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feanor007


Sep 14, 2004, 3:07 AM
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back clipping
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other tan repaeted low leval practice in a gym, are there any other stratgies to avoid a back clip. on my first practice clip in our school gym i unwittingly backclipped. then i decided to take a test fall. suprise. i only took a 5 foot fall to the mats, but it scared me to death. after an hour or so of repeated practice, i feel i've got the knack, but i'm gonna practice non stop till sunday, before attempting my first sport route. any tips would be appriciated.


daryl314


Sep 14, 2004, 3:18 AM
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an attentive belayer is key.


musicman


Sep 14, 2004, 3:28 AM
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the very best thing (other than experience) is a great, attentive, belayer, just like stated above, they will be able to yell at you when you mess up.


lv2climb7


Sep 14, 2004, 3:28 AM
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555


sabu


Sep 14, 2004, 7:25 AM
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best thing to do is not to get too focused on the moves. i did that once on a roof and missed a clip. i then lunged for the next hold. had i hav missed i would hav hit the deck. next if u do bakclip unclip it as fast as u can but make sure ur comfortable. every time u clip pay attention to how ur holding the rope this will indicate if ur gonna bakclip or not. and PRACTICE


Partner sevrdhed


Sep 14, 2004, 12:49 PM
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Not to derail or anything, but what exactly is back clipping? I'm getting back into sport climbing, and it's been years since I learned what back clipping was :oops:

Steve


Partner honeyhiker


Sep 14, 2004, 1:02 PM
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Just remember: rock to you. The rope comes up from the belayer, through the biner and out to you. I like it because its short and easy to remember and works like a charm.

Chris


architect


Sep 14, 2004, 1:23 PM
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I kept a QD attached to my rearview mirror and practiced clipping with a short peice of rope... uh only at stop lights and longgggggg drives.


Disclaimer:
Due to the unsafe nature of this post I do not endorse this practice or recomend it to anyone. (but it does break up the drive)


aklimerguy


Sep 14, 2004, 2:22 PM
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In reply to:
other tan repaeted low leval practice in a gym, are there any other stratgies to avoid a back clip. on my first practice clip in our school gym i unwittingly backclipped. then i decided to take a test fall. suprise. i only took a 5 foot fall to the mats, but it scared me to death. after an hour or so of repeated practice, i feel i've got the knack, but i'm gonna practice non stop till sunday, before attempting my first sport route. any tips would be appriciated.

The first quickdraw must be awfully low where you climb.... Or were you in a 5' high horizontal roof...?!


thun


Sep 14, 2004, 2:40 PM
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In reply to:
Not to derail or anything, but what exactly is back clipping? I'm getting back into sport climbing, and it's been years since I learned what back clipping was :oops:

Steve

search the forum archives, there's lots of good threads with good diagrams to explain.


tor2


Sep 14, 2004, 2:51 PM
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Now i have a doubt.... i was sure that backclip is when you the rope on the wrong side of the biner, making the draw twist.

But by this forum, looks like you are reffering to back clip as Z clip (that for me was: whem you clip the rope from under the last draw in the new binner making your last protections the draw way down, and not the last one you clip)... is that right?

Did i got it all wrong?


Partner sevrdhed


Sep 14, 2004, 3:16 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Not to derail or anything, but what exactly is back clipping? I'm getting back into sport climbing, and it's been years since I learned what back clipping was :oops:

Steve

search the forum archives, there's lots of good threads with good diagrams to explain.

Tried that. The search feature isn't working for me.

Steve

Edited to add that it looks like I'm not the only one that isn't positive on what back clipping is, althought I was also under the impression that it's where you clipped the draw from the wrong direction, so that the draw
twists.


crimpandgo


Sep 14, 2004, 3:20 PM
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tor2,
You are correct. A z-clip is when you pull the rope up from UNDER the last clip. A back clip is when the rope goes through the clip towards the rock. The danger of the back-clip is that when falling the rope has a greater chance of opening the gate and releasing the rope :(


thun


Sep 14, 2004, 6:30 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
Not to derail or anything, but what exactly is back clipping? I'm getting back into sport climbing, and it's been years since I learned what back clipping was :oops:

Steve

search the forum archives, there's lots of good threads with good diagrams to explain.

Tried that. The search feature isn't working for me.

Steve

Edited to add that it looks like I'm not the only one that isn't positive on what back clipping is, althought I was also under the impression that it's where you clipped the draw from the wrong direction, so that the draw
twists.

ok, i should have known... you're correct in what a back clip is, that being when you've got the rope feeding through incorrectly. the draw twisting isn't the only negative, however. during a fall, the rope could fall back over the gate, opening it and pulling the rope free in a single motion.

links:
http://www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com/howto/backclipping.asp
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/Unclip.htm


shakylegs


Sep 14, 2004, 6:38 PM
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One way I’ve got to avoid back-clipping is to palm the rope—palm facing up, thumb facing outward. (Not to put too fine a point to it, but imagine how your hand is when you masturbate. But, unclenched. Sorry for the image, but it works.) So, bring your hand to the quickdraw, with the palm still up, you clip the rope, quickly flicking the hand to clip depending on which way the gate is facing.


Partner sevrdhed


Sep 14, 2004, 6:51 PM
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Thanks Thun! Those are some killer sites. Now I've got something else to read while I'm pretending to work! :D

Steve


sabu


Sep 15, 2004, 6:53 AM
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a good way to practice is to hang a QD on sumthing above or near ur head. get a rope ( i dun hav 1 so i use the short rope off a wedge) and practice clipping remembering which side should/will be attached to ur harness and clip clip clip clip. pratice both sides for each hand.


jdouble


Sep 15, 2004, 2:45 PM
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If I get confused, I picture myself climbing past and above the clip. My head then seems to work out which way the rope should go into the clip. Hope it helps!


overlord


Sep 17, 2004, 1:27 PM
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attentive belayer that tells you when you screw up, and concentration.


Partner j_ung


Sep 17, 2004, 1:41 PM
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In reply to:
One way I’ve got to avoid back-clipping is to palm the rope—palm facing up, thumb facing outward. (Not to put too fine a point to it, but imagine how your hand is when you masturbate. But, unclenched. Sorry for the image, but it works.) So, bring your hand to the quickdraw, with the palm still up, you clip the rope, quickly flicking the hand to clip depending on which way the gate is facing.

:lol: :lol:

So, imagine that the rope is your 200'-long limp p3nis.

Reach down between your legs :lol: :lol: , and scoop your p3nis up with your up-turned palm. If you do it :lol: :lol: this way every time, your p3nis will automatically be in the correct position :lol: to avoid a backclip (assuming that your draw hangs untwisted).

:lol: :lol: cough cough

PS - Congratulations legs! Yours is the first post I've ever rated. :wink:


bustinmins


Sep 17, 2004, 1:54 PM
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Attentive belayer is definitely key

In addition, when climbing vertically and not traversing, I reverse my clip direction with each clip just in case I have back clipped. Just one more little thing I can do to make it that much safer. Of course, when traversing - biner spine is on the side of the traverse.

ROCK THROUGH TO YOU!

See ya,

JD


ron_burgandy


Dec 8, 2004, 12:41 AM
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Practice practice practice! Know the orientation of your draws (opposing or same side). it is a pretty serious deal, one of my buddies was traversing on a mulit pitch and fell- he was backclipped and the worst case senario happened the rope unclipped its self! he ended up breaking his back (in two places) and going into shock. he is damn lucky he can still walk and more importantly climb.


f2


Jan 14, 2005, 2:35 PM
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just climb why's everyone on this site a fucking retard who can't spell and is afraid of falling climbing is about letting go of shit not fucking thinking about everything. climb thats how you'll learn to clip.

John


jimdavis


Jan 15, 2005, 8:58 PM
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In reply to:
just climb why's everyone on this site a f---ing retard who can't spell and is afraid of falling climbing is about letting go of s--- not f---ing thinking about everything. climb thats how you'll learn to clip.

John

There you go, typical constructive responce. :roll:

It's pretty basic though, grab your rope with your thumb down and clip your draw without twisting your rope around (provided the draw isn't twisted)

It should be second nature if your sport climbing. I think I've back clipped 3 draws in my life. 1 was when I tried my first lead, and two more were on a first bolt at a weird stance.

Just practice pulling up your rope correctly and clipping one handed.

This should be something everyone has dialed before they jump on the sharp end, it's not that hard.

Cheers,
Jim


happyfra


Jan 16, 2005, 10:29 PM
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Back clipping is definitely not good, also because it tends to increase the friction on the rope and a couple of badly-clipped quickdraws can easily turn a long pitch into a hell. On the other hand, I also was pretty scared by the possibility that back clipping could bring to the opening of the biner and detachment of the rope; years ago, during a rescue exercise with some friends we tried to throw down a heavy tire on a back clipped qd. We did it tens of times in different conditions: straight, diagonal, overhanging, vertical... and we never had a single detachment, not even the feeling that it could happen, actually.
Said that, far better to avoid it!


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