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andy_reagan
Jun 2, 2004, 7:18 PM
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Hello, I usually climb at an indoor gym once or twice during the week due to time constraints. I am training to improve my bouldering level so my focus is primarily on shorter more dynamic strength (as opposed to long endurance sessions).
Lately I have been dividing my time between working really crimpy problems for an hour, then dynamic type problems (i.e. roof campus problems, juggy dynos, etc) for ~45 minutes, then pinch/slopers for an hour, followed by a short (15 minutes) endurancey type cooldown.
During these time "chunks" if I see a problem I really want to try RIGHT NOW then I will go ahead and do it even if it contains a different type of hold from the subset I am currently working on (although I usually adhere fairly closely to this schedule). I figure systematically working each of the various hold configurations will yield better results than haphazardly working regular problems. I purposely work crimps at the beginning of my workout (after warming up on really easy stuff for a few minutes) because when I crimp down hard at the end of a workout it doesn't feel quite so safe for my tendons. Conversely, I focus on slopers toward the end of the workout as they feel a whole lot more "tendon friendly" especially when my tendons have already been worked over.
Would anyone care to comment on how they divide their time up during an indoor gym workout? I'm mainly interested in those who are focusing on strength/power instead of endurance, but everyone is welcome to comment.
Thanks!
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karmaklimber
Jun 2, 2004, 7:32 PM
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I used to divide my gym days like the aforementioned, but after about a month's worth of training, I got burnt out.
Now, I just play. My level of improvement has not declined any. Infact, its remained the same, except I'm more enthusiastic about it. With a strict training regiment, I found that I started to dread going to the gym and found it chore-like in nature.
With a "play"-like attitude, "training" is alot more enjoyable. Work whatever you want to work. If you feel like pulling down hard, make it a power day. If you want to work power-endurance, then work power-endurance. I just found it unenjoyable when I had to work endurance/power/etc... because it was a Monday/Tuesda/Thursday/whatever day it was during the week.
It sounds like you've got a pretty long, hard workout routine. If your body can handle it, right on! But just remember to pay special attention to your body, especially your joints. If you start to feel any oddity during/after your sessions, its probably your body telling you to lay off for a bit.
Also, careful about the slopers. There's a common misconception about slopers being "friendly". Not all slopers are like so. The ones with odd wrinkles and bumps can strain digits you might have thought it wouldn't; also, watch your wrists.
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gds
Jun 2, 2004, 7:43 PM
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I never work hard on crimps in the gym. It seems a recipe for getting injured.
I use the gym to build open hand grip strength. So, I like big holds on steep wall. I also like to use downclimbing as a training tool.
To me the gym is purely for training and some social interaction with climbers. If I didn't climb outdoors I would never climb in a gym.
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rokstahr39
Jun 2, 2004, 8:06 PM
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Usually I do laps... like 10-15 runs up a 5.7 or 5.8... then I work on either doing a problem I've had trouble with, or I will do every route on a wall... usually between 5 and 8 routes, mostly in the 5.10 range... it tires ya out, and I realize it isnt bouldering, but it seems any time I boulder, I end up hurting myself!
Becky
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cgailey
Jun 2, 2004, 9:24 PM
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Traverse...if you can. I have found this to be the best way to build endurance while maintaining a variety of movement and difficulty. Doing laps also is good...try to lengthen your time on the wall by whatever means necessary. The rarity of "longer" routes indoors is a major downfall for most indoor climbers who are venturing outside.
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coldclimb
Jun 2, 2004, 9:26 PM
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When I go to the gym I try to have fun at least. So I just climb routes, talk with friends, and work boulder problems. I try to get a good workout, but I do it by just climbing and just messing around on the weights and stuff like that.
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muncher
Jun 2, 2004, 9:39 PM
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I rarely get to the gym as I have a wall in my garage. I just try to focus on my current weakness (endurance) but still do some strength and power workouts as well. I spend a fair amount of time doing intervals, where I make up a 20 or 30 move problem with no rests, starting off hard and using progressively bigger holds as you get towards the end with no specific crux. After warming up, do a lap, rest for 3 or 4 mins then go again, repeat until you are completely fragged. For a more power oriented interval session I might use a 10 move problem instead.
Sometimes I do stuff like pyramids on the hangboard, campusing, lock offs, one arm lunges etc. Other times I just make up some hard (for me)problems.
As time can often be limited I find that by having specific goals and routines you can be so much more efficent with your training than just mucking about. Whatever works for you though, training in the garage is never going to be super inspiring, just focus on how it will help next time you are at the crag.
Good thinking about isolating your grip positions, highly reccomended. As for training crimps, why are so many people scared to crimp? if you don't train on them in a safe comtroled environment then you have got much more chance of hurting yourself when you inevitably come accross them on a route. No need to over do it but if you want to stregthen your fingers and get better at pulling on small holds then go for it on the crimps for sure, pulling on buckets on steep routes/problems is good as well but focusses more on your arms than fingers. Find your weakness and work on it. It may not be all that fun but this is training right?
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miuralover
Jun 2, 2004, 9:50 PM
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That sounds like a good routine.
Here are a couple of suggestions:
- As stated watch your wrists and elbows when doing the slopers and pinches, especially after doing some campusing and big dynos. Your larger muscles (biceps, triceps and forearms) will be tired from this and may not support your joints as well.
- Do a proper cool down that includes building up the back of your forearms (reverse wrist curls) and triceps (push-ups, chair dips) and stretch out your whole body. By including some exercises for weaker muscles you will reduce the chances of getting injured.
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perozee
Jun 2, 2004, 9:51 PM
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rokstahr39
In reply to: but it seems any time I boulder, I end up hurting myself!
I'm the same. Plenty of tendon injuries bouldering. Just one head injury in a lead fall... I think we are a little more careless when bouldering because the likeyhood of killing ourselves is low.
Peace
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muncher
Jun 2, 2004, 9:58 PM
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oh you reckon, bouldering can be heaps dangerous, especially indoors, one time I came off and nearly knocked the bong over, another time one of my cats was trying to spot me and well you can imagine the rest, he is fine now by the way.
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overlord
Jun 3, 2004, 6:49 AM
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man, one word for your: sloppers.
theyre IMHO better at building strength than crimpers and much more tendon friendly. dont get me wrong, climb on cripmers too, but put some sloper into the mix.
an i would suggest doing dynamic excerices when oyure still fresh. static excercise (i assume your crimpy problems are just that) will wear the muscles and tendons and than you can pop something when doing dynos (doesnt matter what, you can even pop a finger tendon if you shock load it while its not 100% strong when you miss a jug). better do dynos first, after the warmup and leave the crimpy problems for latter.
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masterjuggler41
Jun 3, 2004, 7:00 AM
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Something that has worked really well for me: When I am done climbing for the day, I attemp a hanging pull-up pyramid. Most gyms have a few pull-up bars (or a similar kind of hold). Get on the bar, Hang for five seconds, do a pull-up, hang for 5 sec, do 2 pull-ups, hang, 3 pull-ups, etc... go up to 5 pull-ups, then go down to 4, 3, 2, 1. The entire excercise consists of 25 pull-ups and 50 sec. of hanging. good luck moving your arms afterwards.
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tyify
Jun 3, 2004, 7:33 AM
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I do the 35 minute challenge...the goal is to be climbing HARD for about 35 minutes...I did this recently and did 1600 feet in about 35 minutes. Builds endurance and aerobic conditioning if you do it right. Just make sure to drink LOTS of water/gatorade before you attempt this because when doing this I sweat HARDER than I ever do....and I bike race, run race, ski race...so I'm not just a climbing bum. This works on endurance really well and you will feel it the next day. Try to do on tall wall and use a diffrent sequence everytime. This makes you work on holding onto holds at diffrent angles and all. A great exercise and has helped me climb harder many a time!
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pinktricam
Jun 3, 2004, 11:27 AM
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Downclimbing, lots of downclimbing.
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edge
Jun 3, 2004, 1:51 PM
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The junior team I coach is gearing up for Divisionals, and this is the routine most of them are following.
Arrive at gym, then gradually warm up with stretching followed by 15 minutes of easy traversing with nothing harder than 5.7-8. Rest 10 minutes.
Climb laps on twelve to fifteen 5.10 or harder routes with rests only while being lowered or tying into a new rope. These routes average 20-25 hand movements in 30 feet, and this phase generally lasts 25 minutes. Rest 10-15 minutes.
Four by fours in the bouldering cave covering routes just under their limit on all surfaces from 55 degree overhang to mildly overhanging. These are mixed between pure power problems of 4-5 moves to power endurance problems up to 12 moves long. Three sets total of 4 X 4's. Rest 15 minutes.
Speed climbing on a juggy vertical wall for 10 minutes. This helps with sequencing, fast twitch muscles, and explosive power. This phase is usually followed by social climbing and bouldering.
Cool down with easy traversing and stretching.
Stay hydrated throughout!!! In all, each gym session lasts about 2-3 hours.
This happens 2-3 times a week. Off days are spent stretching and 1-2 times a week are hangboard workouts following the Metolius 10 minute workouts, or campus rungs. One to two days a week are complete rest and recovery days, stretching allowed.
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dmon
Jun 15, 2004, 3:49 AM
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An interesting point that Eric Horst makes is the need to differentiate between performance and practise. Try having a couple of sessions where wending is not the main aim. Try new moves, get on stuff harder than you can do and have a bit of a flail, make up your own little problems that have weird moves. Sending is the secondary aim here - building your "move library" is your primary concern and will help you when sending is your aim.
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