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far_east_climber
May 28, 2004, 3:18 AM
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Anybody do visualisation? It increases performance by 50% aswell as pre-creating new pathways in your brain so your body knows how to do the movement before you've ever even tried. Can even visualise muscle work outs to get stronger. So anybody use visualisation as a technique. I guess you could call visualisation the same thing as 'headpointing'.
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saskclimber
May 28, 2004, 3:25 AM
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I visualized being admired by tons of gorgeous women, but that didn't increase my dating by 50%...
As to what you said about getting stronger by visualizing, the strength you gain is through adaptations in neural pathways. And even that minimal. Probably the biggest increase would be in your confidence. That would help with being able to focus better. Why do you think you see boulderers mimicking the moves of a certain problem while they are sitting infront of it?
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jt512
May 28, 2004, 3:27 AM
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In reply to: Anybody do visualisation? It increases performance by 50%...
Not to knock visualization, but perhaps you could explain in what way it would increase climbing performance by 50%. Does this mean I'll go from from climbing 5.12 to 5.18, or what?
-Jay
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overlord
May 28, 2004, 10:45 AM
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i try to visualize the mover required to do the route. it helps if the moves i visualized are actually the ones needet to work the sequence.
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andy_reagan
May 28, 2004, 1:06 PM
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Everybody visualizes to a certain extent. Whether its on route onsight visualizing, looking for the next move, or down at the base working through the crux or focusing your breathing and mind before the climb. But, yes, you are correct, a higher level of focus will encourage a higher level of climbing. I'm not sure where you got the statistic 50%, and am therefore inclined to disbelieve it.
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dc
May 28, 2004, 2:36 PM
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In reply to: It increases performance by 50% aswell as pre-creating new pathways in your brain so your body knows how to do the movement before you've ever even tried. Can even visualise muscle work outs to get stronger.
haha.. i see you saw the same documentary as i did last night (The Human Mind.. lol) :wink: :lol:
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witcomb
May 28, 2004, 3:05 PM
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Increase of 50%?
That is interesting, yet another statistic just being thrown around that someone will take for fact, 90% of all statistics are just made up anyway.
As for visualization, I do it, it helps. Only problem is I can never visualize how tall I actually am. Problems look simple until I realize I would require an extra foot in reach to make the move visualized :)
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jt512
May 28, 2004, 3:08 PM
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In reply to: 90% of all statistics are just made up anyway.
*LOL*
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simianboy
May 28, 2004, 3:24 PM
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I haven't gotten to the point where I can always visualize effectively. I have good days when my estimation of my reach is spot on and I can find the right moves on the first try even on new routes, and then there are days when I'm a tangled mess of arms and legs.
Still learning about my body, I guess.
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yezad
May 28, 2004, 4:06 PM
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although I think visualisation is a good tool (I've used it for slalom and GS racing and it does help you're focus and confidence a bit) I think creditting it with increasing your climbing ability by 50% is something that people like to tell themselves that way they don't feel as bad about being on the ground rather than actually being able to climb the damn wall (or boulder as the case may be). I've done it before, but I think it works best as a tool to use when your not actually climbing. Visualize a route that is challenging you when you're at home or at work, not when your'e at the gym or the crag. Those are times for climbing, so get up there and climb. :D
peace
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miuralover
May 28, 2004, 4:33 PM
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Visualization does work but it is something that has to be practiced. When visualizing it is important to not just working through the moves of a problem but trying to incorporate the feel, sounds, nerves of being on the route. That way when you get there it seems earily familiar and comfortable. I use visualzation during competitions, redpoints and onsights. Heck even when bouldering I can close my eyes for 10 seconds before getting on the problem and focus my energy to sending.
One thing to consider is to make sure you are visualizing through first person mode (ie what the route looks like from the angle of climbing it) not third person mode (like a video camera following you up the route).
There's also visualization techniques for overcoming nerves and relaxing in the days leading up to a competition.
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witcomb
May 28, 2004, 4:57 PM
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Hey, that first person point is a good one. I never really thought about that, but I do seem to do things in third person.
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badass
May 28, 2004, 5:14 PM
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Hell yes you need to visualize! And no it doesn't take practice it takes effort! if your not visualizing yourself climbing it's because you are not trying hard enough or you just don't care about climbing. I'm not trying to piss anyone off this time but once you've given everything for a route 100+ attempts you can by god visualize yourself doing every freakin move. you have to or you won't send. it would be like getting on a new route every time. Ask Chris Sharma if he visualized Realization. Ask Tommy Caldwell if he visualized Flex Luthor. If you ever try one route that hard you'll know what i'm saying!
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gumbobob
May 28, 2004, 9:11 PM
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you know, 34% of statistics are made up on the spot...
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