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johnson
Jun 30, 2004, 4:57 PM
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My buddy and I are heading up to the Bugaboos for a week this August. I have a good pair of mt boots and step in crampons, but the question lies with my buddy and i'm afraid my knowledge is limited in regards to this. He has a very sturdy pair of hiking boots with a sturdy shank (its the sturdy hiking boot that REI makes). What's your advice crampon wise. We aren't doing anything too crazy but will need to climb up the Bugaboo Col. Is there a pair of strap ons that any of you highly recommend that will accomodate his boot or do you think he'll bust any crampon he wears? Should he rent mt. boots instead? I'd like to hear your opinions. I have a buddy who had a negative experience with his BD strap ons over his mt. Boots when he did Rainier last weekend. Anyways...
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wormly81
Jun 30, 2004, 5:14 PM
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Over spring break this last year I did my first trip up Mount Washington. I did it in a pair of sturdy Asolo hiking boots with some BD strap-on crampons. Bad idea. Its not that you cant get the crampon to stay on well, its that you have to tighten it down so hard that the back piece digs straight into your heel. Boots made to accept a crampon will have a substantially thicker plastic heel to spread this pressure across the back of your foot instead of pinpoint on your heel. To be safe I would go rent a mountaineering boot made to accept crampons. I would have had a much better time up there had my feet been in better shape.
Hope that helps.
Jeff
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russ34
Jul 1, 2004, 9:38 AM
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while hiking, i wear rigid soled leather boots[scarpas] and use strap on charlet moser's. i dont seem to have any troubles, is there something i need to be aware of,eg.. damage to the crampons/safety/comfort etc?.....i dont do any ice or rope climbing, just axe and crampons, if i cant get around with what i got then i dont go there.............and while i'm here, i like the idea of strapons, as they feel completly secure. i have never even seen a pair of crampons that clip onto boots. are there situations where improper fitting or adjustment could see them flicking off just when u really need them?.........russ
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wormly81
Jul 1, 2004, 10:35 AM
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Im no expert on the subject but...
From my experience its not so much that you have to worry about the crampons coming off its more of a comfort situation. It is completely dependent on the boots that you are using because each boot is made differently. If they are expressly made to have clip on crampons thats good evidence that the boot with crampon is sturdy enough to take harsh terrain without feeling like each step your foot goes into another beartrap.
Jeff
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punk
Jul 1, 2004, 6:41 PM
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For bugaboos I will use the Stubai Aluminum Crampon with Grivel 65cm Air tech axe and LS Trango Extreme (the Trango S or G Tower will be better (lighter) but that’s what I have...)
The most important thing to know about crampons and boots is FIT make sure you fit them well before you leave on your trip take them to REI or someone with experience in fitting boots to crampons
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johnson
Jul 1, 2004, 9:58 PM
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I just want to know if you think the Bugaboo Col gets steep enough where he may perhaps break the crampon due to the boot not being rigid enough. its a pretty rigid boot but not as rigid as a mountain boot. that col gets traveled a lot so i doubt he'll have to be using his toes much.
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punk
Jul 2, 2004, 12:13 AM
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In reply to: I just want to know if you think the Bugaboo Col gets steep enough where he may perhaps break the crampon due to the boot not being rigid enough. its a pretty rigid boot but not as rigid as a mountain boot. that col gets traveled a lot so i doubt he'll have to be using his toes much.
It is 40 degrees max just follow the trail you will be good some even going without crampons...but I wont recommend it just dont use rigid crampon
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sinorock
Jul 2, 2004, 9:45 PM
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Grivel crampons are very good. They are argueably the best on the market.
www.climbhigh.com has them for sale.
I would suggest to get Grivel G12 for mountaineering.
I bought a pair of G12 and went to the Canadian Rockies last month. I climbed Mt. Athabasca twice, once with a group, the second time solo on AA col route.
I love my G12 crampons. In addition to my mountaineering G12, I also have a pair of Rambo Evo3 for steep ice. I set them in mono-point setting.
Love them both.
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timstich
Jul 6, 2004, 1:37 PM
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In reply to: I have a buddy who had a negative experience with his BD strap ons over his mt. Boots when he did Rainier last weekend.
What was his experience? Did he get fatigued doing frontpointing? I had that experience doing some +/-60 degree ice for a short pitch in some strap on CAMP iceriders in a Scarpa SL leather boot. But the ice was short, so it was no big deal. Just needed to rest the ankles more on that pitch.
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brutusofwyde
Jul 6, 2004, 8:57 PM
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When we went to the Bugs, we took Camp aluminum 6-point crampons. These are widely adjustable and extremely light weight. I have used mine on tennis shoes before. We also took the afore-mentioned Grivel aluminum axes.
You don't want to be lugging anymore weight up to the Kain Hut than necessary.
Yes, some folks do the couloir up to Bug-Snowpatch Col without crampons, but in cold conditions it can get icy.
Look here:
http://www.promountainsports.com/crampons.shtml?http://www.promountainsports.com/crampons-camp-6pt.shtml
Hope this helps!
Brutus
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oregonalpine
Aug 6, 2004, 4:55 AM
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strap on crampons would be the way to go for a not so burly boot... SMC makes a very good reliable steel crampons that would be good for this and future climbs, whereas your skills will grow past aluminum crampons (less durable) quickly if youre looking at steeper routes.
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