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cerikpete
Apr 26, 2004, 5:48 PM
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Registered: Nov 22, 2002
Posts: 4043
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So it's not trad, but we're working on it.
Did some searching and found out there's a decent sport crag near me, and since I've been itching to lead (and am not quite comfortable in my gear placement ability yet), I wanted to try it.
So Melissa and I headed up to Birdsboro quarry on a beautiful Saturday. There's a beginners wall there that was (of course) taken, so we looked around for something in my ability range.
The first route you come to is a .7, which was the easiest available. I figured I'd give it a shot. It's a nice short, WELL bolted route (only 3 bolts, but only like 15 feet apart).
So I hop on and start fighting the nerves, but do ok up until after the first bolt. Then the "crux." The slope of the rock just called for a lie-back, but there was no face to put your feet on (they had to be under your hands), so I flailed and flailed and peeled on my first lead. Three times. Finally I smear and smear and use my ridiculous ape index to get to the key jug, and all was well from there.
I put some draws on the shunts and lowered down to give Melissa a crack at it on TR. She got to the spot where I fell and did the same thing. Since she doesn't have my reach she eventually gave up. Very sad and frustrated, she belayed me up so I could clean the route.
Once that was done, some people who went to the beginners area earlier came back. I asked them how it was there.
"Must be pretty packed, huh?"
"No actually one routes open and the people on the other route look about ready to bail."
Melissa and I looked at each other, eyes wide, and ran down to the beginners area. Sure enough one route was open, an easy .6 that is a great beginners lead. So I hopped on it and ran up smoothly. It felt GREAT not to flail.
I told Melissa this would be great for her first lead, so she took a couple practice runs on TR to get comfy, then got on the sharp end. She did it cleanly, it was great.
Eventually the people on the next route left and I hopped on it (a .7) and was able to do that cleanly. We decided to call that a good day.
So it went from disappointing to one of our best days yet in a matter of minutes.
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kimmyt
Apr 26, 2004, 6:01 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
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YAY! Congrats to you both. I'm very excited to check out BBoro...it's only like 20 minutes from my new place, so I'm thinking of conning someone to take me out there....
K.
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cerikpete
Apr 26, 2004, 6:08 PM
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Registered: Nov 22, 2002
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We'll give ya a shout, not sure when we're making it back out there again.
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mwbtle
Apr 26, 2004, 6:23 PM
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Registered: Nov 22, 2002
Posts: 5891
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ok, a bit more detail, because I feel like inflicting it...
Pump, on a 6??? My arms ached with the leftovers of the mentally pumpy start. I dug through my pack, looking for my old reliable slippers.
"That slip on the start really screwed with my head. And my feet hurt."
Any excuse to do something other than think about what I was about to do.
Erik murmured encouraging words as I removed everything from my pack in the search for my other shoes.
Aha, found them. I slowly undid the laces on the current pair, avoiding the inevitable for a few moments longer.
I know I have it. I pulled it twice with no falls. I can do this. A litany, running through my head.
It's only a freaking 6 and slabby, it'll be cake.
But somewhere deep in my gut a demon was doing a dance, cackling madly.
We walked back up to the wall, and I spent a good 5 minutes tying my knot and adjusting my helmet.
"You're on belay, whenever you're ready."
I turned around and looked at the hold that had spit my foot off once, the rock already greasy in the unseasonably warm weather.
I've got it this time, I have to have it this time.
One move, two moves, 3 moves, and I have the questionable jug for the first clip. Clip, flip, double check for a backclip...and then over the bulge and onto the slab section with the hand-swallowers.
phew. Must have been the shoes.
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katydid
Apr 26, 2004, 10:07 PM
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Registered: Aug 13, 2002
Posts: 3212
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Congrats again.
Now get to work on that gear ... we're doing Skyline next time I'm out at Seneca. ;)
k.
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charley
Apr 27, 2004, 12:23 AM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 6627
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congrats to both of ya. It's a lead
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slablizard
Apr 27, 2004, 12:36 AM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 5558
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COngrats!
But...you have 3120 posts and that was your first lead? :) was about time uh! :lol:
Have fun out there!
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