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jumpingrock
Oct 20, 2004, 12:01 AM
Post #26 of 35
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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I use a reverso (never used an XP) and I have never had any problem feeding rope. I actually find it much smoother than the atc. I love the reverso's autolocking feature for belaying up seconds. It is a bit of a pain in the ass to give slack but it's not that big of an issue if the person is not wieghting the rope. Generally, for multi-pitches, lowering is not an option for the second. Therefore the person, has to jug up the rope and it doesn't matter if it's on autolocking mode (actually makes it easier to hold them anyway)
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hugepedro
Oct 20, 2004, 12:06 AM
Post #27 of 35
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Registered: May 28, 2002
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I now use the Reverso (and Reversino with my skinny ropes) exclusively. All of the "problems" I've seen mentioned so far are not problems at all if you know how to use the device properly.
Nothing wrong with the ATC or XP, but I like to carry as little gear as possible, so I carry what is most versatile.
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jcr
Oct 20, 2004, 12:25 AM
Post #28 of 35
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ok ok ok, there seems to be a lot of controversy on this issue, new question......
I have a gri-gri.... the question now is:
Is giving slack the same for the reverso as for the gri-gri?? Which do you think is more difficult???
JC
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hugepedro
Oct 20, 2004, 12:31 AM
Post #29 of 35
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In reply to: ok ok ok, there seems to be a lot of controversy on this issue, but im making my mind now...... I have a gri-gri.... the question now is: Is giving slack the same for the reverso as for the gri-gri?? Which do you think is more difficult??? JC
If you're talking about belaying a leader, giving slack is no different than giving slack with an ATC, and a little easier than giving slack with a gri-gri.
If you're talking about giving slack to a second who you are belaying in the autoblock mode, it depends, if their weight is on the rope and they can't get it off then you spend 15 seconds rigging a way to release the lock off (I pre-rig it so it only takes me 2 seconds to engage it). If their weight is not on the rope it is no problem to give slack.
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hurdles
Oct 20, 2004, 1:08 AM
Post #30 of 35
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Registered: Sep 3, 2004
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I like the original ATC for single pitch sport climbing, just because it's simple. I haven't tried an XP, but it seems like XP=more money, and thats it...don't know though.
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ottoman
Oct 20, 2004, 2:11 AM
Post #31 of 35
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Registered: May 26, 2003
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Yeap had them ...not!!....recently got the XP, prior the atc/tuber.....got the xp for the skinny thread.....its a charm!!......trad' for life.... :)
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cfnubbler
Oct 20, 2004, 12:25 PM
Post #32 of 35
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Registered: Oct 31, 2003
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In reply to: The back of the device (non braking side) also wears to a sharp edge quite quickly when used in "ATC Mode".
Quite true, and perhaps the best argument against the Reverso anyone has made here. I think Petzl addressed this issue in later production runs, though. My first Reverso definitely wore out too quickly for my liking, but subsequent ones seem to have a wider rope-bearing surface that eliminates this problem. Can anyone confirm that this has indeed been changed? It seems like it to me, but that's purely a subjective assessment.
-Nubbler
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glowering
Oct 20, 2004, 1:37 PM
Post #33 of 35
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Registered: Oct 13, 2002
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In reply to: The back of the device (non braking side) also wears to a sharp edge quite quickly when used in "ATC Mode".
Not true in my experience.
I've used my Reverso for over a year and have seen absolutely NO sharpening of that edge. The anodizing looks brand new. I dont' see how that edge could get sharp from belaying. Maybe I have the new design.
It could get sharp from rapping IF you clip it directly to your belay loop.
I always clip it to a runner so it's 12" from the belay loop. Then the rope runs straight out of the device so it won't get sharp, it increases the friction, it keeps it away from your shirt and other things that could get caught in it, it put's your center of gravity lower under the belay device so you are more stable, and it gets it farther away from your autoblock on your leg loop (you're backing up your raps right?) so it can't get caught and you have plenty of room to manipulate your friction knot.
It feeds great with every rope I've used in it. For trad these light autolocking devices are great. For sport the gri-gri makes catching falls and holding rests easier.
One other little thing I like about the Reverso is that after a rap when the device is hot you can hold it by the clip in point for the autolocking mode where it's not hot.
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jcr
Oct 20, 2004, 3:05 PM
Post #34 of 35
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Registered: Feb 17, 2004
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In reply to: If you're talking about giving slack to a second who you are belaying in the autoblock mode, it depends, if their weight is on the rope and they can't get it off then you spend 15 seconds rigging a way to release the lock off
ok, so, is this correct
conclusion:
reverso- same as atc when not in autoblock mode and difficult to feed rope through when weighted in autoblock mode.
atc-xp- great friction and no autoblocking mode.
So if with the reverso its difficult to give slack while on autoblock mode and I am belaying a leader in that mode... Will I have problems lowering him (since the rope is weighted)???
JC
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cfnubbler
Oct 20, 2004, 3:57 PM
Post #35 of 35
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Registered: Oct 31, 2003
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In reply to: So if with the reverso its difficult to give slack while on autoblock mode and I am belaying a leader in that mode... Will I have problems lowering him (since the rope is weighted)???
The autoblock mode works for belaying a second only. It's not an option for belaying a leader. You just use the standard mode for belaying leads.
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