either within your ability, or just out of reach, and then try to do it the way they did it. It might help if you knew them, and they could coach you a little while you were trying to emulate them.
If techniques come up that you're weak on (e.g., drop-knees, backsteps, heel-hooks, mantles, etc.), you can practice them by themselves.
Good luck.
David
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changlama
Apr 19, 2004, 5:39 PM
Post #27 of 31
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Registered: Apr 17, 2004
Posts: 22
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All I can suggest is what worked for me;
1. Bouldering, start pushing your bouldering limit and you find that the 11's aren't that far off anymore.
2. Climb Harder, a friend gave me the best advice when I was stuck at the same spot, "if you want to climb harder routes then start climbing harder", this sounds simple enough but has a deeper meaning; don't be afraid to fail. Many people can't push past a certain point because they don't like to be seen in the gym flailing away on a route.
3. Concentrate on having fun, not pushing the grades, they will come.
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dfoerstel
Apr 19, 2004, 6:04 PM
Post #28 of 31
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Registered: Dec 9, 2003
Posts: 112
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I can't wait until I get stuck at 10b/c.
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climbingaggie03
Apr 19, 2004, 7:02 PM
Post #29 of 31
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1173
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I was going through the same thing, i spent almost a year stuck in the 10's. Which isn't too bad, i still found alot of fun climbs to do inside and out. But i was climbing 4-6 days a week, what made the difference for me, was to trade quantity for quality. Now i only go to the gym about 3 times a week, but when i do, i make sure that i'm really trying to get better, either by doing hard boulder problems, or by only climbing routest that i don't think i can finish.
I don't know if this is the proper way (i haven't read how to climb 5.12) but it worked for me, cause i red pointed my first 5.11a at the gym yesterday.
Goodluck
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deco
Apr 19, 2004, 7:21 PM
Post #30 of 31
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Registered: Nov 30, 2002
Posts: 75
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at this moment, just try to have fun,,,,climb as much as possible, go to different places, types of rock, style of climbing,,,,,then you will have a solid foundation, the result will naturally comes.
it worked for me, i used to climb 3 times a week and go outdoors at the weekend...
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jt512
Apr 21, 2004, 5:59 PM
Post #31 of 31
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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In reply to: 2. Climb Harder, a friend gave me the best advice when I was stuck at the same spot, "if you want to climb harder routes then start climbing harder", this sounds simple enough but has a deeper meaning; don't be afraid to fail. Many people can't push past a certain point because they don't like to be seen in the gym flailing away on a route.
Agreed.
-Jay
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