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extrasports
May 13, 2002, 1:54 AM
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I have La Sportiva...thinking of getting brand but I'm confused too many choices.
Help what do you wear?
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varstar10
May 13, 2002, 2:09 AM
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dude...i use 5.10 slippers...i climb alot of over hanging routes and they are really sensetive shoes. Great for pulling on little pockets...but they will kill your feet on long slab routes...
Jon
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extrasports
May 13, 2002, 2:28 AM
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Thanks I thought slippers would be the way to go but had no idea which brand.
Thanks again
H-man extrasports
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bigfish03
May 13, 2002, 3:38 AM
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hey extrasports,
i have boreal aces right now, but am seriosly considering changing to la sportiva. which ones do you have? how much smaller are they than your normal street shoes? do they strech alot?
ryan
[ This Message was edited by: bigfish03 on 2002-05-12 20:39 ]
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rickoldskool
May 13, 2002, 3:43 AM
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extrasports, I wear:
5.10 huecos-all around shoe; slab, crack edges OK,long routes. Most comfortable shoe I own.
Boreal Ballets- boot; edge great, crack OK, slab, long routes, chimneys or OW. Protects my ankle bone.
5.10 Moccasym- slipper; sport, friction, overhangs
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jdcox_9
May 13, 2002, 3:44 AM
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i own red chili torros and i got them because they are superior performance shoes
i think they are the most precise shoes i've tried on.
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miagi
May 13, 2002, 4:24 AM
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Well, I have a pair of Kermits from climbingshoes.com and a pair of Boreal Zens. Right now im sticking with my zens most often, but once i get both pairs resoled with C4, im going to use the zens on sport and boulder, and the kermits for some long multi-pitch or trad.
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mr_gondola
May 13, 2002, 4:27 AM
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I wear 5.10 moccasyms and anasazi velcroes. The mocs are great, have really good feeling of the rock under them, and yeah they're good for overhanging junk. The anasazis are pretty awesome too though! Just bought them, but they are definitely high quality shoes
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hang_man
May 13, 2002, 4:56 AM
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I own a pair of Bufo Weapons... why i own it? because 1)I bought the wrong shoes 2)it's cheap 3)I'm poor.....
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pushfurther
May 13, 2002, 6:16 AM
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climbingshoes.com firewalls. a friend gave them to me. they're great for edging, not so great for smearing. they're also at least a half size too small and they won't stretch.
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gerard
May 13, 2002, 11:51 AM
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anasazi laceup.
coz it happen to b on sale?
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traddaddy
May 13, 2002, 1:54 PM
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To be honest, after 10 years of climbing I still like my La Sportiva Enduros the best, and the 5.10 Spires work good as all around Trad shoes.
But for something like a super-ninja-slipper, I have a pair of La Sportiva Cobras, THEY ROCK. But the tend to make make feet hurt after the 1st three pitches. (Maybe because they're a size too small, duh! )
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calamity_chk
May 13, 2002, 2:15 PM
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I have La Sportivas (mythos) and love them. They've molded nicely to the shape of my foot, allowing me to edge a little better and such. Of course, the fellas who I climb with are big fans of 5.10's so I get harassed aplenty for having 'inferior shoes,' but I like 'em.
Unfortunately, though, I have no special reason as to why I bought them, other than the fact that I needed shoes for a trip, and they were the only pair that REI had in my size. (I have really tiny feet.)
You may have already done so, but I'd try climbing in as many shoes as possible before buying a certain pair. (I realize, of course, that this is also somewhat contingent upon having friends who climb and wear the same size shoe.) If all else fails, try them on at the store and boulder around on stuff for a couple of minutes.
Hope that helps!
amber
[ This Message was edited by: clymbr_chk on 2002-05-13 07:17 ]
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stevematthys
May 14, 2002, 12:22 AM
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boreal diablo, because they were not terribly expensive and they felt good when i tried them on.
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fo_d
May 14, 2002, 12:54 AM
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5.10 Spires my 1st shoes, I had them resoled and am saving them for long routes
LaSportiva Murias because I had a good size rebate check form REI and I thought if people say me with them they would think I was a real good climber, j/k.
5.10 X-rays because I wanted a high performance velcroe shoe with 5.10 rubber, and they were cheap.
the last 2 listed are both incredable shoes for edging on tiny little nubs or ledges, the LaSportivas have a little more support, both were very uncomfortable to brake in.
Les
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kunzie
May 14, 2002, 12:52 PM
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Scarpa Infernos.
True, not the ideal shoe for extremities, but I use them more for comfort and endurance.
They melded to my feet the moment I tried them in, love at first site. lol
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jules
May 14, 2002, 1:11 PM
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I have Scarpa Paranoias because I needed shoes and I found a pair for $50. They're a little bit tight (read: my toes go numb when I wear them), but I live.
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k2exp2010
May 14, 2002, 1:43 PM
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I generally stick to 5.10 shoes. I like the C4 rubber. I was thinking about the slippers but the lace-ups give me a snug fit (as if rock-shoes weren't tight enough already).
As for what shoes to use, it's really up to you. This is a realm where personal preference comes in to help you decide which ones to buy. Go to the store. Pick up a few that aesthetically pleases you and then try them on. If you can't move anything but your ankles, you're good to go.
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screamer
May 14, 2002, 1:46 PM
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i have a pair of la sportiva miura's for granite bouldering, cuz they edge like no other...and pair of cobras for sport...
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climber_trev
May 14, 2002, 10:43 PM
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i have a pair of Boreal aces, these were my first ever pair of climbing shoes, i got them about half the price they usually are and their comfortable (as climbing shoes go), durable and good in most climbing situation so i'll keep them as a general purpose / all round shoe. Im thinking of getting a new pair, maybe some edging shoes or something a bit more aggessive!
climber_trev
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mitchal
May 14, 2002, 11:16 PM
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Boreal Diablos,like steve,cheap at $55 at barabbes.com and they seem to be working great after a year indoor,outdoor,bouldering,killing flies......
When I need to get new shoes they will be boreal diablos again.If it aint broke,don't fix it.Right?
Climb Happy
Mitch
The $55 was including shipping
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couloir
May 14, 2002, 11:42 PM
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I have 5.10 Newtons for trad climbing, because their stiff, precise, and comfortable. And they are slip lasted, which means higher performance and better durability than board lasted. I just got a pair of 5.10 Zlippers for general bouldering and sport routes, since they edge good and still have more sensitivity than almost any other shoe. And I have 5.10 v-10's for real steep stuff that requires body tension. If your looking for a good slipper go with Zlippers.
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kaptk
May 15, 2002, 5:53 AM
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I wear a pair of Scarpa shoes that I bought in England while on a trip to the UK. I bought them because I got a good deal on them and they fit my feet. I have wide feet, so what works for a lot of other people won't work for me. My most important thing when buying shoes is that you are able to try them on and see how they feel while putting weight on them on something that will simulate climbing. That is why a lot of stores have a little mini wall for you to use while trying on different shoes.
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clam
May 15, 2002, 4:03 PM
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Boreal Equinox. I have always used LaSportivas. I wanted to try something with a little stiffer sole. I find that the Equinox's are not as comfortable as LaSportivas - they pinch a bit in the toe of the left shoe - but I am still breaking them in and think they will be just fine. I find them to be somewhere in between - in terms of rigidity or stiffness - a board lasted and slip lasted shoe. I did try on a pair of LaSportiva Mythos recently; they felt like a soft glove on my foot. I'll bet they're an excellent all day shoe for long routes. Oh well, I'm sure my feet and my Boreal Equinoxes will come to some understanding.
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hounder
May 18, 2002, 2:30 PM
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Boreal Matrix
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