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indoor or outdoor - complement or deter
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Oct 16, 2004, 2:20 PM
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indoor or outdoor - complement or deter
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bandidopeco


Oct 16, 2004, 3:04 PM
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I would say (and some may agree with me while some will not) that indoor climbing is more training for outdoor climbing then actual climbing. Aside from off-width and chimeny techniques you can probably simulate any kind of outdoor climbing indoors, yet it would seem near to impossible to have the variety indoors that you have outdoors. I live in Tahoe so during the summer I climb on granite, andesite, basalt columns and whatever Big Chief is made of. But in the winter it's plastic only or a 4 hour drive to Bishop. Maybe I'm rambling a bit, but I rarely feel the same accomplishment sending something indoors then I do when on real rock.


andy_reagan


Oct 17, 2004, 2:16 PM
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I've noticed great gains in strength from training indoors. It is very easy to train power (i.e. dynamic movements) due to the relatively safe environment of most indoor gyms. However, indoors will never substitute outdoor climbing (for me at least) in terms of gaining technique and overall conditioning a hard day of outdoor climbing gives you.

And whats that about cold weather? Its finally getting cool enough to have good friction. Its the summertimes that suck for climbing, imo.


overlord


Oct 18, 2004, 9:45 AM
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both complement eachother. i always find my technique improves after climbing outdoors, but its much easier to traing indoors.


lisenda


Oct 19, 2004, 10:30 PM
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Re: indoor or outdoor - complement or deter [In reply to]
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In reply to:
And whats that about cold weather? Its finally getting cool enough to have good friction. Its the summertimes that suck for climbing, imo.

He he... I live in Northern British Columbia and last night/today we have recieved 4" of snow in town and reporting up to 2' in the surrounding areas....no more friction...now we wait for good ice climbing.


trad_mike


Oct 19, 2004, 10:48 PM
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Indoor definitely complements outdoor. However, gyms are the worst place to learn how to climb. Learn the safety systems and the basics outdoors. Use the gym to get strong.


itakealot


Oct 19, 2004, 11:43 PM
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Indoor:
1) builds power
2) technique

Going outdoor from indoor
1) clipping techinique is more solid (4 foot gym bolts)
2) more power for dynamic moves
3) more stamina due to better technique
4) forgetting to tie runners on your harness

Going indoor from outdoor
1) More confidence in leading
2) More stamina due to climbing longer routes
3) totally confusing over the route, does not climb like outdoors

Outdoor:
1) Placing Pro
2) Buliding anchor systems
3) slab climbing


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