|
char
Apr 29, 2002, 1:11 AM
Post #1 of 10
(3507 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 29, 2002
Posts: 11
|
I'm new. I am wondering what kind of holds I should be learning. I now the basic "grab the nice big hold and pull," I learned how to make an "OK" sign with my hand, stick it in a crack and squeeze and I am working on my foot work. What are the holds I know called and what others should I know?
|
|
|
|
|
calamity_chk
Apr 29, 2002, 1:25 AM
Post #2 of 10
(3507 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 23, 2002
Posts: 7994
|
Char,
I'm pretty new myself, but the big, easy holds are called jugs. I'm not sure about the "okay" thing so I'll let someone else address that one ...
Also, what I did to help myself get started is to read climbing dictionaries and different books and sites on technique, and I talked to LOTS of people at the climbing gym. I eventually wore them down enough that they taught me a thing or two.
Hope that helps ...
[ This Message was edited by: clymbr_chk on 2002-04-28 18:27 ]
|
|
|
|
|
kaptk
Apr 29, 2002, 1:42 AM
Post #3 of 10
(3507 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2001
Posts: 423
|
I would also suggest getting a book. I could tell you the types of holds, but for you to get them I would need to be able to show you. I have a copy of "How to Rock Climb" by John Long and it would be a good book to get. You can get a used copy on www.half.com.
|
|
|
|
|
dustinap
Deleted
Apr 29, 2002, 2:03 AM
Post #4 of 10
(3507 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
Unless it's crack technique I'd recommend just climbing and finding out what works for you. Chances are you'll figure out these certain holds yourself, as you need to.
This is what I did for the most part.
|
|
|
|
|
crackaddict
Apr 29, 2002, 2:06 AM
Post #5 of 10
(3507 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2000
Posts: 1279
|
Here are some different names of holds and techniques.
Check out the climbing terms on this site for definitions.
Jugs
Crimp
Pockets-Mono, Two finger, Three finger
Flakes
Slopers
Gaston
Underclings
When crack climbing you do jams here are what they are called from smallest to largest.
Fingertips
Finger jams
Finger locks
Off fingers
Thin hands
Hand jams
Off hands
Fist jams
Hand stacking
These next are for off width climbing
Arm baring
Chicken wing
Worming
Chimneying
Stemming
Here are some techniques of climbing
Liebacking
Stemming
Drop knee
Flagging
Here are some foot moves
Smearing
Edging
Smedging
Heel hooking
Toe hooking
I probably forgot a bunch but this should get you started.
|
|
|
|
|
rickoldskool
Apr 29, 2002, 3:49 AM
Post #6 of 10
(3507 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2002
Posts: 214
|
char, the recomendations for purchase of a book are a good idea. May I recommend "How to Rock Climb" by John Long. It covers all aspects of climbing, so you get a little of everything. The section on technique has photos to assist you, with decent descriptions. Some of the techniques can be practiced in the gym, others you will have to find your way outdoors. Good luck
|
|
|
|
|
char
Apr 29, 2002, 7:29 AM
Post #7 of 10
(3507 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 29, 2002
Posts: 11
|
I don't have a gym really. Here at UW we have an outside wall consisting of concrete with rock imbedded in it. I'm not sure how this compares to real rock but at least I'm outside when I climb.
I will look into getting a book. It seems that climbers are really friendly and are willing to tell you the technique they used to get up a crack or through a tough spot.
Thanks guys and gals.
|
|
|
|
|
dougiec
Apr 29, 2002, 10:08 AM
Post #8 of 10
(3507 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 19, 2002
Posts: 31
|
A book'll be good. Also try and take a step back and watch what the good climbers are doing. Try and think about why their doing it and see if you can match it to the techniques in the book.
There's a lot to be learned from sitting back and watching.
Sometimes frustrating as hell though!
Dougie
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Apr 29, 2002, 10:32 AM
Post #9 of 10
(3507 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
Is this your OK sign hold? You stick your index finger, middle finger, and whatever else fits into the finger crack, thumb down, and then rotate your elbow down and in so that the thumb and index finger (at about the second or third joint) make an OK sign.
This is called a fingerlock. This is the way to climb thin fingers to fingers. It's also really hard on the joints, unless you tape up to reinforce your finger ligaments (search for taping at RC.COM).
When it gets to hands, it's usually better to keep the thumb up. You stick your hand in, almost like shaking hands ("How ya doin', ya dirty, smelly, overworked slot that every guy in the world has used for recreation. I'm Tom..."), then try to make a fist. But, you can't because the rock stops you. You press hard, and this is a hand jam. Try to do this above a constriction in the crack, like using your hand as a stopper chock. Otherwise, you'll burn out quick.
In wider hand cracks, cross your thumb over your palm. You can hang on this one above a constriction for a long time before "Falling" suddenly comes out of your mouth.
Fist jams are when you stick your hand in palm towards the rock, and make a fist. Your hand expands sideways at the first phalangeal joints (HUH!), and you stick like magic. You can also do this one palm up and out, like doing a one arm chin-up instead of a one arm pull-up.
Holds you grab onto are crimpers when they are thin (say, up to 2 inches), and jugs if they are bigger. Unless the hold is big and slopes. Then it's a sloper, and you have to try to maintain as much hand contact as possible to get enough friction to use it. Feel around for little bumps and ridges, and make your hand conform to them. If it's greasy and smooth, you can try rubbing it with lots of chalk to clean it off and make it even smoother for the next guy.
|
|
|
|
|
joemor
Apr 29, 2002, 10:43 AM
Post #10 of 10
(3507 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 3, 2001
Posts: 609
|
go the book, i think there is a site somewher with pictures, i think planet fear?
joe
|
|
|
|
|
|
