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ropeburn
Oct 19, 2004, 2:25 PM
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Know any exercises to strengthen antagonistic shoulder muscles in regards to climbing?
I'm feeling a slight strain on the anterior muscles right at the joint and am looking for exercises to balance out the whole shoulder.
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overlord
Oct 19, 2004, 2:47 PM
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try strenghtening the muscles as a whole.
most climbers need some pectoral strenghtening, best achieved by benchpress/pushups.
another thing to strenghten is the rotator cuff (???) muscles. these are the small muslcles that "direct" the joint. best achieved by pulling something (like weights rigged with static line over a pulley) in various directions.
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abaran
Oct 19, 2004, 2:57 PM
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I don't know if this will help your specific problem but I've found that the best cardio exercise I've done for my climbing is swimming. Especially if you use fins during kick drills which will help you employ your calves along with your quads.
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climb_463
Oct 19, 2004, 3:06 PM
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http://www.exrx.net/...ExList/ShouldWt.html
This is an URL with a LOT of exercices for the shoulder for the Anterior Deltoid, Lateral Deltoid, Posterior Deltoid and the Supraspinatus.
If you want to build shoulder strength then select one exercice for each specific group muscle and include it in your traning routine.
There is also a lot of stretches for those specific muscles...
Hope it can helps ...
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bandidopeco
Oct 19, 2004, 3:08 PM
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If your a climber, a dumb bell press will almost always be superior to a bench press, and they will both be much better then machine presses. What it comes down to is that dumb bells are less stable then the bench and much less then a machine, so it forces you to use more muscles (stabalizer muscles) then you'd otherwise use. If your a climber this is good, because these are important for climbing, but not so much if you just want to have big cosmetic muscles. I'd suggest a dumb bell press, or a dumbell shoulder press (same thing, just sitting upright).
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treesail
Oct 19, 2004, 3:13 PM
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In the previous, not current, issue of either CLIMBING or ROCK AND ICE (same thing really), in the "tips" section there are two shoulder exercises shown using those giant rubber band things. They'll probably help.
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forkliftdaddy
Oct 19, 2004, 3:40 PM
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Helpful links:
http://familydoctor.org/x1513.xml
http://www.bodyresults.com/E2RotatorCuff.asp
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bandidopeco
Oct 19, 2004, 11:37 PM
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One common mistake when working out the shoulders is to shrug during contraction. This happens because the shoulder is the most mobile joint in the body and needs to be stabalized when in use. When you shrug you're using your upper traps for stabalization which is bad because they attach to your neck. (During college I frequently made this mistake and had to spend a week where i couldn't turn my head before I learned better.) You sholud use your rhomboids (they attach from your scapula to your mid-lower spine) for stabalization. Just think about keeping your shoulder in good posture, and if you can't that means that you are lifting too much weight, so go down.
I hope this is usefull.
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ropeburn
Oct 20, 2004, 1:52 PM
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Good links, just what I was looking for.
Thanks.
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jayson
Oct 20, 2004, 6:43 PM
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http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/exercises.htm
I lift a few times a week (3-5 days) that site is a wonderful resource for any muscle group. and i would highly advise against behind neck exercises they can do way more damage than good for your muscles and joints. From my past i found that even done correctly behind neck exercises damaged MY shoulder joint.
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greyicewater
Oct 20, 2004, 7:24 PM
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pull ups (palm away from you), push ups, sit ups help with the lower back, umm... bench presses... etc
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jayson
Oct 20, 2004, 7:47 PM
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The best exercise i have found the best shoulder gains with has been the arnold press it works a wide range of motion activating more muscle fibers just remember to keep weight on the muscles between reps that way it fatigues your muscles faster and helps them build.
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ropeburn
Oct 20, 2004, 7:51 PM
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I'm not looking to get huge, just to strengthen the muscles supporting the shoulder that aren't greatly used when climbing.
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andy_reagan
Oct 21, 2004, 11:25 AM
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high rep, low-ish weight. Sort of like what you do with the reverse wrist curls after cranking a hard session. I've found its really hard to hypertrophy when you're doing these exercises minimally (2-3 times a week, 2-3 sets) but you will still notice some strength gains and balancing of your body which is of course your goal as a rock climber. I usually shoot for 20 reps in a set. Shoulder flys are good, pushups are GREAT.
One more note, dont underestimate the gains strength training other parts of your body that aren't specifically "climbing muscles" (whatever the hell that is!).
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microbarn
Oct 21, 2004, 2:06 PM
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I had the exact same problem you seem to be explaining. Strengthening the shoulder in general helped get rid of it, but the Lat row was the most effective exercise for helping me. The bench was not helpful at all because it emphasized the wrong side of the shoulder. When you do the Lat row make sure that you are using your stabalizing muscles as they are the ones that are hurting.
For me, this meant that on the machine I used for the lat row, I went way down in weight and made sure to slowly lift the weight while not letting it rest on the guides. (There were guides present allowing me to pull the weight back resting on the guides and eliminate the use of my balancing muscles.) I went from lifting 135 on the lat row down to 65, but my shoulder pain went away.
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bandidopeco
Oct 21, 2004, 2:23 PM
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One common mistake I see posted is that a ton of people will do good stomach routines, but nothing for their lower back. One of your main goals in training should be maintaining balance, and this is a good way to ruin that. If you do a million crunches without anything for your lower back muscles, you'll find that your having a pretty hard time sitting up straight.
Form is always important when training, especially for the lower back. I can't really explain here all that you can do, but ppl have given some good urls to check out. remember, if it hurts while your doing it (hurt, not burn) you're probably doing it wrong.
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jayson
Oct 22, 2004, 2:08 AM
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i had huge shoulder imbalance after i dislocated my shoulder in a skiing accident (the day i noticed 360's dont agree with me). i had 6 months of therapy and couldnt use my shoulder much between that time but i noticed once i got back able to use it again i did a lot of pushups which helped build it up again and now i notice that the arnold press exercise gives me my best workout for shoulders because it works all of the shoulder instead of just one muscle group.
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paulraphael
Oct 26, 2004, 9:00 PM
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If you can find a way to see a physical therapist it will be invaluable.
I was lucky enough (in retrospect) to have a shoulder injury last year .. rotator cuff impingement .. and went to a PT. she measured my range of motion and relative strengths throughout the whole shoulder and arm and back region, and pinpointed muscle imbalances that I never would have known about.
If they hadn't led to the injury I had, they probably would have led to something else ... bad back, elbow problems, or whatever.
But the point is, she was able to prescribe exercises for me that never would have occured to me (and also told me what exercises to avoid, and even what positions to avoid while climbing). Made a huge difference. I doubt anyone can offer that kind of service over the web, and I also dobut a regular trainer is capable of evaluating imbalances like that.
I'll say that a lot of it was counter-intuitive. Some of the rehab exercises she gave me worked the same motion as the exercises I was doing in training before the injury started. So beware of "common sense" approaches.
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perp
Oct 27, 2004, 2:30 PM
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In reply to: If your a climber, a dumb bell press will almost always be superior to a bench press, and they will both be much better then machine presses
What exactly is a dumb bell press?
Also, how much of this weightlifting is needed? Due to some pain in my shoulders I've understodd that strengthening of the antagonizers probably isn't such a bad idea, but I find it really boring, and only do it about three or four times a month. Does this have any effect at all?
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microbarn
Oct 27, 2004, 2:40 PM
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http://www.exrx.net/...al/DBBenchPress.html A good recommendation would be areobic excersizes once a week and lifting 2 times. There are a million different alternatives, but you will find few if any who will say this is a bad thing compared to what you are doing.
As to whether 3-4 times a month is enough, it will vary for each person. If you still are having pains, then no, this isn't enough. Maybe you should do different excersizes as well. For a more complete answer and differing opinions on what is recommended do a forum search. This has been debated 100 times already.
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