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illume
Sep 7, 2004, 3:00 PM
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O.K... My hubby and I have graduated from the gym and started climbing at the feathers at Frenchman Coulee in Eastern Washington. My question is this:
These routes are bolted and there are anchors at the top. Do I have to hike to the top to set my runners and then go back to the bottom AND THEN hike back up to the top when we are all done to retrieve my gear?
I'm not clear on this.
I know it's a stupid question but any help would be appreciated. If anyone knows of a good site or could help us out, that would be great! :oops:
Susie
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dingus
Sep 7, 2004, 3:06 PM
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dmt
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brianmccully
Sep 7, 2004, 3:18 PM
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The answer is it depends. You can when ready take down the anchor by clipping yourself to the anchor untie from the rope pass the rope through the top anchors and rap off the rope and pull the rope once you are on the bottom.
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jt512
Sep 7, 2004, 4:01 PM
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In reply to: These routes are bolted and there are anchors at the top. Do I have to hike to the top to set my runners and then go back to the bottom AND THEN hike back up to the top when we are all done to retrieve my gear? I'm not clear on this.
The idea is to lead the route to set up the top rope, and to clean the anchors by tying directly into the anchors. You have to know how to do this before you go out to the crag, and the internet is not the place to learn it. Seek instruction from someone qualified and read some of the very well-written climbing instruction books, which explain this. Your question indicates that you are not yet ready to climb outdoors without the supervision of an experienced partner.
-Jay
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timstich
Sep 7, 2004, 4:05 PM
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See the accident report in Injuries. Apparantly an inexperienced sport climber made a mistake at the anchors.
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jt512
Sep 7, 2004, 4:18 PM
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In reply to: See the accident report in Injuries. Apparantly an inexperienced sport climber made a mistake at the anchors.
Thanks for the heads-up, Tim. That is exactly why I and other experienced climbers on this website have consistently refused to answer the recurring "What do I do at the sport anchors?" question. The internet isn't the place to learn basic climbing procedures.
Here's the link to the accident report: What happens when you make a mistake at the anchors
-Jay
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ulfi
Sep 10, 2004, 9:23 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: See the accident report in Injuries. Apparantly an inexperienced sport climber made a mistake at the anchors. Thanks for the heads-up, Tim. That is exactly why I and other experienced climbers on this website have consistently refused to answer the recurring "What do I do at the sport anchors?" question. The internet isn't the place to learn basic climbing procedures. Here's the link to the accident report: What happens when you make a mistake at the anchors -Jay
I completely agree with jt512 and timstich.
Do some lead climbing in the gym and if you are familiar with lead climbing, go out and do it on the rock as you did it in the gym.
Once up, clip your rope into the anchor and unclip all your draws exept the one directly under the anchor (sorry if I am very conservative in this matter, but double holds better) on your way down and the next one can top-rope. OR your second will clean the route, meaning the removal of all draws exept the last one under the anchor.
You can and should try this also in your gym.
I am not so sure if you really "graduated" from your gym already! Maybe some more training - even with a qualified trainer or climber - might not be that bad.
Ulf
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drfelatio
Sep 20, 2004, 3:56 PM
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While leading a route first in order to set up the top rope is a fun option, it requires that you or someone in your group be aware of such techniques. If you haven't reached that level yet you're better off with the basic top rope setup. The anchor is set on top of the rock, you walk (or rappel) back down and climb from there. There's a park near me that has dedicated top rope areas. Giant eye bolts are embedded in the rock and you attach your runners to them. Yes you have to go back up to get your gear but like someone mentioned you can just have your last climber climb over the top and collect it for you. Word of caution though: this puts that climber ABOVE the anchor and they will essentially be lead climbing. A fall off the top edge could be dangerous. Have fun. Be safe.
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jt512
Sep 20, 2004, 4:26 PM
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In reply to: While leading a route first in order to set up the top rope is a fun option.... [At dedicated top rope areas, t]The anchor is set on top of the rock, you walk (or rappel) back down and climb from there. There's a park near me that has dedicated top rope areas.
Drfelatio, leading a route to set up a TR is often not just a "fun" option; it is often the only "safe" option. The routes that the original poster described do not sound like they are at a dedicated top rope area. She said that the routes "are bolted." If they are typical sport routes, there may be no safe walk-up to set-up the TR. Additionally, the anchor bolts may be on the face of the cliff, rather than on a ledge above the face. If this is the case, then the only "safe" option is to lead the route.
-Jay
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killclimbz
Sep 20, 2004, 4:41 PM
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May or may not be safe to set up topropes on from the top of the cliff. I don't really know. Assuming that this is an area where you can set up topropes by walking to the top of the cliff, you should still go with someone who knows how to set up the anchors for you. It's not very hard, but you need someone to show you how to do it correctly and what the potential pitfalls are. Let them show you, then have them monitor you setting it up.
As far as hiking up and down to set up the climb and to tear it down. You need to do whatever is safest for you.
I would follow JT's advice on proceeding forward. It is a big jump from the gym to the rock.
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drfelatio
Sep 21, 2004, 12:24 AM
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I certainly don't disagree with you, but it could go either way. His/her description was a little vague so it might all depend on the situation. If no one in your group knows how to lead your options for setting the TR get kinda limited. I agree, though, I'd much rather have a more knowledgeable buddy lead the route, set the anchor, and then I can TR. But what if there aren't any anchors? What if its easier and just as safe to secure the TR from above? I dunno. I'm not knowledgeable enough to really say at that point but it seems to me your TR options are strictly limited the skill and know-how of the others in your group.
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keithlester
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Sep 25, 2004, 9:36 AM
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In reply to: The answer is it depends. You can when ready take down the anchor by clipping yourself to the anchor untie from the rope pass the rope through the top anchors and rap off the rope and pull the rope once you are on the bottom.
Brian forgot to mention the one impoertant thing here, Make a loop in your rope with a figure eight knot, and clip it to your harness BEFORE you untie. People have been known to drop the rope, leaving themselves neatly attached to a sport anchor with no means of descent. Dont let that happen to you :oops:
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macherry
Sep 28, 2004, 3:23 PM
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frenchman coulee is not a top rope area. Please check a guidebook for more information.
Have a competent climber or guide climb with you!
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ophir
Sep 28, 2004, 7:18 PM
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2nd the brainmcully post make sure you use a locker or two nonlockers with gates apposing to connect yourself to the anchor i have heard of quickdraws unclipping or the gate getting stuck open so that when you weight it it pops off and so does the climber
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ophir
Sep 28, 2004, 7:29 PM
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o and don't top rope thru the chains rings or whatever is perm. installed. this causes wear over time and the the end result is a very bad thing.
rapping however does not as the rope will not pass thru the anchor until it is unweighted. Unlike when a top roper falls or is lowered from a climb.
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seabee
Sep 28, 2004, 7:47 PM
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Just remember... there are no stupid questions, just stupid people...
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