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fingerjam
May 24, 2002, 10:15 PM
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I've herd good things about Indian Creek, UT. Some nice crack climbin. Lots of good pics come out of there, although ive never been there. Get some books...
Laterz
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climbchick
May 24, 2002, 10:40 PM
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Red Rocks, NV and Mt Lemmon, AZ (if it's not on fire!).
Check out this book: Rock 'n' Road by Tim Toula. Amazon has it.
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bradhill
May 24, 2002, 10:45 PM
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In Colorado, Eldorado Canyon and the Flatirons by Boulder and Lumpy Ridge and Rocky Mountain National Park by Estes Park.
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roughster
May 24, 2002, 11:06 PM
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Sinks Canyon WY
Rifle, CO
Maple Canyon, UT
VRQ, ARZ Strip
Red Rocks, NV
Bishop, CA
Yosemite, CA
You will not be dissapointed with any of the above areas, and most feature sport and bouldering, with other all 3 including Trad.
Good Luck!
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dsafanda
May 24, 2002, 11:19 PM
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Yosemite and Tuolumne Meadows are of coarse big must hits. You could spend a life time there. Unfortunately, most of the areas on the east side of the Sierra's around Bishop, CA are going to be too hot when you're there. Happy Boulders, Owens River Gorge, etc. will be ovens in June. Someone above mentioned RedRocks. RedRocks in the middle of the summer sounds oppressive as well. If you are so inclined I would head north...Lover's Leap and the Lake Tahoe area are good summer spots in Northern California. I'm sure Colorado has a ton of good summer destinations but I'm not knowledgeable enough to recommend anything.
[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-05-24 16:20 ]
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climberchic
May 24, 2002, 11:20 PM
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Check out this thread for all the best climbing in AZ categorized by type of rock. This list was comprised by the hella-hardcore crackaddict who is your guy to talk to about anything in AZ. He will also be in Indian Creek for Memorial Day, so you can PM him for beta when he gets back. He's a super helpful, all around swell guy so I'm sure he wouldn't mind any questions you might have for him.
~Erica
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thelawgoddess
May 25, 2002, 12:30 AM
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i've heard city of rocks, idaho is a must-climb area.
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uncle_big_green
May 25, 2002, 12:42 AM
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I suppose it all depends on which way you go. That being said, I'll give you a list of some places I have visited. I'll comment more on the areas with which I am most familiar.
If you head this way on 80, you can stop in: Wyoming and hit Vedauwoo - easy access, good routes, all levels, mostly cracks.
In Colorado, as the Boulderite mentioned, you can go to Lumpy, which has unique flaring cracks that still provide good gear. I would skip the Flatirons if I were you. Eldo is good to visit, especially on the weekdays. Aside from some occasional loose stuff, you will find the sandstone there very solid and superior to the stuff at the Red. Climbing in Eldo is most similar climbing in Tallulah Gorge, Ga. if you need a familiar reference. I would also not bother with Boulder Canyon unless you can climb 11 crack and then I would just go to the Castle (not to be confused with the awesome place in the S. Platte) and do Country Club Crack and only if you don't have a full day. Since people from Boulder won't venture more than 1 hr. from home to climb (unless they go to the Creek), I'll let you in on why I moved to Kolorado - the S. Platte. Contrary to popular opinion, it is not all slab routes (though there are plenty), but moreso lots of good cracks. Unfortunately, some of the best areas here are closed for raptor nesting. Turkey Rocks, which is a very good area with all kinds of stuff, is open. There is another awesome low-key area that is open, but you'll have to be serious to go there as the approach is burly and so are the routes (email me if you really want to know).
Indian Creek will certainly be too hot in June for climbing unless you just want to climb at the earliest 2 hours of the morning.
If you are in Arizona, definately hit Paradise Forks near Flagstaff for a day or two. It is basically a crag with a good concentration of cracks. The rock is some nice basalt - no need for tape.
If you get into some canyons out of the sun, Red Rocks is pretty killer. Triassic Sands is n't bad. You'll probably want to stay off the ever popular Crimson Chrysallis during June to avoid getting cooked.
Finally, if you somehow pass through the Tahoe area, visit the Phantom Spires. Screw going to Lovers Leap to do the Line - I've done it and it doesn't excite me. I heard Traveller's Buttress is good, however (or whatever the name of that 7 classic is there). Back to Phantom Spires - Charbroiled and Candyland. Both are solid 10 or 10+, but they are way cool. Just trust me on this.
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dsafanda
May 25, 2002, 1:09 AM
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fyi. Traveler Buttress at Lovers Leap is a 5.9. It's one of the Fifty Classic Climbs(according to Roper and Steck) and in my opinion is much better than anything you will climb at Phantom Spires. This is true of a bunch of Leap 5.10'a as well.
However, I don't want to turn this thread in to a conversation about Lovers Leap v.s Phantom Spires. Both should be way down on your hit list.
Colorado people - What about the Diamond?Shouldn't that be on the list?
[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-05-24 18:12 ]
[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-05-24 18:13 ]
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clymber
May 25, 2002, 3:11 AM
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BISHOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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uncle_big_green
May 25, 2002, 5:44 AM
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I won't turn this into a PS vs. LL, either. I just thought that the Line was way over-hyped and really liked those 2 pitches we did at PS better. Again, I did hear awesome things about TB at LL and I want to do it. Speaking of the classics, the Kor-Ingalls route is one of the 50 too, but it ain't all that.
June can be too early to do the Diamond. This season was looking good due to lack of snow, but in the last month/week there's been quite a bit of it. Additionally, the people from KY might not be used to climbing at altitude and having to deal with the weather up there. I was on it late last June and one of the ledges (above Broadway) was basically a big block of snow/ice AND we got stormed off the thing a couple of pitches later. It really wasn't pleasant and that's why I probably wouldn't recommend it for someone passing through the area. Its much easier to retreat from Lumpy.
[ This Message was edited by: uncle_big_green on 2002-05-24 22:48 ]
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extrasports
May 25, 2002, 3:05 PM
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Here's a few places that will change life as you know it.
Yosemite National Park
Bishop
Joshua Tree
Tahquitz Rock
Suicide Rock
Poway Crags
Devil's Punchbowl
Cave Wall of South Lake Tahoe
Don't forget to check out the "routes" section of this site it will have plenty of info for you. Happy climbing
H.
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