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robreglinski
Jun 5, 2004, 11:06 PM
Post #1 of 16
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Registered: May 2, 2004
Posts: 129
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its a tool box really you take the correct rope for the job.
for example
i will lead climb on a pair of 9mm 50m (edelrid or metolius) ropes because in scotland :D there's not much requiring pitchs longer than 50m and they have a longer life time than the new 8.1mm or whatever the new thing out is :? . they are also dule dry treated because i climb in scotland and it tends to be wet in winter :( . i choose these brands due to price after the critriea above.(im a student) :shock:
from what i understand people in the US climb on single 10.5 - 11mm 70m ropes (i mite be wrong here i dont wish to upset anyone) however climbing with two half ropes reduces the rope drag and allows longer abseils :wink: .
using two ropes while sport climbing is overkill because the bolts are set (or should be :? ) in such a way that they will lie in a near line. this is the same at the gym.
i some times require a fixed abseil line for acess to the crag this is allways an (old) 10.5mm rope because it was what i had lieing :oops: around and abseiling tends to trash your rope(thus use an old one). however if i had to buy a line then i would go for a 11mm staic again because it has a longer life time.
If you pick the correct equtiment for the job then you will limited greatly in what you can use
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frantik
Jun 5, 2004, 1:07 AM
Post #2 of 16
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Registered: Sep 7, 2001
Posts: 128
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What rope size,model,and manufacturer do you like/use and why? Anyone else ever use rope with a twill woven sheath? I am doing some research on rope making,history, and use in the climbing world. I am also interested in just how much you all really know about the ropes we use.
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robreglinski
Jun 5, 2004, 11:06 PM
Post #3 of 16
(1682 views)
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Registered: May 2, 2004
Posts: 129
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its a tool box really you take the correct rope for the job.
for example
i will lead climb on a pair of 9mm 50m (edelrid or metolius) ropes because in scotland :D there's not much requiring pitchs longer than 50m and they have a longer life time than the new 8.1mm or whatever the new thing out is :? . they are also dule dry treated because i climb in scotland and it tends to be wet in winter :( . i choose these brands due to price after the critriea above.(im a student) :shock:
from what i understand people in the US climb on single 10.5 - 11mm 70m ropes (i mite be wrong here i dont wish to upset anyone) however climbing with two half ropes reduces the rope drag and allows longer abseils :wink: .
using two ropes while sport climbing is overkill because the bolts are set (or should be :? ) in such a way that they will lie in a near line. this is the same at the gym.
i some times require a fixed abseil line for acess to the crag this is allways an (old) 10.5mm rope because it was what i had lieing :oops: around and abseiling tends to trash your rope(thus use an old one). however if i had to buy a line then i would go for a 11mm staic again because it has a longer life time.
If you pick the correct equtiment for the job then you will limited greatly in what you can use
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nolan14
Jun 6, 2004, 12:08 AM
Post #4 of 16
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Registered: May 14, 2004
Posts: 191
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Personally I use 11mmx200ft not sure make but is dry 1 I love it.
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munckee
Jun 6, 2004, 12:17 AM
Post #5 of 16
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Registered: Aug 28, 2001
Posts: 455
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Depends where I am/what I'm doing. I have a pair of 8mm x 60M ropes that I use for leading because they add redundancy and offer full length rappels.
In the past I've also used a 10.5mm x 60M for sport and shorter trad climbs.
Just depends.
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esoteric1
Jun 6, 2004, 12:29 AM
Post #6 of 16
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Registered: Oct 8, 2002
Posts: 705
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10.2 60m
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l0wnsl0
Jun 6, 2004, 12:41 AM
Post #7 of 16
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Registered: Mar 2, 2004
Posts: 59
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i had a 10.5 60m dry from maxim and loved it. now i use a 9.8 60m from maxim as well, i love it.
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climb4life
Jun 6, 2004, 12:55 AM
Post #8 of 16
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Registered: Nov 24, 2002
Posts: 174
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depends on what kind of climbing you are going to be doing. i have like 5 or 6 ropes for different purposes. if i'm climbing with beginners or tend to climb a route that will require me or my partner to hang a lot or take a lot of falls, i use 10.5 mm rope. alipine climbing, i tend to use 8.5 dry 40 meter rope. for ice climbing, i tend to use twin rope both dry, for multipitch with an expereince climber, i use 9.8 60 meter.
it all depends on what i am going to do. oh yeah, i'm a gear head too. gotta have lots of ropes.
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climbnd
Jun 6, 2004, 1:13 AM
Post #9 of 16
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Registered: Mar 21, 2004
Posts: 10
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The best rope will depend on the type of climb.
If you are doing hard sport climbing, risking many hard falls, it is best to use a thicker rope (10.5mm) that will be able to endure more falls.
However, if weight is a concern, it is best to use a thinner rope, but keep in mind that it will endure less falls (in other words, last less)
On multipitch, where there can be a lot of zigzag, the best way to go is to use double rope to reduce rope drag (but make sure you are familiar on how to lead and that your belayer knows what he is doing, two rope belay is trickier). Another plus on double rope is that you may do longer rappels with it than with a single rope.
I would not suggest twin rope unless you are ice climbing...
Regarding the twill ropes, I have one and absolutely love it. The sheath is made differently, being much tougher and lasting more on rough rock. If you will be doing climbs that creat a lot contact between the rope and a rough rock, that is the best thing you can do, the twill rope will fray much less than a normal rope.
Also, buying a 50m (180ft) rope instead of a 60m (200m) is foolish unless you know your climbs will all be short and that the shorter one will do it (remember you may have to cut the ends of the rope periodically due to use). Better have some extra feet than get short, which may create really undesired situations.
Lastly, the dry aspect of the rope is also an extra feature that you should consider. It does make a huge difference in wet conditions (a non-dry rope can get very heavy with water, plus it looses considerable strength when wet), however, if you don't expect to be in this situatioin (ie: you will only be climbing single pitch climbs), you can save a couple bucks.
Hope I could help.
Igor Lima
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moeman
Jun 6, 2004, 3:11 AM
Post #10 of 16
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Registered: Nov 1, 2002
Posts: 1417
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Ditto. 10.2mm 60 meter, Bluewater, non-dry. Great rope--but i'll get a dry rope next time.
And size DOES matter.
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climbinginchico
Jun 6, 2004, 3:22 AM
Post #11 of 16
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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Mammut 10.5 60m dry. Love the rope, nice hand, resilient, etc etc
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dontfall
Jun 6, 2004, 3:40 AM
Post #12 of 16
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Registered: Mar 31, 2003
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dontfall moved this thread from General to Gear Heads.
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jc5462
Jun 6, 2004, 5:01 AM
Post #13 of 16
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Registered: May 25, 2004
Posts: 64
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My workhorse (Leading, Top-roping and guiding) 10.5mm 60M Edelweiss Stratos 8000+. For high altitude and alpine I have a pair of Beal 8mm 50M twins (use one for snow travel and lead ice and rock sections on twins and can belay up two seconds on each single strand if needed. loads get shared 2 each carry a rope and the third carries the rack. I also use prime shorts from Sterling for setting up top ropes especially on short climbs there is no need to trash a good full length rope and the shorts are cheaper. I have used just about every brand out there but my all time favorite was a special edition guide rope from Rivory Joanny, it was 10.5mm for the first and last 10M and 9.8mm for the rest of the rope it was one of the earliest 55M ropes was well marked at the mid mark and had a colorchange for the first and last 10M which made it nice for the belayer to know that you had 10M left instead of guessing. this was also dry coated and was the softest rope I have ever encountered. If you want a very dynamic rope try the Cairngorm ropes or better yet find some "Goldline"
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tahoe_rock_master
Jun 6, 2004, 5:28 AM
Post #14 of 16
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Registered: Feb 25, 2004
Posts: 172
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In reply to: Mammut 10.5 60m dry. Love the rope, nice hand, resilient, etc etc
I have the same rope. It is awesome, I love it. :D :D
Matt
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coldclimb
Jun 6, 2004, 7:01 AM
Post #15 of 16
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Registered: Jan 14, 2002
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I've got a 10.5x60m and a 10.2x60m that I use.
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rockn_j
Jun 6, 2004, 9:26 AM
Post #16 of 16
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Registered: Mar 13, 2004
Posts: 99
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I use a Mammut 9.5x60. Its really light and handles great
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