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jhump
Apr 27, 2004, 4:24 PM
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Registered: May 7, 2002
Posts: 602
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My alpine training regimen
BACKGROUND:
This training scheme comes from principals I learned from a Triathlon Training course, Mark Twight’s Extreme Alpinism, Cyde Soles Peak Training, and John Long’s Workout From Hell. The remainder is my personal touches learned over the last 6 years of training for climbing. I recommend it to noone. It is hard and demands lots of time and dedication. It has been helpful to me so I pass it along.
1. “Foundation Phase” 5 weeks (AKA Murder Phase)
Squats (Smith Machine) 4x25
Assisted Pullups 4x25
Leg Press 4x25
Tbar Row 4x25
Bench Press 4x25
Calf Raise 4x25
Decline Twisting Crunch 4x25
Perform all lifts slowly. Strict 90 second rest between sets. Lift 40-60% 1 rep max (body weight on abs, or lightweight plate). Perform all exercises in this order (most to least complex) in the same workout day. Start at 2x/week, increase to 3x/week after 2 weeks.
For cardio, train at moderate HR levels for 30 mins to 1 hour. Combine cardio before or after lifting for marathon gym sessions (3+ hours). I use the stepmill, treadmill, and eliptical machines for cardio. Wear 30-40 lbs pack with 10 lbs ankle weights. If you can do the lifting workout and an hour of cardio with the pack and ankle weights you are the man. You have legs of iron.
2. “Max Strength Phase” 4 weeks
Same as above, except…
Leave out either squats (if fear of heavy squatting), or leg press.
Do 1 arm assisted pullups, left + right arm equals one set
Do 4-8 reps per set
Do 4-6 sets per exercise
Do calves and abs same as above (4x25)
Lift 80-95% 1 rep max
3-4 minutes rest between sets
Cardio- pretty much do same as above, except don’t combine the lifting and cardio in the same day. Do cardio before lifting day, or do easy recovery workout the day after lifting. Toward the end of this phase prepare for interval sessions to come, by including pick ups (fartleks) to increase tolerance to higher heartrates.
3. “Power Phase” 4 weeks
Same as Max Strength Phase except…
8-12 reps per set
4 sets
70-85% 1 rep max
Expolosive lift, slow on the return
Cardio- Interval Time. Several types (assume 30-40 lbs pack + ankle weights unless noted). Warm up thoroughly, then hit it…
a. 30 min push on stepmill- I use level 7-8, go hard and feel like you are dying after 15 mins. Push heartrates into the 95 % of MHR. For example, my MHR is 183, and this workout gets me to 175 after about 20 mins, then I hold it and hurt.
b. Treadmill Sprints- no pack/weights, Crank up hill to max, then run sprints for 1-2 mins, rest for 1-2 mins.
c. Stepmill Sprints (can be done with or without pack), follow same guidelines as for treadmill sprints.
d. TreadWall + VersaClimber- Set Treadwall angle to max overhang, do 2 mins, switch immediately to versa climber, do all out 2 minute interval. Throw on a pack and max it out.
e. Recovery Workout- 30 mins to 1 hour easy cardio to aid recovery.
4. “Endurance Phase” 4 weeks
Same lifting exercises as above
2-3 sets
50 reps
25-40% 1 rep max
1-2 strength workouts per week
Include endurance bouldering or laps on TR 2-3x/week
10 minute intervals on treadwall
Cardio- Go long, I structure training similar to marathon training, with the long one on the weekend with several moderate intensity workouts during the week. Long power hikes are good for this, and don’t hurt the knees like running.
5. “Taper , Rest, Peak” 2 weeks
Ease off the training a few weeks before the big climb. If I have a long acclimatization period or travel time to get to the route, I may train right up until I leave, then use the first couple weeks of the trip as tapering, and my goal climb as peak time.
Summary:
Include climbing in the mountains and crags as much as you desire. Rock, ice, slogs, etc. Scrutinize your forays into the hills and identify weaknesses. Get back in the gym and stomp the weaknesses dead. When climbing, forget training. For example don’t carry a 50 lbs pack just because you will carry one in Alaska. Choose the appropriate gear for the climb you choose and do the climb in style. Suffer when you are back in the weight room.
I have done this cycle two times in a row, beginning October 2003. The results are showing for me. I have gained about 5 lbs of muscle, but this was due to increased protein and other calorie consumption. For the most part, I have cut fat, built muscle, increased speed, and cut recovery time. The price has been about 10 hours in the gym per week.
I hope this is of some help. Critique at will. I'm off to the gym.
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sean34
Apr 27, 2004, 4:59 PM
Post #2 of 3
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 116
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jhump,
thx for the post...I like how u vary the load and reps during the different phases. I'm on a similiar training program but I've been doing the 8-12 rep range...its about time for a change.
What does your diet look like?
What sort of lbs you throwing around on the squat?
later,
Sean
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jhump
Apr 27, 2004, 5:12 PM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: May 7, 2002
Posts: 602
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Hi there,
Diet- as much as I can consume at each setting, as many settings as possible. Lots of protein in meat and shakes. I am 5'11" and weigh about 165-170. I am trying to gain a bit going into an expedition so I don't waste away up there. I also consume lots of carbs to fuel the workouts. It is very necessary to consume a power gel or bar during the long workouts.
Squat- In the foundation phase, I got up to 4 sets of 25 @ 245 lbs. In the max strength phase, I got up to 4 sets of 8 @ 425 lbs. The whole time my lower back was the limiting factor. It just wasn't as strong as my legs were. By far the most valuable part of the scheme is the sets of 25. iI you can live through that, you will have a good year coming up.
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