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mtengaio
Oct 13, 2004, 4:08 PM
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I know it may sound silly but does anyone have advice on training for ice climbing in a climbing gym? Our local gym is very open to letting us actually bring in our tools and drytooling on our homemade wooden holds we put up.
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overlord
Oct 13, 2004, 4:10 PM
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then use the opportunity. i think its great that they let you do it.
set up some routes etc.
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forkliftdaddy
Oct 20, 2004, 8:37 PM
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will gadd talks about it in his book: Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique. it's a good book. check it out in your local gear store.
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forkliftdaddy
Oct 20, 2004, 8:44 PM
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bit of info here too: http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=213
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angelaa
Oct 21, 2004, 7:17 PM
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One of the best things I have found - I can crank on Ice now!!
Pull-ups on hammer handles!
buy two replacement hammer handles from the hardware store
drill a hole in the top of each - tie some cord through the hole
Clip these 'ice tools' to bolt hangers on your wall with biners
start out doing pull-ups with them equidistant, but for more challenge - stagger them . . .
great workout for the arms, and the body - got to keep from swinging around as much as you can and work that CORE!!!
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jayson
Oct 22, 2004, 2:13 AM
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wow thats such an awesome idea. even if you arnt an ice climber that would be an amazing exercise, thanks.
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mtengaio
Oct 26, 2004, 2:48 PM
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The hammer handles are a good idea! I'm making more wooden holds to bolt onto a steep lead cave we have at our gym – a good angle to practice figure-4's and crazy moves like it. It would be cool to plaster the whole cave with the foam material they sell for indoor ice climbing but that stuff is way too expensive! Oh well, just have to get out more I guess.
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paulraphael
Oct 26, 2004, 8:54 PM
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I do something simpler ... just hang loops from my ceiling, and loop my ice tools through them. mine are 7mm perlon, clipped with old biners to eye bolts. they prussic to themselves so the height is adjustable. you can reinforce the loops if you like, using vinyl tubing from the hardware store or anything else that works. exercises are easy with wrist loops; hard without. but you probably guessed that.
Something that really helps is for swinging endurance, not pulling: with a dumbell in your hand, SLOWLY, like over several seconds, swing overhead as if you're swinging a tool. It helps to be looking in the mirror and focussing on perfect form. do many reps. The idea is to build endurance, and to keep good form even as you're getting tired.
If your technique is good, you won't be pulling yourself up all that much, but no matter what you're going to be swinging those tools all day long. When you get fatigued, the small supporting muscles will give out and your form will fall apart. This means bad swings, which means more swings, which means more tired ... so it's good to get those little supporting muscles conditioned. you can also attach weights to your ice tools, but i'm lazy and just grab a dumbell.
and another vote for Will Gadd's book. One nice thing he does is give different training programs based on different goals. reasonable programs for weekend warriors, brutal full-time ones for championship hopefuls, and a few steps in between.
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angelaa
Oct 26, 2004, 9:06 PM
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one thing my husband reminded me of. . . .
Swing a hammer - attach a board to a wall above your head and swing at a nail (over and over and over) - works those swinging muscles and your hand eye coordination . . .
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chugach001
Oct 26, 2004, 10:33 PM
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Here's what I've done... I made small holds out of plywood blocks and tool around on those plenty. It's good for feel, strength and technique but there is no swinging and pounding.
To get the practice of swinging, I screwed 2x10s boards to the upper border of my walls and slam my picks into that. It works well and gives you the mystery feeling of "will this hold as I shift weight?". Often it doesn't so clear out your landing pad.
CAUTION - put tennis balls over your adze and hammer. I took an adze in the noggin doing this and got one of those profuse bleeding head wounds.
Enjoy,
Jeff
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andy_reagan
Oct 26, 2004, 10:50 PM
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In reply to: one thing my husband reminded me of. . . . Swing a hammer - attach a board to a wall above your head and swing at a nail (over and over and over) - works those swinging muscles and your hand eye coordination . . .
I dont ice climb but this seems like not such a good idea. I would think the stress from the pounding would negate any positive gains in the "swinging muscles." I would think if you are an ice climber your shoulders/elbows/wrists are already sore enough from ice climbing...
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crag
Oct 26, 2004, 10:54 PM
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In reply to: mine are 7mm perlon
Dude you just said perlon...way old school
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crag
Oct 26, 2004, 11:00 PM
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In reply to: I know it may sound silly but does anyone have advice on training for ice climbing in a climbing gym?
Screw the gym, get a job, as a carpenter or a stonemason and you’ll climb harder than you ever expected during the off-season - the work off-season that is. How else are you going to learn how to backhand a knifeblad into manky rock 80’ off the deck sketching away on your monos while putting up a new route at your secret crag/ice climbing area?
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angelaa
Oct 27, 2004, 1:29 PM
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In reply to: I don'tt ice climb but this seems like not such a good idea. I would think the stress from the pounding would negate any positive gains in the "swinging muscles." I would think if you are an ice climber your shoulders/elbows/wrists are already sore enough from ice climbing...
we are discussing TRAINING . . . everyone would rather TRAIN FOR ICE CLIMBING - ON ICE but it is not a possibility for everyone, so training other ways is necessary.
My husband is a framer, and his swing is pretty darn good & accurate on ice . . . and it is all thanks to being able to accurately swing a hammer. . . which only comes with practice.
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anykineclimb
Oct 27, 2004, 2:56 PM
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In reply to: CAUTION - put tennis balls over your adze and hammer. I took an adze in the noggin doing this and got one of those profuse bleeding head wounds. Enjoy, Jeff
OUCH!! :shock:
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crag
Oct 27, 2004, 4:38 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: CAUTION - put tennis balls over your adze and hammer. I took an adze in the noggin doing this and got one of those profuse bleeding head wounds. Enjoy, Jeff OUCH!! :shock:
If your Adze is of a modular design then remove it. Most mixed climbers climb sans Adze. All modern funky mixed tools are hammer only if that.
Stiches and scars on the face are way cool. Happy Halloween!
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