Let's keep this thread on track please..

I think we can all agree that badass has proved the old adage "It is better for people to think you a fool than to open your mouth and prove them right."

Curt, I understand and appreciate both grading scales. I disagree with your opinionated view that the V-grade is just for spraying. I believe that people use it as a personal bench mark, to push themselves further and pick future projects. (No grade is fallable - everyone climbs differently and has different strengths and weaknesses, blah blah blah)

The b grade, suits a fun day cruising through boulder fields and just getting on a heap of stuff and climbing for fun. The days you want to go out and push yourself or work a project the V grade is more appropriate.

If I go to a new area, especially on an unfamiliar type of rock, the B grade is going to be useless to me. If I go to an area where majority of things are easy for me, it is great.

See I dont undestand WHY IT makes no sense? Both the problems he linked together were bothe 30+ moves and each cranked in at v14! So should the problems at the Cave start being rated as routes, to me its a bunch of bull, Dai used no gear, to me this is the whole difference between Bouldering and Route Climbing....

And besides that this has been an open Project for many many years, and now that it has been climbed it must now take on a different rating system, get real and think about it...... A v14.... is somthing that most climber will never achieve, and only in the past 10 years has this grade even been solidified into the community. A v14 is so f---ing hard, the holds are so non existent that it defies logic! And the V scale will only continue to grow.... what did we all think it was gonna stop at v14, v15, V?...

NO as more and more mutants spawn into our world, the grades will only continue to grow, Kids will be warming up on Dreamtime, so they can go tackle their Projects!!!! I mean get real progression is all a part of the game and Dai has now opened a new door into the limits off people... CONgrats Dai... climb a couple more V16's and then a V17 jus to piss off the elderly peeps of rc.com!

Im suprised this thread keeps flaming

peace

...the technicality of the moves combined with the demands on ones power and endurance.

V-grades according to sherman in his hueco tanks guide.

Sherman applied the v-grade to lots of endurance problems at hueco.

By your logic, gunsmoke is not a boulder problem?

Actually, Gunsmoke is more often referred to as 5.11 than some "V" grade problem--as far as I know. Also, Sherman himself said he made a mistake by applying the "V" bouldering scale to long problems like "Burn Baby, Burn" at Hueco, a 135 foot long traverse. If you don't believe me, please feel free to ask John about this yourself.

Curt

The 5.11- grade for gunsmoke predated the V system.

At least a quarter(half?) of the boulder problems at hueco are more route like than boulder like. The long dong, 4 star roof, the morgue, havelina, bucket roof, nuclear arms, etc.

Sherman wanting to change it doesn't change the fact that the V system as it is being used today is basically the same as Sherman used when he first created it.

Bouldering tends to emphasize power, that is a fact. But you cannot conveniently eliminate endurance from the equation. Endurance matters on most boulder problems, and the grades reflect that.

My favorite types of boulder problems tend to be endurance oriented. Mushroom roof for a short example. The well traverse for a long one.


The defining difference between routes and boulder problems is the use of a rope.

As far as I am concerned free soloing is bouldering as well. Say you start climbing a large rock that nobody has touched before. You start bouldering up it. At what point does it stop being bouldering and change into free soloing? There is no defining change. Bouldering doesn't have a preset height limit.
You wouldn't claim that you couldn’t die on a boulder problem, right?